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Door Seal issue/ question

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Old May 21, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #1  
Wbruiser2's Avatar
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Door Seal issue/ question

I replaced all the door and window seals on my 76 except the vent windows. I used the door seals from DC which worked out great. My issue is, when driving down the road the wind noise is horribly loud. It's not the typical vent window whistle. It sounds like the door isn't closed all the way but they are and alignment is dead on. I thought maybe it was an issue with the seal so I rolled down the window, shut the door, and fired up a stogey and blew smoke between the door frame and cab. None entered the cab so I have to assume the doors are "sealed". I'm pretty sure the driver's side door came from a 78 or 79 and I noticed on LMC and DC's sites that there is a seal that actually goes on the door frame. Has any one else had a similiar issue and fixed it with this 30 something $ seal?
It didn't have them when I started and I just don't remember if it was that loud before or not (probably because I was focused on stumbles, misses, etc.. lol).
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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The top door seal does help a little bit, but I also have replaced every seal on my 77 with DC stuff and I still have wind noise. The way the doors are made with a gap between the door and cab can produce a wind noise even if no water or smoke gets in. I would guess there is some noise coming in from the vents if the seals are old or id the vent handle is wore a bit. I have thought about taking some foam insulation and stuff in places and drive down the road to see if I can narrow down areas for wind noise and then focus on that area.
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 03:29 PM
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Put the top of the door seal on, on the very edge of the door frame. That shut mine up nice and tight. Good luck. Also, my back sliding glass was slightly open but looked closed and sounded like a door whistle and drove me nuts until I figured it out, so check sliding back glass if you have it.
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 06:05 PM
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You may have to move your striker pin out a bit. There are two notches for your door latch. Replaced the seals on my truck and same issue. Then I realized I was only latching on the first click of the door. After adjusting the striker no wind noise and flush shutting doors.
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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74 F350 SCS
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Originally Posted by co425
You may have to move your striker pin out a bit. There are two notches for your door latch. Replaced the seals on my truck and same issue. Then I realized I was only latching on the first click of the door. After adjusting the striker no wind noise and flush shutting doors.
X2 of what he said!
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 09:46 PM
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I have to replace all my door seals too...what's DC that people have mentioned?
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rottenstock
I have to replace all my door seals too...what's DC that people have mentioned?
Dennis carpenter
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Ahh, Thanks for the info...

Do you know anything about "Fairchild weatherstripping"?

Only ask because I found:

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...LD_KF3002.html and
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...LD_KF2009.html

looks like good complete kits... minus the parts that go up and around the window.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 12:20 AM
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Door seals are pretty simple. All are glue in's on our trucks. Just make sure you use good weather stripping adhesive. 3M is preferable. You'll also need some small chemical brushes to brush it on the cab and the seals.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 06:52 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by co425
You may have to move your striker pin out a bit. There are two notches for your door latch. Replaced the seals on my truck and same issue. Then I realized I was only latching on the first click of the door. After adjusting the striker no wind noise and flush shutting doors.
I'll give this a try when I get a chance. I hope it's that simple but i think they're latching on the second click already but I appreciate the suggestion and will experiment with it.

For anyone else replacing door seals, this is a simple how to video and the key thing is, let the adhesive tack up a little before putting them on. The 3M (black, not yellow) stuff as mentioned works great.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #11  
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Take a look at the fender to door alignment, not the actual body line alignment but looking from the top down, is the rear edge of the fender further in compared to the front edge of the door? If it is, then try moving it out so that the rear edge of the fender is slightly further out than the front edge of the door. Also, the rear edge of the door should be flush or just slightly further out than the front edge of the cab.

What we're trying to achieve here is smooth airflow. If the air hits the front edge of the door then this will contribute to wind noise.

These are the things we use to look at when I worked at the Ford dealer many moons ago.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by skidoodave
Take a look at the fender to door alignment, not the actual body line alignment but looking from the top down, is the rear edge of the fender further in compared to the front edge of the door? If it is, then try moving it out so that the rear edge of the fender is slightly further out than the front edge of the door. Also, the rear edge of the door should be flush or just slightly further out than the front edge of the cab.

What we're trying to achieve here is smooth airflow. If the air hits the front edge of the door then this will contribute to wind noise.

These are the things we use to look at when I worked at the Ford dealer many moons ago.
I'll have to give my 77 a good look over again to see where my wind noise is coming from. It isn't bad, but there. I figured it was the top of the door more than anything. I don't have the top of the door seal.
 
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