Was running fine, started to run a little and I mean a little rough not even enough to get attention. Stopped for 15 minutes and would not start. Was cranking fine but not fire . I could not reach ICP due to 03 6.0 but after sitting for 20 minutes it started but ran with no power. Make it 4 miles and stalled and would not start. This was sat. Towed to local none dealer mechanic and was able to get ICP this am And put in. Due to code of low pressure. Mechanic called and said still won't start. Code is cyl 3 and low pressure. Sorry I don't have codes due to mechanic cleared them.


Any ideas? I remember when I was stopped the first time it was 5 codes. 2 mis Balance codes. 2 for low cranking pressure or something like that. And one that was unknown. Yes said unknown code. Sorry I did not write down before I took to mechanic.

 

checked google history and one code was p2290 this is why we did ICP. Checked Fuel pressure and is 65 PSI ICP pressure is 3400 but still wont crank.

 

ICP pressure at crank is 3400 PSI. Volts for FICM is 48 at key on and crank, and hear injector buzz. Talked to Ed at Ficmrepair.com and he said ICP only needs 500 PSI to crank and should not be 3400. IPR could be bad and cause too much pressure.

 

When the mechanic replaced the ICP sensor did he make note of any oil on the electrical connection? It is possible if the connection to the ICP is bad and giving a false high reading on the ICP it could cause the IPR to stay open. If the old ICP was leaking oil into the electrical connection the pigtail needs to be replaced as the oil breaks down the wiring insulation.

 

He did not change the pig tail but Ed with FCIMrepair.com (by the way is the nicest guy around. I called him and he spent half hour on phone with me helping with Ideas and troubleshooting tips. THANKS ED) so when I drive 45 minutest to Lynchburg VA to Ford dealer to get IPR tonight I also bought a pig tail. We are going to change pigtail and IPR in the AM and hope this is the issue.

I did ask about oil on the ICP when he changed it and he said it was not wet. But Ed and I also think that 3400 PSI is just not possible at idle let alone just cranking so must be false reading. 100K on truck to at least good the ICP $160, pigtail $25, IPR $215 are changed as that should at least help with future failures.

Let hope this does it and I can get hope to my family. Just wish it was my 7.3 that was broke down so all these parts could be done on side of road. But nope has to be the 03 6.0 so have to pull everything to get to them. Thanks Ford Engineering!

 

I think you need to thank technology and the EPA. The other two aren't fairing any better.

 

ya no way to get 3400psi cranking.
and yes Ed is good people

 

OK help, so IPR changed and Harness for ICP and now showing 10K Yes 10,000 PSI on ICP on crank and still wont start. Not sure where to even go from here.
Anyone? Please? Anyone know a ford diesel Mechanic in Virginia near Appomattox or Lynchburg VA?

 

Do you have any codes now? After reading your first post it seems like the truck died slowly. This seems like a wire being grounded or opened up. Maybe check for wire chaffing.

If you think the PCM is acting up you can disconnect the batteries and turn on the headlights for a half hour or more.


.

 

sound like you got the icp pig tail possibly wired wrong. unplug it and see if it starts.
prior to doing so however what is icpv @koeo?

 

Disconnect ICP and reading should default to 500+ during crank. If it still reads way high check wiring to plug at PCM with an ohm meter to verify continuity and not shorted. Also verify VRef (+5 dc) is present at ICP plug.
Wires go to PCM beside driver side battery. Wire colors and tracer stripe will be the same at ICP and PCM ends.

This may help a little: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...7&d=1340424187

Also it's possible to check the ICP with a meter like this (see below for voltage/pressure values):

Determining if the ICP sensor is seeing 500 psig minimum (see post #23 in link below):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/86...not-start.html
If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start. The fitting needed for this is the same as that for the fuel pressure test port.
Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.82 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.


Press Press Sensor
(PSI) (MPA) Voltage
0 0 .02v
200 1.5 .4v
400 3 0.73v
600 4 .96v
800 5.5 1.2v
1000 7 1.4v
1200 8 1.6v
1400 9.7 1.9v
1600 11 2.1v
1800 12.4 2.3v
2000 13.8 2.6v
2200 15.2 2.8v
2400 16.5 3v
2600 18 3.3v
2800 19.3 3.5v
3000 20.6 3.8v

 

Any luck?..

 

OK sorry for no reply lately, VERY limited Internet in VA. This is where we are.

after changing ICP, and harness, Still no start
Changed the IPR and still no start,
Called and talked to a couple ford Guys and one that works on them a lot thought the Oring at the end of the J tube that comes off the high pressure oil pump. Or blew a o ring on a injector.

So called another Ford guy that was recommenced to me. He felt the same way but showed us how to make a tool out of a air fitting to remove the pass valve cover and pull the plug on the oil rail. When we pressurized it there was no air at any injectors. But a lot of oil coming back through the oil filter. He said that was a bad high pressure oil pump.

So bought a pump and J tube with new Oring to be safe. Pulled everything down to get to it and changed the Pump and J tube. After putting her all back together and cranking for a long time (think due to all the oil removed from everything she stated we test drove and she ran fine. In the mean time I was talking to Ed and FICMrepair and he expressed AIR me a replacement just to be safe. Well after the test drive we stopped and tried to start her again and she would not. CRAP.

We then swapped out the FICM and she started up again, turned right off and started again. Cool thought that was it. Paid the Mechanic that was helping be for 4 days (32 hours) ouch, parts were 1200, OUCH, and drove her to my buddies place and parked her. tried to start her and would crank and no start. Let her sit for a hour and she started right up. SO LOST FOR WORDS at this point.

Not throwing codes at this point.......
Let cool for 5 hours last night and went to start her and NO start. sat with key on for a couple minutes while I banged my head on window and pulled my hair out. Tired to start again and she cracked right up.

So I have no clue.. Anyone? Anything? Please? I have been in VA for a week now and need to get home...

She seems to run ok when started but can not figure out the no start then start issue.

I know 6.0 dont have CPS issues like my 7.3 but I have one and for some reason in the back of my head I keep thinking I need to also change this.
Jonathan

 

Enough of the BS'ing around throwing expensive parts at this thing. What you need to get your hands on is an IDS (or equivalent scan tool that has identical capabilities). How you're going to manage this is beyond me, but it's what you NEED TO do at this point. Monitor the usual relevant data pertaining this engine (SYNC, FICM_SYNC, IPR %, RPM, FICM_M, FUEL_PW, ICP volts, ICP psi and ICP desired) WHEN IT FAILS TO START.

From the data above, focus on the one that's outside of the acceptable parameters needed to achieve a running engine and concentrate your efforts there.

 

The 03's are pretty bad about engine wiring harness issues, but I would recommend that you get it to someone with the proper diagnostic equipment and experience on the 6.0l to get it fixed right.