Deteriorated Water Pump Blades?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Deteriorated Water Pump Blades?
I've had the pump for 3 years. I'm getting swinging readings that I've never seen. I've changed the gauge from after market electric to after market manual, and it continues.
I'm wondering if deteriorating blades on the water pump could be causing the strange readings. Is that possible after only 3 years?
I'm wondering if deteriorating blades on the water pump could be causing the strange readings. Is that possible after only 3 years?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 381
From: Near Los Angeles
Sam, thanks for the reply. The Thermostat was the first thing I thought of. I changed it when I changed the gauge. The jumping reading persists, and that is why suspicion moved to the w/pump. kevin.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
Sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system...
The air pocket gets around the temp sensor and the gauge swings high, after the air pocket passes, the temp sensor is surrounded by coolant and the gauge swings low (back to normal).
Try "burping" the cooling system.
The air pocket gets around the temp sensor and the gauge swings high, after the air pocket passes, the temp sensor is surrounded by coolant and the gauge swings low (back to normal).
Try "burping" the cooling system.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 266
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From: Idaho
Maybe that's something new...but the old systems I didn't think it mattered if you "burped them or not...as you can run at idle with the cap off...
They don't make things like they used to...thermostats go bad, gauges go bad pumps go bad...even after 3 yrs...I wouldn't suspect the cooling fins deteriorating after that short of a time.
They don't make things like they used to...thermostats go bad, gauges go bad pumps go bad...even after 3 yrs...I wouldn't suspect the cooling fins deteriorating after that short of a time.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
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From: Near Los Angeles
Sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system...
The air pocket gets around the temp sensor and the gauge swings high, after the air pocket passes, the temp sensor is surrounded by coolant and the gauge swings low (back to normal).
Try "burping" the cooling system.
The air pocket gets around the temp sensor and the gauge swings high, after the air pocket passes, the temp sensor is surrounded by coolant and the gauge swings low (back to normal).
Try "burping" the cooling system.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Having no idea what motor, what year even .... you have .... and knowing there is a good chance all the below is old news to you ..... please look at it simply as an attempt to maybe help.
If by chance, you maybe have a 351M or 400 make sure you have the thermostat specifically for a 351M or 400, not at all same as for 351W or 289-302. The 351M and 400 use same block and it's bypass is cast in place and the correct thermostat has a "inverted hat" on the lower side that serves to fiurther restrict the bypass as the T-stat opens. The regular SBFord T-stats don't. Use of the wrong T-stat configuration will result in strange temperature readings and often, a slow climb into the "red zone" as much coolant is simply recirculated into the block without ever going through a radiator. The purpose of the restriction becoming greater is to force more coolant through the radiator as temps go up.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-issues.html
If by chance, you maybe have a 351M or 400 make sure you have the thermostat specifically for a 351M or 400, not at all same as for 351W or 289-302. The 351M and 400 use same block and it's bypass is cast in place and the correct thermostat has a "inverted hat" on the lower side that serves to fiurther restrict the bypass as the T-stat opens. The regular SBFord T-stats don't. Use of the wrong T-stat configuration will result in strange temperature readings and often, a slow climb into the "red zone" as much coolant is simply recirculated into the block without ever going through a radiator. The purpose of the restriction becoming greater is to force more coolant through the radiator as temps go up.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-issues.html
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Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 381
From: Near Los Angeles
Having no idea what motor, what year even .... you have .... and knowing there is a good chance all the below is old news to you ..... please look at it simply as an attempt to maybe help.
If by chance, you maybe have a 351M or 400 make sure you have the thermostat specifically for a 351M or 400, not at all same as for 351W or 289-302. The 351M and 400 use same block and it's bypass is cast in place and the correct thermostat has a "inverted hat" on the lower side that serves to fiurther restrict the bypass as the T-stat opens. The regular SBFord T-stats don't. Use of the wrong T-stat configuration will result in strange temperature readings and often, a slow climb into the "red zone" as much coolant is simply recirculated into the block without ever going through a radiator. The purpose of the restriction becoming greater is to force more coolant through the radiator as temps go up.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-issues.html
If by chance, you maybe have a 351M or 400 make sure you have the thermostat specifically for a 351M or 400, not at all same as for 351W or 289-302. The 351M and 400 use same block and it's bypass is cast in place and the correct thermostat has a "inverted hat" on the lower side that serves to fiurther restrict the bypass as the T-stat opens. The regular SBFord T-stats don't. Use of the wrong T-stat configuration will result in strange temperature readings and often, a slow climb into the "red zone" as much coolant is simply recirculated into the block without ever going through a radiator. The purpose of the restriction becoming greater is to force more coolant through the radiator as temps go up.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-issues.html
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Didn't know what motor you had, just throwing ideas. 
Straight water over years will eat steel blades up, never heard of it with coolant (which also serves as a corrosion inhibitor) though. Worth a look I guess.
Straight water over years will eat steel blades up, never heard of it with coolant (which also serves as a corrosion inhibitor) though. Worth a look I guess.
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