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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

temp gauge problem

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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 10:28 PM
  #16  
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ALBUQ F-1
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From: NM
The CVR is in the wire from the ignition switch to all the gauges. It reduces the voltage to all gauges (not idiot lights). Not sure what gauges are in a '60. Since your 60 was originally 12v, replacing the generator with an alternator makes no difference, you need a CVR.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 04:32 AM
  #17  
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CVR?

Bought new a 50 F6; on or about late 50s eary 60s my father put a late 50s
Ford 12v 40 amp gen & reg reversed the ampmeter loop (for neg ground) and
this is 2013 with no CVR , guess he didnt know about that. So all gauges
still working, whats up with that??

And then most either do not know or dont care, but when replacing engines
like putting a 302 in a flathead you must use senders from the former engine
(flathead) to be put on the 302.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 09:10 AM
  #18  
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Big Job, I've heard similar stories. The gauges will sometimes work fine for years without a CVR. Other people hook up direct to 12v and see smoke almost immediately. One of those mysteries...
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 11:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Big Job, I've heard similar stories. The gauges will sometimes work fine for years without a CVR. Other people hook up direct to 12v and see smoke almost immediately. One of those mysteries...

Is there a test procedure for the CVR? Check voltage in/out, OHM parameter between posts with wires disconnected.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 12:24 PM
  #20  
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It works like a turn signal flasher. Resistance thru the heating element should be a kilo-ohm, I'd guess, can't say. The case absolutely needs to be grounded for the CVR to work. On a cold (no load) CVR, you should get very low resistance from input to the output (contacts closed).
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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.....On a cold (no load) CVR, you should get very low resistance from input to the output (contacts closed).[/quote]

Thanks for the info.
 
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