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Injector Return lines

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Old May 30, 2013 | 04:38 PM
  #1  
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Injector Return lines

My return lines are leaking.

It seems to be where the cup goes over the injector and has the packings in it. It is creating a puddle of fuel down by the glow plug.

I hate to have to buy the whole kit because it comes with parts I don't need.

Can any one tell me the size or p/n of the packing that goes inside of the cup that fits over the injector?

Mine are the "late" model cups if that makes any difference on the packing size.

Thanks
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 05:04 PM
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It's a pair of O-Rings:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13195833


Originally Posted by MauleOne
My return lines are leaking.

It seems to be where the cup goes over the injector and has the packings in it. It is creating a puddle of fuel down by the glow plug.

I hate to have to buy the whole kit because it comes with parts I don't need.

Can any one tell me the size or p/n of the packing that goes inside of the cup that fits over the injector?

Mine are the "late" model cups if that makes any difference on the packing size.

Thanks
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
it's strongly advised to replace the whole kit as an assembly due to the strong possibility of disturbing the other o-rings/lines and find yourself chasing your tail for days,weeks or even months latter.
for recommended kits, see here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-line-kit.html

however with that said, the answer to your question is:
7/16 ID x 5/8 OD
and as noted by Niles above,they are commonly refereed to by their dash size: #111
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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Hat tip to TechGod though.

In my case I have the new caps and hose already. My McMaster order arrived today, 50 of the viton O-rings for just over $10 after shipping.
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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I used a $~50 kit off Ebay. Worked fine so far, been about 8 months and no leaks. I've found you have to sort of install them then let it leak for a couple of heat/cool cycles, once things "settle" the leaks go away.
 
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Old May 31, 2013 | 07:55 AM
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I broke the injector cap on the #2 cylinder during an unrelated repair. Couldn't get just one replacement cap (no surprise) so bought a kit from Autozone. Kit included fuel line, pinch clamps, and 10 injector caps - 4 right angle and 6 straight. Cost me $28.
 
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Old May 31, 2013 | 10:18 AM
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Fuel Return Lines

Thanks for all the responses. Helps me a lot.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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cap position

I just put in a whole new replacement kit and I had a few questions. I had a no-start for quite a while and putting in the new return line kit seems to be what got it going again unless it was just a luck coincidence. When I push the caps on, how far down should they go? Before replacing I noticed that there was about a 1/16" gap between the fuel line nut and the top of the cap on #8. The rest of the caps looked flush with the nuts on all the other cylinders. When I put the new kit in I was able to see that there were some little grooves on the inside of the caps where the o-rings were supposed to sit. I pushed all the caps on and most of them seemed to, "click" into place. Now they all have that 1/16" gap. Did I push them down too far or is this how they are supposed to look? I'm getting foam in the return line headed back to the tank. I was hoping this was just air in the system that would get purged out while running, but it doesn't appear to be happening. It also seems like it's a little harder to start and I'm afraid I'm gonna get stuck again. Final question. I accidentally stripped the fuel line on #1. I replaced the line and the spacer that sits on top or the #1 injector with a junkyard part I ordered online. When the part arrived there was a plastic washer that appeared to go with the spacer. I couldn't find one on my setup and everything seemed to fit, so I just left it out. Am I missing something? Thoughts?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:51 PM
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aboisseau,

Like you, I'm a newby here. The one thing I noted again and again in the threads about the return fuel lines was to make sure to lubricate the O-rings when you install them.

I actually re-used my O-rings when I replaced the broken fuel injector cap, but only because from the appearance of the fuel line and pinch clamps it looked as though a full replacement kit had been installed only a short time before. Still, I made certain I lubricated the O-rings before I pushed on the new injector cap.

Like I said, I'm a newby, but when you say you have foam in the return line that certainly sounds like you may have a damaged or misaligned O-ring, allowing air into the fuel return line.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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Thanks FMC

Thanks FMC! I did lubricate the O-rings, but not all the caps felt the same, "click" like they were popping into place. What about the gap between the top of the plastic cap and the nut? Do you have the 1/16" gap or are your fuel line nuts flush with the caps?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:24 PM
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Sorry for the no-reply. I've been out of town.

I'll check on the spacing tomorrow, in the daylight.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 09:05 AM
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When installing the caps, I have found that some will click and some will not. To ensure that they are seated, I take a deep socket, just big enough to fit over the threads on the injector and rest on the top of the caps. I then lightly tap on the socket till I feel or hear the click. Remember these do not need to pounded on just lightly tapped down. this method saves abuse on your hands, and allows you to put even pressure on the cap, avoiding possible damage to the o-rings by not putting the cap on straight.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by aboisseau
Thanks FMC! I did lubricate the O-rings, but not all the caps felt the same, "click" like they were popping into place. What about the gap between the top of the plastic cap and the nut? Do you have the 1/16" gap or are your fuel line nuts flush with the caps?
There is a small gap between the fuel line nut and the caps.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 02:11 PM
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I put an extra o-ring between the cap and the injector line nut to ensure a little downforce on the return cap. The o-ring will just squish out if it needs to.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 12:48 PM
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Return Lines

Interesting.

Thanks for all the replys
 
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