New Toys
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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New Toys
My 3 gauge A-pillar kit from Diesel Manor showed up today.. or part of it anyway. They did not have the boost or trans temp in stock, nor the gauge software. Those were shipped from Isspro and i got them in 2 days. NINE days from time of order i got my box from Diesel manor that was supposed to have the gauge pod and pyro along with install kit. Well.. i got the install kit and pod, no sign of my pyro. Quick test fit of the Autometer A-pillar tripple gauge pod left my kinda dissapointed. Its got kind of a warp to it and doesnt fit square at the top. Also it is not pre-drilled for the screws to go through. The gauges do not fit into the pod very good either.
Customer service was really good until i placed my order. Since then i got an email with the reciept, invoice and tracking number, but no reply to my email regarding issues i encountered with the software (sent 2 days ago). I sent another email inquiring about the pyrometer and reminding them of my previous email. If i dont get anything by midday tomorrow im going to give them a call and see whats going on.
Does anyone else have any experience with diesel manor?
Customer service was really good until i placed my order. Since then i got an email with the reciept, invoice and tracking number, but no reply to my email regarding issues i encountered with the software (sent 2 days ago). I sent another email inquiring about the pyrometer and reminding them of my previous email. If i dont get anything by midday tomorrow im going to give them a call and see whats going on.
Does anyone else have any experience with diesel manor?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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Well good news! Called David at Diesel Manor and everything got squared away. He also had just sent emails back to me when i called so thats a good sign. He apologized about the mishap and is having my pyro drop shipped straight from Isspro which is here in Oregon, so should only be 2 days.
As for the A-pillar pod, after a little shaving and minor trimming with my knife, i got a satisfactory fit out of it. Still kinda bows away from the pillar in the center, but isnt noticable.
As for the A-pillar pod, after a little shaving and minor trimming with my knife, i got a satisfactory fit out of it. Still kinda bows away from the pillar in the center, but isnt noticable.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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i think you can use the obs pillars, just cut the top and bottom off or something like that.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
nice new toys.
on the lower side,where your thumb is but up beside the middle gauge hole,you don't have a screw hole there? that would keep the pod from bowing out on you in the center.the glow shift brand had this........or at least that's where i put a screw and cap.you could too and likely resolve the issue.
on the lower side,where your thumb is but up beside the middle gauge hole,you don't have a screw hole there? that would keep the pod from bowing out on you in the center.the glow shift brand had this........or at least that's where i put a screw and cap.you could too and likely resolve the issue.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,945
Likes: 13
nice new toys.
on the lower side,where your thumb is but up beside the middle gauge hole,you don't have a screw hole there? that would keep the pod from bowing out on you in the center.the glow shift brand had this........or at least that's where i put a screw and cap.you could too and likely resolve the issue.
on the lower side,where your thumb is but up beside the middle gauge hole,you don't have a screw hole there? that would keep the pod from bowing out on you in the center.the glow shift brand had this........or at least that's where i put a screw and cap.you could too and likely resolve the issue.
Gettysburg, if you want an inexpensive you probably dont want Isspro. The 3 gauge kit and the software to program the gauges set me back a little over $500
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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my glowshift pod didn't really fit the contour of the factory pillar that good. it went straight over the center like yours is. i have a screw in the top, center, and the bottom. with those three it is nice and tight to the factory pillar and i now have no complaints. at first i was like WTF is this? but then i put the screws in and was happy LOL.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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Im going to see if it bouces or squeaks and if necessary add the middle screw.
Dug into the wiring tonight. All i have to say is they make these SOOO nice and easy to wire. I mean still a PITA because its wiring lol, but comparatively easy. Easy to do nice and clean as well. Especially with the potentiometer and harness that diesel manor includes as part of thier kit (optional part from Isspro) makes it an easy clean job. Very impressed with the "kit" theyve put together for the gauges. They put some real thought effort and some $$ to do it.
Dug into the wiring tonight. All i have to say is they make these SOOO nice and easy to wire. I mean still a PITA because its wiring lol, but comparatively easy. Easy to do nice and clean as well. Especially with the potentiometer and harness that diesel manor includes as part of thier kit (optional part from Isspro) makes it an easy clean job. Very impressed with the "kit" theyve put together for the gauges. They put some real thought effort and some $$ to do it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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Anyone have some tips on which wires to tap into for key 12v and dimmer? Just noticed the instructions they sent are for a 99-03 SD and the wires are no where near the same. Would like to tie into the fuse box rather than piggy backing into the wires.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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for the dimmer put the headlight switch out of the dash. Take a test light and stick in each wire. Find the one that is hot with running lights on, head lights on, and also dims when you turn the ****. i don't remember what wire color it is.
i used a fuse tap to get my switched 12v for powering the gauges. i used the radio fuse, not sure what number that was again. i have a picture of my fuse box in my gauge install thread, you can see the fuse taps.
i used a fuse tap to get my switched 12v for powering the gauges. i used the radio fuse, not sure what number that was again. i have a picture of my fuse box in my gauge install thread, you can see the fuse taps.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,945
Likes: 13
for the dimmer put the headlight switch out of the dash. Take a test light and stick in each wire. Find the one that is hot with running lights on, head lights on, and also dims when you turn the ****. i don't remember what wire color it is.
i used a fuse tap to get my switched 12v for powering the gauges. i used the radio fuse, not sure what number that was again. i have a picture of my fuse box in my gauge install thread, you can see the fuse taps.
i used a fuse tap to get my switched 12v for powering the gauges. i used the radio fuse, not sure what number that was again. i have a picture of my fuse box in my gauge install thread, you can see the fuse taps.
Option 2 is, i have an independant potentiometer for the gauges, so i could dim them seperately of the dash lights.. while it would be tight if they dimmed together, i never dim my dash lights. So i could just set the brightness and call it good.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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i kind of like the separate dimmer idea. i never dim my dash lights either, but there are a few times that it would be nice to dim my glowshifts, those LED's are effin bright at times, could turn them way down, still be able to see the readings, but not be too bright.