I posted this in the thread below, but bc it has developed into a different subject i wanted to start a new thread. I just put new head gaskets and intake gaskets on and while my 51 239 flathead was disassembled I made sure the dizzy was in time. It wasn't, so I got it in time now. Started it this morning, ran rough. Back firing through exhaust, poor idle, and blue smoke. After it ran 15/20min the back firing got better and the smoke went away. Now it


I wanted to say fuel system... Timing is set, that part is for sure. As I posted earlier, I was unable to get it to idle. So I figured the power valve popped. Removed carb and as expected, there was fuel in the base and on the gasket. So I swapped the power valve for a block off, to try and avoid this continuing until it runs for a while longer (clean it out & set idle)...

Well now it barely starts. Pump the throttle, fires runs very smooth for about 10-15 sec then dies off. Sprayed ether in the carb, to help isolate the issue, but it didn't fire... Really spinning my wheels here.

Carb is new, checked for any debris seems clean.

Going to check fire at points, and double check button position at TDC, and make sure plugs didnt fowl when power valve went.

Fuel pump is new, and feeding from a gas can that is clean and well vented... Could fuel pressure be an issue? It feels a little like it's starved for fuel.

Thanks for the help guys, clearly i really need it.

P.S. I am the reason the dizzy was out of time, carelessness.

 

Ok, update. After everything I've done, I'm back where I was. I pump the throttle once, choke open, and it fires, idles smooth for about 15-20 seconds, then dies. If I try to open the throttle up it sputters and dies almost instantly. Fuel is pumping good from pump and I double checked the float levels 1 11/32 needle closed & 1 3/4 needle open...

Hope you guys can help, I really don't want to give up.

 

I'm no expert but I usually have to close my choke to start and don't open it till she warms up a bit. you said "I pump the throttle once, choke open" has me confused a little. , you are getting close. don't quit now.

bill

 

When the truck ran before, I also used the choke until motor became warm. But it will not start that way now. If I choke the carb when spinning the motor, the motor shakes a bit. Like it's flooding the engine. But if I twist the throttle once or twice, and leave the choke open, it will fire right up... Just dies shortly after.
And I did blow through the idle ports on the base of the carb. I won't swear there isn't any trash in it, but I've tried my best to make sure it's all clean.

 

routine checks have you got the firing order correct
adjusted the idle mix screws (screw in till the just bottom (be careful don't damage ends) then back em out 1 1/4 turns or so for starters
sorry I don't remember your initial post. so I don't know what all you've done

backfires are concerning (check firing order again) I've had bad head gasket allow crossfiring between jugs.

cap wires rotors new?

a list of things to check from uncle henry at the ford barn...
Fuel problems could be caused by:

1. Not enough fuel in the gas tank. (Spent two hours troubleshooting to find this one once.)
2. Bad fuel.
3. A fuel line plugged up. (Rare but I've heard of it.)
4. Fuel pump not pumping fuel.
5. Fuel filter plugged.
6. Carburetor malfunctioning (needle valve bad, float needs adjustment, accelerator pump bad, etc.)

That's it. Not much of a list of possible failures.

On the other hand, any one of the following ignition components can fail and stop spark:

1. Battery too low to create spark.
2. Battery post connection loose or corroded.
3. Wiring from battery to ignition switch bad.
4. Connections to ignition switch bad.
5. Ignition switch bad.
6. Wire from ignition switch to resistor bad.
7. Connections to resistor bad.
8. Resistor bad.
9. Wire from resistor to coil bad.
10. Connections to coil bad.
11. Coil bad.
12. Wire from coil to distributor bad.
13. Connections to distributor bad.
14. Connection to condenser bad.
15. Condenser bad.
16. Internal connections to points bad.
17. Distributor bad. (Timing off, worn shaft, bushings, advance mechanism, vacuum brake, etc.)
18. Points bad.
19. Connection of high tension wire from coil bad.
20. High tension coil wire bad.
21. Connections of coil wire or spark plug wires in distributor cap bad.
22. Rotor bad.
23. Distributor cap bad.
24. Spark plug wire bad.
25. Connection to spark plug bad.
26. Spark plug bad.

 

I've got spark at the plugs, tho I intend to check all 8 again, just for good measure. Along with all of your suggestions, any help is appreciated help!

 

It has been a long time, but I had condensers go bad in both a Landcruiser and Ford 429. Wouldn't idle and backfired both through the exhaust and carb.

Good luck with it.

 

Is there anyway to check the condenser for fault? I know they are cheap at napa... I just have a few here and I'm not real sure they are bad

 

Do you have a good digital multi-meter? Some have a capacitance test mode. If not, you can get an idea of whether it works or not by looking at the points. If they are burned or pitted the capacitor has probably failed.

 

Try changing the plugs. I use autolite 216s. I had my 51 do the same crap. Plugs wouldnt fire under compression. (I think it was a lot of starting and shutting off) New plugs helped me a lot. Wires crossed?? Check em. Check the timing one more time. Every time That im sure Ive got one thing right, thats the problem. vacuum advance? explain the dying when stepping on the gas. check your compression also.

Im not saying this is whats wrong with yours, but this is what i ran through on my 51. Good luck

 

Checking condenser today, and then running down the list I've been given. I'll update this evening, thanks so much guys!

 

Not sure if this may have caused any issue but thought I'd add this. I realized yesterday that the engine block was not grounded to the body. So now there are two ground cables, 1 to the neg side of the battery and one to the firewall

 

[QUOTE=bk53;13246713]
6. Wire from ignition switch to resistor bad.
7. Connections to resistor bad.
8. Resistor bad.
9. Wire from resistor to coil bad.

I have the resistor between the coil and the points... Should I correct this?

 

The resistor goes between the ignition switch and the coil.

Dan

 

Ok, checked wires, got new 12V condenser from napa, checked point gap (suggested that i open from .015 to .017 by the PO that built the truck), checked fuel supply & pump, going to try after I swap the resistor to the correct position.