There's a couple different versions of these that all seem to run on php software that I'm looking to purchase one of for my 2000 six speed 2wd.

My question for those who have one of these is what tunes did you get and or what ones did you wish you had?

Ill have four slots to fill with two of the total six being stock and 140hp race. (just cause).

A good Econ DD tune is also wanted and I do tow a pontoon boat often.

 

My Phoenix setup is 80hp Economy, 100hp Performance, 120hp Race, 80hp Tow and 40hp Heavy Tow.

I use 100hp Performance 99% of the time, my favorite tune by far.

 

How's mileage compared to stock on that setting?

 

My average mpg is around 16. But that's a 4x4 CCSB with 35" tires. I've gotten as good as 18mpg (economy setting on the interstate) and as low as 11mpg (towing in the mountains.)

Overall very happy with all the tunes. I don't drive in stock very long at all....the soon as it's up to temp (or close) it's on the 100hp Performance setting.

F-350 (Ford F-350 Super Duty) | Fuelly

 

Six different calibrations on a stock truck ("stock" meaning "having stock injectors") and especially those that have manual transmissions is a bit overkill. One or two is usually more than anybody will ever really use since once a person gets a feel for how each drives, he or she will pick their favorite and run it in that "tune" for a hefty majority of their driving needs. Heck, even with 160/100% injectors and an automatic I only used one calibration for everything (and I also plan to do the same with the 250/200% injectors in it now). Since you have a manual transmission and stock injectors, the only thing you need to worry about is your exhaust gas temperature. No calibration in the world is going to change your shifting for you (automatic transmissions are the main reason for all of the "towing", "daily driving", "performance", and "racing" jargon). Smoke control is all done with your right foot.

My advice is to pick a couple of calibrations that you know you'll need based on your uses/driving habits from the list on the Phoenix product information page and then pick a few more DIFFERENT ones to fill the other positions on the chip. For example, if you must have more than one "performance" calibration and choose the 140, don't get the 120 too. Go for the 100 instead (which in my opinion is the BEST one offered and works well for everything as long as you don't melt it down while towing) because there's a whole lot of nothing different about the 100, 120, and 140 except that you'll make more of that obnoxious black stuff before 1600-1800 RPM when you stand on it from a stop in the 120 and 140. While the tuning is different between the three, the stock injectors are the limiting factor when dealing with ultimate power output.

Similarly, if you want more than one towing tune, don't choose a 25 and a 40 horsepower one. If you get a 25, go for a 65 or 80 for your second one. If you go for the 40, get the 80 to go with it. Again, you're not going to actually feel too much of a difference between calibrations rated at a 15 horsepower difference when you're grossing 5-6 tons.

As such, getting both "Daily Driver" calibrations is a waste as well. The main thing you'll feel between them (if you can even feel 15 or so horsepower in a 4-ton + pickup) is going to be felt when you're standing on the accelerator pedal. If you are giving "full onion", you're not going for mileage now anyway, right?

Power Hungry Performance doesn't offer an "economy" calibration because people would be upset when the vehicle's mileage didn't change. Is it possible to see a small (read: almost insignificant) fuel economy increase? Yes, but it's not a guarantee. Your mileage shouldn't decrease as long as you're nice to the vehicle and driving as if you're trying to get every mile out of a gallon of fuel, but to EXPECT an increase is a sure way to be disappointed later. The daily driver calibrations are to make the truck more responsive and less frustrating to drive while adding a significant amount of power for those times that one just HAS to wait until the last second to pull out in front of an oncoming vehicle.

I hope this helps.

 

Very salient points

Stock, a mild tune for tow use, the 100hp and "hey guys watch this!" Are probably the only tunes I'd actually use much.

This brings me to the wildcard tune I don't know or hear much about, the "quiet" tune. Wich could be quite usefull if it operates as advertised. I also wonder what this tune does if driven.

 

It depends on the vehicle. Some respond better than others. Some are just inherently noisy while others will produce a pungent haze (unburned fuel). It all depends on the condition of the engine though as to your individual results with that one.

With Power Hungry's "Whisper Mode", the "quiet" part of the calibration only has an effect at idle RPM while anything higher simply operates as a stock calibration.

 

Actually, it should be called "quiet Idle". It can be driven, but it will coke up your injector nozzles. The semi-burnt diesel stench at the coffee window (and in a traffic jam) is far worse than a little diesel cackle. What's it good for? Driving through a campground or arriving in/leaving your driveway early morning/late at night. I've had more than one variation of a quiet tune, but I now just have all my tunes with as quiet an idle as possible, without fumigating the neighborhood.

 

I get quite a bit of use out of the high-idle tune, spins the a/c nice to cool of the truck while I load horses

 

I went with:
Stock
65 tow
80 tow
High idle
80 dd
120 race

 

My tunes are:

Stock
Quiet - not very useful in my opinion
40 Tow
65 Tow
80 Daily Driver
120 Race

I hardly ever use the 40 Tow, I am able to maintain reasonable EGT's even towing my 13k+ lb 5th wheel in 65 Tow.

I avoid the Quiet tune. Not only does it not make much of a difference in my truck, if I flip past it too quickly when changing tunes it has shown a tendency to make the transmission act up until I shut the truck off and back on with the chip set to a different tune.

Otherwise I love my PHP tunes, and Cody has been awesome in addressing any questions I had or adjustments I needed.

 

My experience: Keep it simple. Stock is a must; Hi idle is good for winter warmups, battery charging, and running A/C; a 40 HP tow tune covers whatever weight you'll pull; a peppy DD (60 or 80 HP); but Race is one that almost never gets used on my truck.

Now, if we were talking Hydra - TNT tune (my name for it)... whenever Bill finally decides to let that out.

 

My tunes
Stock
60t
80t
80
100
no start

Empty it stays at the 100 setting. Towing is almost always at the 80t the other tow tune is used in the mountains.

 

So what if any difference is there betwixt a tow or performance tune of the same HP for my manual transmission truck?

 

The fuel mapping is different. My 80hp performance blows more smoke than either of my tow tunes (40hp and 60hp).

From what I understand there is only slight changes at full throttle between the 65 and 80 tunes for daily driver and performance so if you don't lay into the go pedal you have the same tune effectively.

My tunes are: stock/80DD/80Perf/100Race/40Tow/60Tow

I spend most of my time in 80DD and 80 Performance. Stock is only for warm-up and smog testing. I have seen an average of 1-1.5mpg improvement with these tunes over stock, which is impressive since the truck can't even get out of it's own way with the factory tune. I don't use the race tune much since I've got 235K on the original injectors. I use the tow tunes for downtown traffic and the 40hp tow is great for off-roading.

I know most go with other tuners, but I love my PHP tunes.