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I put a bracket master II cam in my truck and followed all instructions. When I turned the key and it was hard to start. I turned the dizzy clockwise and it ran but I had to hold the gas. I looked up the 400 plug wire order and moved them. Now it won't do anything. I think the crank was not at tdc but 180 over.
How much lifter preload was there ? Did you check push rod length ? Most if not all aftermarket cams are ground on a different base circle. So your length could come up too long making too much preload making it hard if not impossible to start. I keep preload in the .020-.030 range in any hydro lifter/cam I put in.
Did a top end rebuild on mine once-dilligently marked leads-still attached to cap, but when I realigned evertyhing and put dizzy back in I was one lead out rotationally. I obviously didn't pay attention to where the dizzy was, and the rotor was one contact around form "factory"
Flattened the battery wondering why it wouldnt start properly.
Reset everything after that and started first pop.
Agree with Mark A. probably shouldnt have to check lifter preload (on hydraulic lifters) but as I had one with far to much (found on aforesaid top end job) I double checked when I had to rebuild engine, deck was skimmed anyway, and after checking every lifter actually found one that had virtually no pre-load. Cheated on that one and skimmed a little off the bottom of rocker trunion base. I was not pulling it all apart to do something with the heads.
sorry to sound ignorant, but what do you mean one lead out? I'll check it all again, then pull timing cover off and make sure about the crank and Cam and dizzy are all fine.
Take every lead off and move it around one position. OP must have had the dizzy rotated enough so that they were in the correct spot. When I refitted it I thought I had it there but obviously not.
ok got her timed and running. but I still have to hold the gas down a lil bit to keep it running. and it starts burning oil and smoking white smoke out the passenger side exhaust. would it be the cam is too big for the torque converter causing low idle? and I'm thinking bad valley pan seal causing the oil burning.
.. Blue and white smoke sounds like a problem with the the gasket between the intake manifold and head not sealing properly allowing coolant (white smoke) and oil (blue smoke) to be sucked into the head intake port...
.. As mentioned above, depending on base circle and lift of cam, rocker arms may need shimming or pushrod length changed... a cam with split lifts may benefit from intake rockers shimmed differently from exhaust rockers... also, what is cam duration at .050" lift? Maybe cam too big for stock compression ratio, requiring more throttle opening to keep it idling/running?
.. The cam size/torque converter stall RPM could also be a mismatch, but wouldn't cause any of the problems you describe, just weak out of the hole performance/bogging on takeoff... adjusting the spring rate at which the carb. secondaries kick in by vacuum may cure most or all of that...
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