temp gauge problem
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New User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Tucson, Az
temp gauge problem
I have a 1960 F100 that someone transplanted with a 1957 312 Yblock. The truck has an aftermarket gauge set and the standard dash gauges/idiot lights.
My problem is in the temp gauges. The aftermarket gauge reads a safe temp + - 180. The location of the sensor for the aftermarket is near the #8 cylinder intake. The dash gauge pegs the hot line in about 10 to 15 minutes of drive time. That sensor is located on driver side block just above oil sending unit.
I have used an infrared temp probe (laser) and get basically the same readings as the gauges, respectively.
Could I be reading oil temp on the dash guage or do I have a water flow restriction in the lower part of the motor?
My problem is in the temp gauges. The aftermarket gauge reads a safe temp + - 180. The location of the sensor for the aftermarket is near the #8 cylinder intake. The dash gauge pegs the hot line in about 10 to 15 minutes of drive time. That sensor is located on driver side block just above oil sending unit.
I have used an infrared temp probe (laser) and get basically the same readings as the gauges, respectively.
Could I be reading oil temp on the dash guage or do I have a water flow restriction in the lower part of the motor?
5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 48
Likes: 4
I would verify that the sending unit to the stock gauge is matched to the gauge. Had a similar issue where a modern sending unit was sending a false read to the gauge. The infrared was telling me otherwise. Once I got the correct sending unit for older gauges everything checked out.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Tucson, Az
I would verify that the sending unit to the stock gauge is matched to the gauge. Had a similar issue where a modern sending unit was sending a false read to the gauge. The infrared was telling me otherwise. Once I got the correct sending unit for older gauges everything checked out.
Posting Guru
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I think you're saying that both the infrared and old sensor/gauge tell you that one head/side of block (left?) is hot. Best figure out why. If you trust that the new sensor/gauge are reasonably accurate, which is a fair assumption, then you may temporarily move it to the suspect hole and triple-check its temperature. I would figure it out for sure prior to running it much more.
My 2c
My 2c
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Tucson, Az
temp problem
I think you're saying that both the infrared and old sensor/gauge tell you that one head/side of block (left?) is hot. Best figure out why. If you trust that the new sensor/gauge are reasonably accurate, which is a fair assumption, then you may temporarily move it to the suspect hole and triple-check its temperature. I would figure it out for sure prior to running it much more.
My 2c
My 2c
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From: Tucson, Az
temp problem
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If what you're saying is that it won't burn anything up, then that is possibly correct. However, the old gauges/sending units worked off of a thermal switch mechanism. Their sending units were not a temperature-coefficient-dependent resistance like many, if not most, newer ones are. So, the odds that you'll get a correct reading may be rather slim.
Last edited by The Horvaths; Jun 19, 2013 at 01:41 AM. Reason: Typo - chell specker.
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Fleet Owner
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From: NM
As I recall, somewhere after 56 Ford went back to 6v gauges with the CVR to reduce 12v to 6v. The '60 truck would certainly have a CVR (or should). Maybe the PO got rid of it? If it were missing that would explain the bogus reading.
Y-blocks don't have separate cooling systems for each bank like a flathead V8, do they? There's only one water pump. The lower part of the engine (block) gets water first and runs the coolest.
Stock gauges are not to be trusted even when new. Now they've been mix'd and matched so who knows what you've got? You could buy a new sender for a '60 F-100 and try that, after verifying the CVR is there.
Y-blocks don't have separate cooling systems for each bank like a flathead V8, do they? There's only one water pump. The lower part of the engine (block) gets water first and runs the coolest.
Stock gauges are not to be trusted even when new. Now they've been mix'd and matched so who knows what you've got? You could buy a new sender for a '60 F-100 and try that, after verifying the CVR is there.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: near dallas
I can't quite make out what your original post says, one gauge ok the other hot and laser agrees with the gauges respectively? or something. if the laser says it is over hot, it probably is. I'm not sure where best to measure a y block. only just learning my chops on a flatty.
bill
bill
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From: Tucson, Az
temp problem
Thanks for the info, please excuse my ignorance but what do the letters CVR mean?
Last edited by gjwniflst; Jun 21, 2013 at 12:03 AM. Reason: spelling error