Non Adjustable Clutch Rod?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Non Adjustable Clutch Rod?
I bled the slave and have the feel of the clutch working fine, but it's engaging low and I have ~2-3" of free travel before the fork is really pushing on the pressure plate.
My neighbor showed me an '84's adjustable clutch rod last weekend, so I had a look at mine today. Zero adjustment nut on the rod. The plastic bushing appeared to be in tact. The threaded part that the bushing goes over has a hole drilled through it and a spring loaded cotter pin in it. I pulled the pin and spun the rod clockwise 4 times, but it doesn't appear to adjust in and out.
Does this description fit a non adjustable clutch rod? Is there any sort of adjustment available for this style of clutch rod?
My neighbor showed me an '84's adjustable clutch rod last weekend, so I had a look at mine today. Zero adjustment nut on the rod. The plastic bushing appeared to be in tact. The threaded part that the bushing goes over has a hole drilled through it and a spring loaded cotter pin in it. I pulled the pin and spun the rod clockwise 4 times, but it doesn't appear to adjust in and out.
Does this description fit a non adjustable clutch rod? Is there any sort of adjustment available for this style of clutch rod?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
What do you mean "If hydro, no adjustment"? Aren't all slave cylinders hydraulic?
The only bushing I saw was the one at the clutch rod that goes through the fire wall. Is there another one or multiple others?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tennessee
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
By hydraulic release, you mean if you replace the slave and the clutch stays on the floor, it's hydraulic release, but if it pops up, it's mechanical via spring?
I'm going to have a closer look at the linkage bushing.
I'm going to have a closer look at the linkage bushing.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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aint sure about on our trucks, on semis they call for 1 1/2" of freeplay as a general rule. obviously it wont be that much on ours, but i have been curious what ours call for? but if the case is that there is no adjustment i guess it don't matter 
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
You miss what I am trying to say . If it has a slave cyl and master , it is hydro . If not , it is mechanical with rods , bell cranks , linkages or cables ( or some mixture of those parts ) Check your bushings , fire wall , and make sure you do not have air in the system .
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
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From: Eaton, CO
I just pulled the pin and bushing. The bushing is white plastic and appears to be a split bushing which compresses when pushed into its hole when installed.
The arm which has a pin on it and accepts the aforementioned slave rod/bushing assembly has a large nut at the top of it. Can this nut be loosened to pivot the arm closer to the firewall for clutch adjustment?
The arm which has a pin on it and accepts the aforementioned slave rod/bushing assembly has a large nut at the top of it. Can this nut be loosened to pivot the arm closer to the firewall for clutch adjustment?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
I could not see even the slightest bit of slop in the clutch pedal movement. The slightest bit of pressure on the pedal moves everything without any slop. Perhaps the bushings are worn and it just seems to work this way. I'll start replacing bushings as a process of elimination.
Would the next step be to find an adjustable linkage, or replace the slave?
Would the next step be to find an adjustable linkage, or replace the slave?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,554
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From: Northern Arizona
These things can be a real b**** to bleed properly. Sounds to me like you still have air in the system. Mine is leaking somewhere and "looses it's prime" when it sits, and is a PITA to get it working again. Many have had the best luck driving it ouround that way untill the bubbles work themselves out, as long as you can get enough prime out of it to be able to shift safely. Do check to make sure you don't have the cracked fire wall problem though. That could be inconvenient and/or dangerous if it failed bad enough at the wrong enough time! 
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
I had this problem(or something like it); it didn't seem to fully disengage without shoving the petal all the way to the floor(and then pushing hard against it).
I ended up taking the rod out, whacking the end off, drilling & threading it for an 8-32 screw, and using that for adjustment. Took a little bit to get the bugs worked out - I needed a nut on the screw to keep it from moving on me, and that nut had to be ground down to make it fit, but since getting it adjusted tightly, I've had no problems since.
Now, I'll point out that replacing the rod, master cyl and shoring up the firewall would have done it too, but this was the cheap and dirty solution - just extend the rod to take up all the flex in the (warn) components.
I ended up taking the rod out, whacking the end off, drilling & threading it for an 8-32 screw, and using that for adjustment. Took a little bit to get the bugs worked out - I needed a nut on the screw to keep it from moving on me, and that nut had to be ground down to make it fit, but since getting it adjusted tightly, I've had no problems since.
Now, I'll point out that replacing the rod, master cyl and shoring up the firewall would have done it too, but this was the cheap and dirty solution - just extend the rod to take up all the flex in the (warn) components.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
These things can be a real b**** to bleed properly. Sounds to me like you still have air in the system. Mine is leaking somewhere and "looses it's prime" when it sits, and is a PITA to get it working again. Many have had the best luck driving it ouround that way untill the bubbles work themselves out, as long as you can get enough prime out of it to be able to shift safely. Do check to make sure you don't have the cracked fire wall problem though. That could be inconvenient and/or dangerous if it failed bad enough at the wrong enough time!
There is a large steel plate at the master cylinder and it appears to run down and around the steering column.
I had this problem(or something like it); it didn't seem to fully disengage without shoving the petal all the way to the floor(and then pushing hard against it).
I ended up taking the rod out, whacking the end off, drilling & threading it for an 8-32 screw, and using that for adjustment. Took a little bit to get the bugs worked out - I needed a nut on the screw to keep it from moving on me, and that nut had to be ground down to make it fit, but since getting it adjusted tightly, I've had no problems since.
Now, I'll point out that replacing the rod, master cyl and shoring up the firewall would have done it too, but this was the cheap and dirty solution - just extend the rod to take up all the flex in the (warn) components.
I ended up taking the rod out, whacking the end off, drilling & threading it for an 8-32 screw, and using that for adjustment. Took a little bit to get the bugs worked out - I needed a nut on the screw to keep it from moving on me, and that nut had to be ground down to make it fit, but since getting it adjusted tightly, I've had no problems since.
Now, I'll point out that replacing the rod, master cyl and shoring up the firewall would have done it too, but this was the cheap and dirty solution - just extend the rod to take up all the flex in the (warn) components.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
At the time, I didn't have a junkyard I knew about which had cheap parts, nor did I know they /ever/ made them adjustable, so I just modified it. And no, I did it the other way around, using the end of a socket head cap screw for the "end" that pushes at the bottom of the reservoir. May not be pushing quite right, but it hasn't failed yet(6 months+ since I did it).
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
X2, sounds like you got abit more bleeding to do.
Now as for adjusting a hydraulic clutch, YES it is possible. No it does not adjust clutch catch on pedal travel, but you can have your pedal sit higher, and you won't have to go to the floor to shift in gear or whatever. I done in my F250 decades ago, best dang thing i've ever done to that truck!
From the factory in these trucks, the clutch pedal sits equal to the brake pedal. Mine sits 2" higher than the brake pedal.
The rod the pedal swivels on, theres a nut on the end of it, with notches. Remove that nut, and push pedal up as far as you want it, and slip that nut back on in new notches, it will make your pedal sit much higher and you'll love it.
Now as for adjusting a hydraulic clutch, YES it is possible. No it does not adjust clutch catch on pedal travel, but you can have your pedal sit higher, and you won't have to go to the floor to shift in gear or whatever. I done in my F250 decades ago, best dang thing i've ever done to that truck!
From the factory in these trucks, the clutch pedal sits equal to the brake pedal. Mine sits 2" higher than the brake pedal.
The rod the pedal swivels on, theres a nut on the end of it, with notches. Remove that nut, and push pedal up as far as you want it, and slip that nut back on in new notches, it will make your pedal sit much higher and you'll love it.