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Well my truck finally threw its first CEL, and I pulled up 3 codes.
P0404 -
P1335 - both related to EGR valve
P0528 - fan speed sensor (likely the fan clutch needs to be replaced)
I've done my research on both of these issues but I'm wondering how urgent it is to replace these things? To be honest I don't really need the fan since I don't plan on towing any time soon (the fan still works btw I guess the PCM just can't read it). And as for the EGR, how soon do I need to take care of that? Is it worth trying to clean or should I just buy a new valve?
I take care of my truck and plan on fixing these things, its just not convenient with how busy I am these next few weeks.
You Never Know when you get stuck on the freeway for a wreck Driving slow or something like that and OverHeat Since there wouldn't be much Airflow over the radiator in stop-N-Go traffic
The Fan always Runs on these
Its hard to say How things are affected With this DTC P0528
P0528 FSS Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
Possible causes are--Mechanical fault, short to voltage, open circuit, short to ground
Check the wires Where they Jump across from Engine to Fan Shroud for chaffe
X2 on the cleaning, and clear the codes at least you will know if the EGR is good or needs to be replaced, before you get down the Highway and something goes down,I'm a firm Beliver of fixing DTCs.
That's true... Stop n go traffic really heats things up. I can see 190-194 putzing on the highway, but downtown rush hour, sitting at multiple stop lights it heats up to 200 in no time. Especially with the a/c on and the fan is commanded on more/sooner with the a/c on.
So to update, all the wires looked fine. The fan is still coming on, quite often actually. It stayed on for my entire drive home from work (it was 100 degrees outside and I had the a/c on) except for when I was above 50 mph. It seems like the fan is working fine, so I don't know why I have this code. I'm hesitant to buy a new clutch for $300+
As for the EGR valve, I tried several of the tips I've read online and can't get it out. Its "stucker then hell" as my redneck friends would say.
the EGR valve will twist counter clock wise use two small pry bars under the screw inlets and pry up or use wire thru the screw holes for a handle it will go , just make sure when putting it back, lube the new o-rings and press press down .you can click on my albums those are the pry bars that work pretty good
I disagree with cleaning the EGR valve just by virtue of P1335 alone. That code sets is if your EGR VP volts reading is greater than 0.95 volts at KOEO, which is almost always a completely gunked up valve stuck wide open. In my experience when they're gunked up that bad, even cleaning it up won't get the valve position sensor to indicate the correct voltage readings. On that note, I would just outright replace the valve.
I disagree with cleaning the EGR valve just by virtue of P1335 alone. That code sets is if your EGR VP volts reading is greater than 0.95 volts at KOEO, which is almost always a completely gunked up valve stuck wide open. In my experience when they're gunked up that bad, even cleaning it up won't get the valve position sensor to indicate the correct voltage readings. On that note, I would just outright replace the valve.
In my experience, cleaning EGR valves has yielded a 50% success rate at repair, provided one of the EGR related DTCs is NOT P1335 specifically.
As for P0528, all that means is your PCM can't read FAN SS (which is fan RPM). The fan itself probably still works. The reason it's on more often now, is because of the missing FAN SS input to the PCM, so it defaults to higher FAN VAR % duty cycles to prevent an overheat situation.
Thanks M-chan for the chime in your evaluation is well advised to this situation, and we thank you . the EGR will be sooted make sure the pinon shaft slides and clean in between the two , not on the electrical side, check the Intake side sensers. post the values before and after.If hard to pull then sooted.vaccume port well.( get the IAT2 senser) and post.