That black truck with the atcual fender flare is a cab-n-chassi truck. they have a narrower frame and narrower axle THAT is why a fender flare will cover the dual tire.

On a pickup tuck, THAT will NOT work.

You will see ZERO difference in fuel economy with SRW vs DRW

You are diving a 7500lb BRICK. 2 extra tires make no difference/

Go right ahead and try and dzus fasteners . But the drivers bed side would look like this with a DUALLY fender off(becuase of the fuel doors sticking in)


I will get into more detail when I get home

O the dually picup axke is 6" wider than a SRW axle

 

I figured that but THAT does not mean that a flare of that STYLE would not work, it would just have to be wider then that. THAT was the reason I put that pic up. As I said the flare is the easy part, and I'm NOT asking about that. I have a unique solution I'm not going to get into here.

Well that's just plain not true, I'm not going to argue it, nor is it the only reason, or is that a reason not to try for every little gain possible.

Which DRW pickup axle, 10.25 or D70 and of what years? Where is the extra width added? Is the tube and axle 6" wider and the hub the same? Is the wheel mounting surface spaced out in relation to other parts? How wide is it measured at the outside of the bolts/axle flange?

All I really need is info for axle hunting, what is ideal/works for what I'm trying to do? And what trucks I'm going to find it under?

Also the D60 dually hub, tips for finding that? Anything else of something more common that will work?

 

I guess I see where you're going but not to sure on your results. things to think about is your truck lifted? Clearance for the out side tire with just a flare may not work that's one reason for the big fender. running just the inside dual is going to be narrower that the front track width, and why run spacers to make it up? the difference if fuel mileage is null as said above with the weight of the truck it doesn't matter. A friend of mine had a 96 f350 and he would take off the inside tire for winter in the snow and it made no difference in his fuel mileage. As for semi's taking off the inside tire on trailers its more for the cost of the tire to save wear than the drag. Just my .02 post up some pic's and lets see how your doing

 

No point to this post

 

Just a thought .. why not just get some rear dually adapters for your axle and take them off when you don't need them, would save you from buying a new axle. just need rear wheels tires and adapters and what ever flare you come up with.??

 

From dually D60 hubs..... All you need to do is fins a FORD 4wd Cab-n-chassis from 80-97 and steal the dually hubs off of it

 

Just need info to pick a path for my future truck spending/mods and what parts to keep an eye out for.

 

i understand your reasoning for wanting to run SRW primarily and DRW when needed.it would be ideal.if it was simple and affordable they would offer it directly as oem.sadly it isn't so.
fuel economy,traction,and ride comfort are just the few major drawbacks to running DRW.lords knows id run SRW all the time if i could.srw rules everywhere but stability and load capacity.
for those interested,you can check my economy records as srw and drw.
i can save you the time by informing you,it costs thousands more in fuel alone to run a dually vs srw over ownership duration.several thousand when talking about the extra rubber and maintenance of those 2 extra meats.

now,a pickup DRW axle:

F350 PICKUP (NOT cab n chassis) DRW 10.25 sterling rear axle.the only "TRUE" dually axle.
Greatly wider than the f250HD/F350 SRW pickup and greatly wider than the F350 cab and chassis rear.

you read correctly.the ideal sterling for our trucks (direct bolt in) is the 93-97
however,if you have 3.55 gearing,trust me when i tell you this,they didn't offer it in this particular year,dually axle (and i don't care what yard lists it as so.have them verify it.you'll never find it.)
only 4.10 option.if you sport 4.10's then don't settle.get this 2nd gen and be done.
if 3.55 you would have to grab the 1st gen (pre '93) drw sterling with the short yoke and get a conversion u-joint and older style yoke straps,but otherwise still an easy bolt in deal.i did it.

these axles are much more expensive then the srw and cab n chassis axles.where those are $100-150,these run $500-800.
then on top of that,you need the dually rims.

for you,id suggest leaving the front alone as srw style rims.
for the rear id grab a pair of arrowcraft (the only set id personally ever run) set of rear magnum dually adapters.
Adaptors, Wheels, Duality Fenders and Complete Kits - Arrowcraft :: Helping You Handle the Road for over 30 years!

grab a set of 4 drw rims,the correct lug nuts for them and run those.
when not needed,pull the adapters and run a set of srw rims out back.
you should find a local tire shop/garage willing to mount/remount un/install the adapters for you as needed.
with a full floater you won't have any wheel bearing issues with the rear adapters.your doing it for stability.
i had them in the past (junk ones) and hauled heavy daily for a couple years and still didn't have any wheel bearing issues.
even if you did,it's not the end of the world to change a wheel bearing every 5-10 years for heavens sake.

