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Injector Cup Replacement

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Old May 31, 2013 | 09:46 PM
  #16  
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Wanted to give you an update as to where I stand on this F250 before I go turn into a vegetable for the evening.

Got home from work, hooked up the batt charger set to 40A and let it run while I topped off the engine oil, and went to get some fuel in a can. Topped off the fuel filter with fuel.

Boosted charger to 200A and cranked it over once and nothing. Cranked it over twice and nothing. Dropped charger to 40A and let things cool down.

Cranked it over again and what was that sounded like a little something but must have been mistaken.

Waited about 2 min and Cranked it over again and just when I was about to let it have another break.... oh now that was something.... no break here keep her going.... she started well kinda hehe... think it was running on like 2 cylinders. Just left it sit there on its own and got out and turned charger off. slowly it smoothed out and I let it run for about half an hour.

Some minor raise in water level, but I think that can be attributed to heat and water expanding normal. No blow out through pressure cap like what I had happening before.

Had some blue smoke... decided to run it around the block and man she does hesitate but seems to be smoothing out. When I get on her she huffs blue smoke still and is a bit rough. I think after this type of surgery and the amount of oil that got down into those cylinders this is probably to be expected.

I guess that's where I am.... running, a bit rough, huffing blue smoke under stress.

Am I right that this will probably clear itself up over time?

Also is there something I can use to do a better job of flushing out the rest of the fuel residue from the system? I have to replace both radiator and both heater hoses as they are trashed from the fuel... Soft as a babies bottom.

Man it felt good to hear it fire up though had me scared.

Almost forgot now I have a service engine soon light but no codes? Figure will probably clear itself up after things smooth out also.
 
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Old May 31, 2013 | 10:06 PM
  #17  
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do a search here on Cascade dish washing soap theres a lot of threads on that topic
 
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Old May 31, 2013 | 11:13 PM
  #18  
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hey crop_harvester...... unreal but actually makes alot of sense when you think about it.... wife is going to pick it up tomorrow. Then with the old sludge out, and system flushed with all new hoses, I'll know for sure whether or not the problem is fixed....
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:36 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Phoppe
Almost forgot now I have a service engine soon light but no codes? Figure will probably clear itself up after things smooth out also.
Thanks for reporting back on that! It usually takes about 50 miles to purge the air from the whole system.

Yup... Cascade.

Once everything is cleaned up (but not refilled with coolant), remove the degas bottle again and get "Goof Off" - the regular one (not industrial strength). Rubber-band some Saran Wrap over the openings to form a closed vessel. Pour 2 ounces of Goof Off into the degas and shake it like you'd like to do to a politician... then pour out and flush out with water (also like you'd like to do with a politician). I bought a new degas bottle from Riffraff Diesel.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Phoppe
Almost forgot now I have a service engine soon light but no codes? Figure will probably clear itself up after things smooth out also.
Most likely an extended crank time or low ICP. It will go away.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 12:36 PM
  #21  
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It is good to hear it fire after that job. Mine took several cranks and an overnight recharge of the batts before it fired off, but I never topped off the HPOP reservor - that likely would have helped speed things up.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 11:46 AM
  #22  
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I am back. Not sure if I should start a new thread or just keep posting to this one.

I'm still in the crapper on this. Got it all cleaned up but still getting sludge in the bottle.

I'm actually thinking I might have done the cups and injector o-ring set for naught.... but at least they are done.

If I may bother you guys with it what I would like to do is go back to square one as if nothing has been done.

The problem 7.3 is a 2000 F250. I purchased this truck with the problem and have little to no history on it. (Got it cheap 2500.00). The seller told me right off about the problem (I think it was the first words out of his mouth about the truck). Problem is a thick heavy creamy substance in the degas bottle. He also informed me the oil cooler had been changed. It looks new?

Something I probably should have done before. I poured a bit of fuel on my finger... it was slippery, but thin. This sludge is very slippery, much more so than the pure fuel was. My oil level has dropped considerably. I think while flushing I've just been pumping in more. If you were to ask me if the sludge smells like fuel... right now it smells lemony fresh from cascade still.

So at this point, if I were you I'd be asking myself well what the heck does this guy want?

What tests can I do? should I do? to get a strong likelyhood that what I find is the cause.

I'm open minded.... this guys buddy ripped him off, took his oil cooler off cleaned it up and put it back.... cracked head? head gasket? you screwed up on the cups? Where can I start over and get this right?

BTW its running very poorly as previously mentioned. I took it on the road a bit this morning, and it didn't want to take off. Drove it around the block cause I figured better take it home, but it got better, thinking this could be caused by low oil levels again.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 02:53 PM
  #23  
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Fuel in coolant - bad cup.
Oil in coolant - bad oil cooler seals.

It could be a bad head gasket or something serious like that, but the two above are waaay more common.

How does your oil look? It's easy to get oil in coolant and coolant in water - the oil is under higher pressure when running and the opposite is true when a warm engine is off.
  1. Purge oil and coolant. Remove the engine block heater and the thermostat to get as much yuck out of there as possible. Leave the oil drain off.
  2. Put your coolant hose back on the thermostat housing and close the radiator drain.
  3. Tap into your home hot water tank with a garden hose and really flush the system by pouring hot water into the degas bottle.
  4. Look for any water to drip out of the oil pan or the oil filter base.
  5. If you get to this point without water coming out of stuff other than the block heater opening, it's time to install the block heated and puff the coolant system up to 12 PSI and see if it holds.
If it fails step 4 or 5... your first, cheapest, and easiest suspect is the oil cooler.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 10:05 PM
  #24  
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[quote=Tugly;13217290]

How does your oil look? It's easy to get oil in coolant and coolant in water - the oil is under higher pressure when running and the opposite is true when a warm engine is off. [/quote]


Its a thick heavy cream. The oil is clean like they had it flushed so its not going to be dark and ugly. Even though with the run time I have given it the cream is getting darker. It was like a yellow almost but growing more tan. But, like I said the guy I got the truck from had the oil cooler replaced, unless it was a bad job. Will work on running the tests you describe over the next couple of days....

BTW there is no water in oil. Oil is clean.

Thanks
 
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