So my A/C was getting weak last fall with not very cool air. I recharged the system and that worked through most of the winter and into the spring. All of the refrigerant has since leaked out. I was unable to find the leak until just this afternoon. Looks like the condenser is leaking just below where the power steering lines go into the p/s cooler.

I have found a new condenser on rockauto for $130 which also includes the p/s cooler and receiver/drier.

Does anyone know where the receiver/drier is located... i'm not the knowledgeable on a/c systems so any help would be appreciated.

Also, does the power steering cooler use the same fins that the condenser does(the top few rows of fins for the p/s cooler and the bottom fins for the condenser?). I'm having a hard time finding where the two are separated at.

 

well it looks like google has payed off again. Turns our that the leak is right at the top of the receiver/drier, which is just below the p/s oil cooler. My suspicions were correct. the oil cooler uses the top few fins and the condenser uses the rest of the fins below.

I have talked to a coworker who used to work as a mechanic at a Porche dealer and he said that i'd have to have the system evacuated and charged at a dealership. Would this be necessary even if i replaced the receiver/drier with the condenser or could i get away with just charging the system with a few cans from the local parts store?

 

It needs to be evacuated to clean out any possible contaminants and to leak check the system. If it won't hold a vacuum it won't hold a charge.

Likely the dealer or a reputable a/c shop would be the best move.

If I'm wrong here, someone please feel free to put me in my place.

 

My coworker confirmed exactly what you just stated. Looks like it's going to be $160 for a new condenser and seal kit, including shipping. Found a local privately owned shop(same place i bought my last tires from) that will evacuate the system, check for leaks, and recharge the system for $117, which includes the R134a.

A lot cheaper than the dealership quoted me. They wanted $230 for the evacuation and more for the R134a.

 

got the seal kit in on friday and just got the new condenser in the mail today. Hopefully i'll be able to swap them out this weekend and then get the system evac'd and charged up next week. I'll be sure to post some updates, and any helpful hints for anyone who needs to change theirs in the future.

 

The charging of an A/C system is a sensible procedure, and I can talk to you about it, I replaced every single part of my A/C except the hoses very recently. There are three main issues and the require special tools: You need to evacuate the system of any air that's inside, the mixture of air/gas create pressures high enough to blow seals, reduce exponentially the life of the compressor and in general make the system very inefficient. To evacuate the system a vacuum pump is required, one with enough capacity to create a constant vacuum and keep going for several minutes, once this is done you can check is there aren't any leaks, if the system can hold its vacuum for 15, 30 or more minutes then it's properly sealed and can be refilled. The second issue is filling in with the proper oil, in the proper quantity to lube the system (again, the lack or excess can lead to the compressor's fiery death). And finally, you need to fill the system with the proper refrigerant, until the specified pressure for the system is attained.

If a shop does this you get a warranty on the work, and if by any chance the charge is lost you can held them responsible, personally I went this way, replaced the parts myself and the had a reputable shop service the system, 3 months later I can say I'm a happy customer.

 

Everyone is correct on the evacuation of the system, air contains moisture, which when combined with high pressure and temperature causes hydrochloric acid, this is what really tears a system up, a system as small as an auto air conditioner should be vacuumed for at least 1/2 hour minimum, also if you have access to a micron meter you can tell if you have the leaks repaired while still pulling a vacuum, if it wont pull a deep vacuum it will leak, a micron meter will show this( essentially a micron meter is a wide view of the bottom of the scale on a set of gauge's that show in detail how tight a system is, if you don't have availability of these essential tools, a private shop is the way to go!

 

I thought about buying the vacuum pump and gauges to evacuate the system and then recharge, but that would have been roughly $200 more then what the shop i'm going to would have charged me. I can't see spending that much money on something that i hopefully would never have to use again.

 

I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the dryer while apart . The dessicant absorbs moisture and degrades . If the system is apart , good time to replace , a little extra but well worth it . IMHO ( ASE cert in AC and many other ) And ... you can rent a vac pump and gauges from most parts stores .

 

You're right, it's not worth spending the money unless you think you can make money with the gear. Your situation seems like such a fluke. My 2004 Expy has never had an a/c issue and I think it blows colder than my 2011.

The system on my old '88 failed, of course it was R-12. My stepson was in the business and brought me a vacuum pump and gauge set. I converted my system to 134a replacing all seals / gaskets, condenser/dryer and orifice tube.

I pulled a nice vacuum on the system and let it hold for 30 minutes. then I gave her an oil charge and the 134a charge. She sucked that juice right and blew so cold I could hang meat in the cab. After about three years I was adding a small charge every year to maintain.

Without the pump I would have never had that much success with my conversion.

 

at this point a drier should be replaced and also don't forget to lightly oil the o-rings with compressor oil, good luck and stay cool!

 

Having a drier come apart in the system is also no fun, if you are lucky it all stops at the expansion valve or orifice tube, either way it has to be flushed, likely would not be a problem on something so new, but you never know.

 

This condenser came with a new drier. with that being said, how much should i worry about moisture while installing the condenser. It looks like it was shipped with just rubber caps over the openings. They didn't seem very air tight. Will that affect the new drier, and should i limit it's time without the caps during the install to a certain time limit to preserve the desiccant?

I think my biggest worry on this project is going to be trying to catch/not make a mess with the power steering fluid.

 

No big issue, just take your time and do it right, of course, don't leave it (or the system) open several days, etc...

 

Any moisture that enters while being assembled will be drawn off during the vac down process . just don't leave the system open for long . Seal it up , and have it vacuumed down .