When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 2001 f-350 4x4 transmission is probably done. 200,000 miles driven with plenty of heavy RV towing. Without any prior warning pulled up to stop sign (empty) stepped on throttle and tranny slipped and then caught. Just made it home 3 miles, by the time I got into my driveway in 4 low there was nothing left.
Tranny fluid is right up and looks decent on dipstick wondering if there is possibly any electronic issues, tranny has been regularily serviced etc. Have temp gauge installed and temps have never been an issue. Pan and filter will be pulled on Monday for visual also mechanic can scan it.
I am wondering what my options are if replacement is necessary, am located on Vancouver Isl. B.C. Ford will supply re-man including TC for 3500$ exchanged with 2 yr. 40,000 km warranty. Any suggestions?
The most popular choices are Ford HD reman, BTS, and John Woods. A local "HD" rebuild is hit and miss judging by the threads I've seen here. For the Ford reman, note that both OE and HD are available, and you want the HD.
OTOH maybe yours still has some life in it. Clean fluid is a positive sign.
When you are able to determine the tranny build date, you will be able to determine if it is the failure prone mechanical diode equipped model. Bear in mind, truck build date will not always tell you if you have the diode tranny. Mine, for example, has a tranny build date later than the truck build date. That means it left the assembly line with a defective tranny which was replaced at a later time with a good one. (It's still a diode tranny though). Here's more info on it:
Mechanical Diode Tranny Build Dates2001 vehicles equipped with 4R100 transmission, having a transmission build date between
7/27/2000 and 3/23/2001. Roland (mueckster) 04-15-2008 The trans does have its own build date located on the tag on the trans case (left side ,rear).
4th line down should show BD- #Letter##. This is the build date year/ month/ day.
Example : BD-1D281=2001 D=April (A=Jan, B=Feb...12=Dec) 28=Day of Month.
Using his example tranny Build Date is Jan 28, 2001 Mark Kovalsky 01-03-2009 The mechanical diode was in the diesels from the start of 2001 model year (July, 2000) and left production in March, 2001.
Cody (cleatus12r) 01-03-2009 If anyone is still interested, the "mechanical diode" was the replacement for the one way roller clutch previously (Intermediate one way clutch) used in the E4OD and 4R100s. After Ford found out that the diode wouldn't work in the gasser trucks (they exploded when shifted at 5300 RPM), they decided that they should stick with the proven and slightly more robust design. It is a mechanical device that allows rotation in one direction but not the other. It is used for the 1-2 shift when in drive range. When the "diode" was used, it replaced the roller clutch with a sprag that is inherently weaker. High power/high RPM 1-2 shifts are what kills the intermediate one way in the diesels.
Mark Kovalsky 01-03-2009 The gas engine trucks blew up the diode at 4600 RPM if the driver lifted his right foot just as the WOT 1-2 shift started, then put it right back on the floor. The person that discovered this was able to do it on 100% of the trucks he tried it on. That's why they left it in the diesels, they couldn't run 4600 RPM.
You may be out of the woods as far as the mechanical diode clutch is concerned but 200K with that kind of use I would say that you got your money's worth. Shipping wise I guess that you are closer to John Woods if you go "custom build" route but the Ford HD will save you a couple of kilobucks.
On jw website it's $4700 for the tow one, bts is $4400 through ct performance and haven looked into hd ford ones. And I'm not sure about jw but bts is exchange or $1000 for no core. For me, shipping to California was around $180 each way (if I was returning a core) again for a bts through ct performance.
It's backed by the dealer (right there in your home town) during the warranty period - if there is one. This is where things fall in a gray area: I've heard of many dealerships honoring the warranty on a chipped truck, and my own dealership encouraged me to chip (they sell a programmer). Bigger sticks (like I have done) will likely put me in Buck$Zooka range if I have an issue during what's left of my warranty (about 3 more months).
Warranty aside, I have tortured my transmission over the last (almost) three years and 35K miles. I've had tunes that were meant for the 4R100 and a tuned truck, but it hammered the transmission and the occupants. I finally learned that the HD4R100 requires almost no tweaking at all, even with my 400HP. After all my adventures with the Stinker, the transmission is the one thing that has tolerated all my faux pas, WOT tests with funky tunes, crazy air temps and grades, and is now assertive, smooth, and cool. I've had Stinky tuned to prevent spinning tires in the DD, but the race tune will still break 'em loose in second without effort... and I've experienced a third-gear scratch on a tune that needed adjustment (really hard on the ware).
I am slowly building some real respect for this transmission, and I wouldn't dissuade anybody (who drives sane with stock sticks) from installing one. I just add this one thing: Tell your tuner to leave the transmission settings alone... at least until you've had a chance to see how it reacts to chipped power. I had my OD shift speed altered to prevent down-shifting at 65 MPH when I pass a pokey - I have enough torque to muscle through.
Cody rode with me during a live-tune session with AE up for data. After looking at the data, feeling the shifts, and adjusting the tunes... he commented that he wants one of these transmissions.