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Replacing vacuum pump & booster?

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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 01:20 PM
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Replacing vacuum pump & booster?

Anything special about doing this or is it straight forward?

I'm literally just throwing parts at my truck til the brake pedal is fixed so I ordered a new OEM booster and Dorman vacuum pump.

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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personally, i would suggest diagnosing before throwing parts at it. i've killed a few vacuum pumps, but have yet to kill a booster. connect a vacuum gage to the line from the pump and see how it responds. then also try it connected into the vacuum tree and see how it responds there. a small vacuum leak can really throw things off.

for the vacuum pump, unbolt it from the top, then drop it out the bottom. booster should be like any other - dismount MC and slide it forward, disconnect pushrod from pedal, and unbolt from firewall.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:23 PM
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I have diagnosed it. And nothing works. Here's my thread

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...revisited.html
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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probably the vacuum pump if NOTHING vacuum related works. Usually the only time the booster goes is when the master cylinder is leaking, and therefore should be replaced as well. Just did the booster / master in my 92 took be about an hour. The vacuum pump is easy too, just need a puller to get the pulley off.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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Master is new also.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
The vacuum pump is easy too, just need a puller to get the pulley off.
and not just any puller. has to be the kind made just for power steering pulleys and such, and may have to be customized to fit. my local parts store has the one i customized, and i use it every time i kill a pump.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by garrettsr5
I have diagnosed it. And nothing works.




Sorry, but that's funny. That's the kind of thing I expect from a dealer.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
so did you end up bypassing the RABS?
i did all this too,and the only way i got real brakes was the hydroboost swap.the vac just lacked the nuts required.the pump was the only thing not replaced.maybe that would have helped,but the brake fade/sponge during a panic stop when loaded was so far from safe,i called uncle and went directly to hydro.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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I did bypass the RABS and it didn't help.
It just feels like there is air in the system. If I pump the pedal it gets good.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by garrettsr5
If I pump the pedal it gets good.
Textbook inadaquate bench bleeding...
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 05:05 PM
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if you have air in the system, nothing you do on the vacuum end of things will affect that.

if the vacuum system fails, you'll have a hard pedal and have to push hard to stop

the first time you push the pedal, the vacuum system has full power, and little pedal effort is required. pumping the pedal bleeds off much of the vacuum pressure, resulting in the brake booster doing less of what its made to do. this results in a firmer pedal only because you have less vacuum pressure. this is just the nature of the system.

try pumping the brakes several times with the engine off to bleed off vacuum pressure, then letting it sit for a minute, then seeing how the brakes feel. if everything is right, you'll have a hard pedal. if theres air in the hydraulic system, you'll have that soft pedal that builds up as you pump.

as it is, i don't think you'll gain anything by just throwing parts at it
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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10mm for the vacuum pump bolts, BTW. And for their size they are tight.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
10mm for the vacuum pump bolts, BTW. And for their size they are tight.
Yes, yes they are.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
Textbook inadaquate bench bleeding...
I would agree. Except the pedal feel did not change at all with the new master.


Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
if you have air in the system, nothing you do on the vacuum end of things will affect that.

if the vacuum system fails, you'll have a hard pedal and have to push hard to stop

the first time you push the pedal, the vacuum system has full power, and little pedal effort is required. pumping the pedal bleeds off much of the vacuum pressure, resulting in the brake booster doing less of what its made to do. this results in a firmer pedal only because you have less vacuum pressure. this is just the nature of the system.

try pumping the brakes several times with the engine off to bleed off vacuum pressure, then letting it sit for a minute, then seeing how the brakes feel. if everything is right, you'll have a hard pedal. if theres air in the hydraulic system, you'll have that soft pedal that builds up as you pump.

as it is, i don't think you'll gain anything by just throwing parts at it
Truck's been parked for 3 hours. I just went out and hit the pedal with the truck off.
First push on the pedal it goes to the floor. Next 3 times it gets less soft and eventually hard.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 01:03 PM
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Waited one minute and did it again. Same exact thing.
First push on the pedal it goes to the floor. Second push it's less soft. Third push it's hard.
 
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