ignition control module interchange??
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Elder User
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ignition control module interchange??
The ICM on my 74 F100 just melted down. Completely toast. Does anyone know if the one on my 77 F-150 (6.6L) would work in a pinch. Aftermarket parts places are saying no, but just wondering.
thx.
thx.
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These things need space between their belly and wherever they are mounted...
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From: Big Sky Country
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D4AZ-12A199-C
Green Sales in OH. has (34)
Collectors Auto Supply in WA. has (1)
Haven Ford in KS. has (2)
Klimesh Motor Sales in IA. has (2)
Bob Allen Ford in KS. has (3)
Freese Motor Inc in IA. has (1)
Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY. has (1)
Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC. has (2)
Green Sales in OH. has (34)
Collectors Auto Supply in WA. has (1)
Haven Ford in KS. has (2)
Klimesh Motor Sales in IA. has (2)
Bob Allen Ford in KS. has (3)
Freese Motor Inc in IA. has (1)
Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY. has (1)
Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC. has (2)
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Big Sky Country
I know. But these guys go with almost full retail pricing, which, for something that has sat around for so long, just doesn't seem right. Decided to go with a BWD Select - part # CBE2. I really wanted the Ford part, but for electronics and old ones at that, with little/no warranty, and the price, too much was going against it.
The modules electronics are encased in epoxy so degradation is really of no concern, I've been stranded one too many times by off-brand modules taking a dump at the most inopportune time/place, so it's Motorcraft only for me.
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From: Tamaroa, IL
I think BWD makes all the ignition parts on newer Ford vehicles, I don't know back then if they did. I was told the coil packs on my 97 are made by BWD, so buying the motocraft parts your just paying for the FoMoCo stamp. An example would be serpentine pulleys. Gates makes them for Ford. You can buy straight from Gates and save about 30% over the Motocraft part, and it's literally the same thing (except they machine the FoMoCo stamp off).
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Interestingly (and I say that strongly!), the old ignition module was fine. Even though most of the gu had leaked out and you can actually see the IC board. I think the problem is what I had experienced previously. My Edelbrock 1406 has some gunked inside the mixture screw ports. I have previously taken them out and sprayed carb cleaner and clean compressed air and that will work. Might be time to do it once again...
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Blue module introduced in 1976 was used well into the 1990's.
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ICM Interchange
A little off topic.
I am looking for a Motorcraft Number for an ICM on an industrial ford 1.3L 4 cylinder.
The Ford Module has an engineering number YU1L-12A297-FA. The module is Black with a blue 23 pin connector. There is a turquoise colored dot on the expoxy on the back side. I wanted to get this tested, but I can't find anyone with a machine that knows how to test it, or has the right connector. The current problem I'm having is I am only getting spark on #2 and 3 cylinders. The original problem started when the owner replaced the plug wires and used terminals for an older female tower distributor/coil, so the LS-1 Coil (Motorcraft 988F-12029-AB) was arcing to the wires and finally failed except for #3 cylinder. I installed a new BWD E251 coil and the correct terminals and boots, but 1 and 4 are still not firing. I checked the wiring harness, and the socket terminal for the 1-4 cylinder was not properly anchored in the connector at the ICM. (had about a 1/4" gap from the seating position) I fixed that and checked resitance, and it's good, but still no spark.
Any advice would be helpful. I was wondering if I could swap plug wires and the signal wires in the connector and see if the other side of the new coil would fire.
I am looking for a Motorcraft Number for an ICM on an industrial ford 1.3L 4 cylinder.
The Ford Module has an engineering number YU1L-12A297-FA. The module is Black with a blue 23 pin connector. There is a turquoise colored dot on the expoxy on the back side. I wanted to get this tested, but I can't find anyone with a machine that knows how to test it, or has the right connector. The current problem I'm having is I am only getting spark on #2 and 3 cylinders. The original problem started when the owner replaced the plug wires and used terminals for an older female tower distributor/coil, so the LS-1 Coil (Motorcraft 988F-12029-AB) was arcing to the wires and finally failed except for #3 cylinder. I installed a new BWD E251 coil and the correct terminals and boots, but 1 and 4 are still not firing. I checked the wiring harness, and the socket terminal for the 1-4 cylinder was not properly anchored in the connector at the ICM. (had about a 1/4" gap from the seating position) I fixed that and checked resitance, and it's good, but still no spark.
Any advice would be helpful. I was wondering if I could swap plug wires and the signal wires in the connector and see if the other side of the new coil would fire.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
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From: Raphine, Virginia
True, not plug and play. But you can upgrade to the 76-77 module. Best bet is pull the module, harness etc. from a wrecking yard, but you can rewire. Follow the pin locations rather than color Attached is wiring for each.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Knoxville, TN
Nice diagram showing the wiring differences. I'm not sure if it's just some or all, but the Duraspark II (blue grommet) modules I've worked with have red & white wires on the two-wire connector, rather than blue & red-blue. For those, red is hot in run, and white is hot in start.