Starting problems... Still
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Senior User
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Ok now I've got nothing... Thinking I may have fowled the plugs, tho they do still have a bright white spark. They do smell like gas, not wet tho.
Rechecked timing. @TDC, Button is pointed straight down at #1 on cap with points fully open.
I know this is all difficult doing it via forum because of so many variables, but I do appreciate the time and help.
Rechecked timing. @TDC, Button is pointed straight down at #1 on cap with points fully open.
I know this is all difficult doing it via forum because of so many variables, but I do appreciate the time and help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
OK...just to make sure...when you set up the timing, is the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke?
I don't want to sound overbearing, but I really don't know much about your knowledge level.
Also, your timing should be set so that the points just open when the engine is a couple of degrees before Top Dead Center (TDC).
Dan
I don't want to sound overbearing, but I really don't know much about your knowledge level.
Also, your timing should be set so that the points just open when the engine is a couple of degrees before Top Dead Center (TDC).
Dan
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
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From: NM
I've seen it asked several times, but never answered: have you checked the firing order? And what plug wiring diagram did you use? There are a couple out there, either will work, but they are sometimes a cause for confusion.
It's very easy to take the dizzy out and spin the rotor 180 deg., to see if you are on the compression stroke. If you have a timing light, hook it up and watch the pointer as you crank to see if you are on the right tooth but need to rotate the dizzy to get right on.
It's very easy to take the dizzy out and spin the rotor 180 deg., to see if you are on the compression stroke. If you have a timing light, hook it up and watch the pointer as you crank to see if you are on the right tooth but need to rotate the dizzy to get right on.
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Haha yes I understand your lack of trust, no worries. I do have it set on the compression stroke (little wad of paper in the spark plug hole compression tested). I also marked the crank pulley when the piston got to the top of the compression stroke and just before it starts the power stroke, before I put the heads and intake back on.
So do I need the points just beginning to open as the piston reaches TDC? Or before that? (Hard for me to judge degrees)
So do I need the points just beginning to open as the piston reaches TDC? Or before that? (Hard for me to judge degrees)
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Dizzy firing order;
#1 wire (bottom of cap is marked #1, @6 o'clock) to #1 cylinder (front right cylinder, by coil/dizzy) then in clockwise order 15486372. Cylinders numbered 1234 right side then 5678 on left. #8 being the back left cylinder, just under the oil filter.
#1 wire (bottom of cap is marked #1, @6 o'clock) to #1 cylinder (front right cylinder, by coil/dizzy) then in clockwise order 15486372. Cylinders numbered 1234 right side then 5678 on left. #8 being the back left cylinder, just under the oil filter.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
You're using the other wiring diagram, which is fine. And you've got the order right.
Yes, the points should just open whe the "bump" on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer. Try the timing light.
Yes, the points should just open whe the "bump" on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer. Try the timing light.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2012
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After I've rebuilt one, I set timing by turning crank forward to #1 TDC, compression stroke. Then I put timing light on #1 wire with its plug pullud and grounded at the threads. Then temporarily turn on ignition and rotate distributor (so that the rotor moves effectively backwards in relation to normal) until I see the timing light strobe. Then go almost another smidge or so with the distributor body. Then I temporarily lock down the distributor, knowing that it's within a hair of a couple of degrees advanced. That has alway gotten me close enough to start right off - after returning any vacationing spark plugs to their homes!
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The link you added ALBUQ-F1 is the one I've used for a while haha super simple. I'll try the timing light to make sure. My local 51 ford expert friend is going to come over and go thro it w me.
I'm also getting a set of replacement autolite 216's tomorrow to have incase the current ones are bad (probly are)
THANKS FOR STICKING WITH ME!! Haha so thankful guys!
I'm also getting a set of replacement autolite 216's tomorrow to have incase the current ones are bad (probly are)
THANKS FOR STICKING WITH ME!! Haha so thankful guys!
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Got it running! Needs to be fine tuned and "cleaned out" but it runs! Sat here from 4am-5pm yesterday working at it. Put a new napa IC14SB coil with an internal resistor and a new set of plugs in it after I decided the timing and carb were all good. Fires right up now.
I'm rebuilding the fan now and I have to find a radiator, bc this one is shot.
Also wanted to install a fuel pressure regulator, any suggestions on the best one? Also what about a good place for a radiator?
Thanks so much for all your help!
I'm rebuilding the fan now and I have to find a radiator, bc this one is shot.
Also wanted to install a fuel pressure regulator, any suggestions on the best one? Also what about a good place for a radiator?
Thanks so much for all your help!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
Good deal!
Just to make sure...did you remove that ballast resistor since your new coil has one inside?
For the radiator, I'd start with a local radiator shop to see if they'll clean yours out and re-solder the tanks. A good stock brass radiator is expensive. You could contact Superior Radiator in Michigan...they make welded aluminum radiators in the $300 price range. Theirs are two of the inch wide rows, so the cooling is similar to a 4 row brass radiator. I haven't seen any from them with two hose fittings on the top, but I'm sure that they can make whatever you need.
I would check Summit Racing for a fuel pressure regulator.
Dan
Just to make sure...did you remove that ballast resistor since your new coil has one inside?
For the radiator, I'd start with a local radiator shop to see if they'll clean yours out and re-solder the tanks. A good stock brass radiator is expensive. You could contact Superior Radiator in Michigan...they make welded aluminum radiators in the $300 price range. Theirs are two of the inch wide rows, so the cooling is similar to a 4 row brass radiator. I haven't seen any from them with two hose fittings on the top, but I'm sure that they can make whatever you need.
I would check Summit Racing for a fuel pressure regulator.
Dan
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Great! I'm a amazon junky so that works great haha! Also one other question my books can't answer. There is a flap on the bottom rear of my generator, is this an oiling point? After the fan learning experience, I don't care for another. The gen has always had a slight whinning sound and I don't want the bearings to go dry if there's something I can do.
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Dan, I did remove the resistor when installing new coil. The resistor was/is still good. I just wanted to eliminate the extra wire/components in the ignition.
And this radiator has been to the shop twice and I was told "if it leaks again, just toss it" haha
And this radiator has been to the shop twice and I was told "if it leaks again, just toss it" haha
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
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From: W. Central FL.
Oil cup were common for the back end bushing. That is probably what you have.