Hi...newbie to the Ford world, newbie to here...many thanks for any help...it's a good truck, just bought, needs some tlc..?

1994 F-250 2wd

The area of my questions:


What's going on here and how concerned should I be


Here's the passenger side, no shims falling out no big nut



Also the strut shown in the first pic...this nut is not down tight but appears rusted and not going to move without a lot of effort...the cupped washer bounces around, rings like a bell...

do I have issues?

 

I don't have any manuals on this thing...

I'm gonna guess the big nut on that outstretched arm is an adjusting nut but somehow needed a shim?....is that some type of alignment adjustment ?

I know **** about that^^^^

As far as the strut goes, when I drive over bumps I hear a ringing of a small bell..I'm sure it's the cupped washer "holding" the strut...meaning the base of the strut is free to move??....so to tighten it I need some long *** extension and need to remove the plastic wheel well??

I installed new rotors and bearings today...got rid of the shakes and the loud hum at 45-50mph....I ain't totally useless...work with me here :-)

 

Hope this helps. Plus, that "Bump" you hear, is the Radius Arm clanking around (Aka wearing the F out)

 

Thanks for the help SideWinder

Are you saying the drivers side radius arm should look just like the passenger side radius arm??

I can make the cupped washer at the base of the strut ring like a bell just like the noise I hear when I'm driving but I can see what you're saying seeing how it's connected to the radius arm.... do I need a long extension to tighten that nut, approaching it from above thus needing to move the plastic wheel well cover or is there another way...

or am I missing the real issue?

thanks

 

Replace radius arm bushings on both sides.

You may need someone with experience in the job. Grinding, torching, cutting or bashing those rivets out of the drop bracket can be a pain and time consuming.

1980-96 Ford Truck/bronco - Bushings/polyurethane - Radius Arm & Axle Pivots 2wd

 

The hex shaped bushing in your driver's side radius arm is an aftermarket part that was added (poorly I might add) at some point. They're supposed to aid in adjustment of caster in an alignment. As mentioned above, replace radius arm bushings on both sides.

 

just a thanks for the link and all the help guys..

and a dumb question...is the cupped washer under the big nut at base of strut actually helping to hold the strut or is it really just securing the radius arm in place or both.. and I suppose there's a bushing there too or nylon insert?

I know..I should prob get an exploded diagram from a manual...

Yesterday I mentioned to a kid about me (potentially) doing work on my radius arms .... he told me to think about getting a come along or two to hold the axles..apparently when he did his on his bronco, not knowing what he was getting into, the axle violently shot towards him under the car after freeing the radius arm....glad he said something....I'm guessing the strut tension was the issue with that...he seemed to agree...

I'd like to avoid one of those "hold my beer moments"... :-)

 

There is some tension on them, yeah. What I did was LOOSELY install the axle pivot bolt (had these out on both axle halves to replace the pivot bushings) and also loosely put the radius arm bracket on the end of the radius arm, without the nut or outer bushing, cup, etc. I just put all the hardware on the end of the radius arm up to and including the bracket itself, but nothing else. Then I used a jack to raise the radius arm into position, got the bracket secured to the frame, then finished installing the other bushing half and hardware. Went over the entire front end and tightened everything up, and that was it. Oh and of course I had the front spring hangers, shocks, swaybar, calipers, and whatever else unbolted too, to free the axle up.

The driver's side radius arm bracket is riveted to the frame so you'll need a way to get the rivets out. Not fun but not hard either. Grinder, punch, BFH (big f'n hammer) will do it. When I reinstalled mine, I used new Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers.

The pax side is held onto the frame with nuts. No cutting or grinding needed here, just some PB Blaster and patience (because the stupid cat will be in your way).

When I put mine back together, I used silver anti-seize on everything, as always.

 

My first opportunity to contribute here / give back....use the air compressor to send that cat....

thanks for the info...I'm taking this all in