Turn Signal Cancel Switch #?
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 2
Turn Signal Cancel Switch #?
Can't find this plastic piece for the life of me....
Mine was driving me crazy trying to get my signals to cancel and finally I came on here to find a photo. My plastic piece is there but the long top and bottom feet have been broken off... I only have the two small feet at the top and bottom, not the longer "arms."
Anyone have a part #? Rockauto only sells the whole switch and the other ones I'm finding are only for 1973/74 trucks?
Planning on using the pins in my grant adapter... do they work OK or should I also try to find the cam that actuates this switch?
Mine was driving me crazy trying to get my signals to cancel and finally I came on here to find a photo. My plastic piece is there but the long top and bottom feet have been broken off... I only have the two small feet at the top and bottom, not the longer "arms."
Anyone have a part #? Rockauto only sells the whole switch and the other ones I'm finding are only for 1973/74 trucks?
Planning on using the pins in my grant adapter... do they work OK or should I also try to find the cam that actuates this switch?
Rusty Roller
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,423
Likes: 5
From: Santa Cruz Mountains
You'll need to find the correct one for your year but here is one for a '77.
Those "arms" are used to cancel the signal and they break....
Turn Signal Cam | AutoZone.com
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Those "arms" are used to cancel the signal and they break....
Turn Signal Cam | AutoZone.com
.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Just a word of advice...it's really hard to install these properly. The wires coming off the cam need to snake through the switch very tightly, and it's difficult to get that to happen with solder joints in the path, without getting something pinched.
In my experience, if the cam is broken, it's best just to replace the entire switch. The clearance in this area is minimal, so even if you got it to work, it's likely a little close for comfort.
In my experience, if the cam is broken, it's best just to replace the entire switch. The clearance in this area is minimal, so even if you got it to work, it's likely a little close for comfort.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 2
Just a word of advice...it's really hard to install these properly. The wires coming off the cam need to snake through the switch very tightly, and it's difficult to get that to happen with solder joints in the path, without getting something pinched.
In my experience, if the cam is broken, it's best just to replace the entire switch. The clearance in this area is minimal, so even if you got it to work, it's likely a little close for comfort.
In my experience, if the cam is broken, it's best just to replace the entire switch. The clearance in this area is minimal, so even if you got it to work, it's likely a little close for comfort.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 2
I'm pulling my hair out with this one. I got the new cam and investiagated the wiring situation. I was able to route the new wires the same way and make my solder joints at the very bottom (right by the horn mechanism.) I figured I would be golden.
Put her back together and now here is what I have:
Running lights work all the way around.
4 way flashers all work, except right rear.
Left turn signal does not work on front.
Right turn signal does not work on rear.
Brake light does not work on right rear.
All of these lights worked fine yesterday except my turn signals didn't cancel.
Any bright ideas before I pony up $50 for a new switch?
Put her back together and now here is what I have:
Running lights work all the way around.
4 way flashers all work, except right rear.
Left turn signal does not work on front.
Right turn signal does not work on rear.
Brake light does not work on right rear.
All of these lights worked fine yesterday except my turn signals didn't cancel.
Any bright ideas before I pony up $50 for a new switch?
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 2
Got it figured out... those little paper clip looking things on the back of the replacement cam come flush with the cam. They won't make contact with the pads underneath unless they are bent up slightly (they should press themselves against the pads.)
Took me a long time to figure that out but once I did -- everything now works absolutely perfectly.
Actually took the truck for a little maiden voyage. Made it 3 miles before I realized that the oil/temp/alt gauges weren't working. Just something else to tackle tomorrow I guess.....
Took me a long time to figure that out but once I did -- everything now works absolutely perfectly.
Actually took the truck for a little maiden voyage. Made it 3 miles before I realized that the oil/temp/alt gauges weren't working. Just something else to tackle tomorrow I guess.....
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