............

i have to disagree with ya on the cab n chassis axle measures 4" difference than a srw pickup axle Brad.

 

You are correct. I just went and measured both my SRW and Cab-n-chassis axle. The c-n-c is 1-2" wider(I cant get a good measurement) the SRW axle is 66" face of drum to face of drum


To the OP. you think you need a dually becaus you will be hauling a SINGLE axle trailer? That is finny right there. I have hauled NUMEROUS DUAL axle trailers weighing in at 12-15k with a single wheel pickup with NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER

 

You ran/run a 10.25 SRW with DRW adapters?

OK stupid question, DRW wheels are hub centric. Is the hub on a DRW 10.25 that hub centric diameter all the way down the length of the hub or stepped up just outside the drum like a SRW axle?

 

The axle under my '59 is from a '92 2wd dually pickup and the axle under my '92 4wd f350 cab/chassis are exactly the same . Both sterling 10 1/4s, but the axles and axle tubes are considerably longer on the dually pickup version.. I run 'toledo' adapters on the front wheels to convert the old '53-'66 ford better idea 6 lug f350 setup. I cut the 6 lug flange off and bolted th adaptor to the brake drum's 8 on 6.5 pattern. The adapters are high quality cast steel from wheeladapter.com. Cost me 450.00 for the pair. If I remember correctly they measure about 4" in additional offset. A proper dually pickup axle centers the rear inner wheels in any normal rear fender. Keep in mind the early dually pickups seemed to use the typical 8' styleside box with huge fiberglass 'flares' screwed or bolted on. Perhaps an earlier bed with some bolt on dually conversion fenders? I seem to recall JC Whitney selling the kit. Heck, I've even seen suburbans with that kit........Still think easiest way to do the task at hand is to run drw pickup axle, inner wheels when single and the screw on fender and outer duals when going dually. Cordless drill and a lug whench and a jack, and you're good. The railroad crews here run pickups with dually wheels as singles on all 4 corners and I just saw a fedex stepvan, dually wheels on all corners, again as singles. Guess the fedex van uses a dually pickup style axle or perhaps adapters. It's not a new concept. Think of the dodge power wagon for about 25 years. With that hub sticking out, no mazda miata is gonna pull in too close at the grocery store either.......

 

A cab-n-chassis axle with duals on it will NOT work in a pickup, Not wide enough

As for back handed comments? I am just trying to show you what will work and what will not. I did a TON of research before converting my truck to a dually, I am trying to share my experiences

 

I'm just glad to have stumbled onto a group that knows and even cares about the differences between dually type axles. I have owned perhaps 25 ford trucks over the last 42 years. Only one of them was a half ton, a '48 'monkey face'. I traded a woodworkers block plane for it and later sold it for 35 bucks. I have spent most of my time on FTE in the 57-60 section, and really enjoy my friends there, but not too many into the bigger stuff. The subject of this thread is of great interest to me.

 

Ok maybe I'll regret asking but I'll bite, why?

 

i did yes.but the ones i had didn't have anything for a lip to hold the center hole dead center.bad mistake on my part.didn't hurt anything but my rims,but it sucked.

no.even the drw sterling pickup axle tapers down on the hub very quickly just like the srw version.


he explained why.the axle isn't wide enough.you cannot set an f350 cab n chassis rear under a pickup axle and run duallies.you could move the spring hangers back out where they belong to match your pickup,but you'll be back to where you were.
the reason a cab n chassis can fit duallies with their axle used is because they run skinnier springs and their frame rails spacing is closer together.this is why those rims fit under there.the cab n chassis isn't a pickup.

an f350 cab n chassis axle is of 0% use to you and there is nothing to be done (that would make any sense) to make this axle of any use for what your trying to accomplish.trust Brad.he's correct.