Ok, i will update my original post of needing help when i finally figure out this problem... I will start new because i believe it will result in less confusion.. 2 weeks or so ago my CC started running very poor and sounded like it had a miss and little to no power, got it home couldnt pull the codes because the scanner i had was not working, today i received my new replacement (thank you aeroforce for taking care of your customers!!!) so i set up the gauge and pulled the codes, i got p0344 which i have researched to be a cam position sensor code..? and also p0237 which i have also researched to be a turbo boost sensor a circuit low input...? neither of which make a bit of sense to me as to why my truck sounds as if its either lost an injector or two... or....? but my truck runs absolutely horrible!!! before i received my new gauge i went ahead and replaced the cam position sensor with one from my local international dealer, i don't believe the cam sensor is to blame because before i bought a new one i swapped the sensor from my good running 97 and nothing changed, but i bought a replacement just because.. so after this long winded post i am hopefull and know that team FTE will get me on my way!!
I am starting to think this issue may be oil related as i got no faulty injector codes, and i suspected injectors or oil from the moment it acted up...
i am all ears and willing to try anything to get my CC back on the road!!!
Thanks guys!!

 

Have you started with the easy stuff? VC gaskets. VC pigtails? UVCH?

 

yes sir, they are sitting in my living room waiting for a closer inspection, but they look as good as new as far a burnt pins or broken bits go.. the only thing i am concerned and unsure of is how much oil should be present in the connections of the uhvc between them and the vcs and how much if any oil should be present in the connection between the vcs and pigtails..? i got excited today well working on the truck when i found a wire exposed through the harness in the rear drivers side pigtail, but it turned out to be just the ground... i taped it up real well and inspected all other wires in that pigtail a good 6" plus back from the connector and found no sign of any other wire's insulation compromised, then reinstalled everything and no change still horribly running and check engine light, also another question, how much oil if any should be present in the connection between uvch and injector's i mean in the plug itself to the injector, it appears since there is no rubber or seals in the connector that it is except able to have a little oil in those connectors...?
Thanks

 

If it were my truck I would start with all the wiring. Ohm the injectors from the IDM to see I you have any troubles. Check the Fuel bowl harness and the IPR wiring. Make sure the tin nut is tight on the IPR. My UVCH's have 0 oil. Not sure if a little would cause your issue. There male connector has rubber around it keep them tight and clean.

 

i know the male connector on the pigtail has a rubber, that is my concern, that so much oil is inside the connections of the uvch that its literally pushing through the vc. i dont know if its my issue either, also concerned with oil in the connectors to the injectors.. but i am loosing patients with this problem, i thought for sure reading the codes would point me in the right direction when my truck is running so awful, but apparently things aren't going to work out like that for me........ i have inspected the wiring pretty dam well, i don't see oil or fuel leaking anywhere, ipr icp seem to be dry and tight.... i am going to clean and dry all connections of the vc's and uvch's and then run the truck with vc's off to see the injectors are firing, but that may be a worthless test since i got no injector codes. i hate to even let the truck run for more then 2 seconds its running so awful..
any other input or ideas/advice would be great!!
The skies have opened up here for the day so i don't think i'll be out working on the truck today, but i will gladly except some good R&D!!

 

Run the buzz test and see if you can hear something different then after the buzz test scan for codes.

 

OK!! maybe i'll get out in this crappy rain today and throw the vc gaskets back on.. what do you suggest for cleaning the oil off my connections, just any electrical cleaner will be fine? i just don't want any of the oil to effect a test our still be a concern as to if it's related to my problem.. thanks!

 

Yes, electrical cleaner works good.

 

Also the P0237 is a bit unusual. The MAP sensor uses vref which is 5 volts supplied by the PCM to power it and also some other sensors in the truck. If the MAP is messing with that vref voltage (shorting) all kinds of weird things could occur. I would unplug the MAP 3 wire electrical connection and see what happens.

 

I kinda disregarded that code because when the issue arouse I had the map sensor unplugged already and had been running it that way for some time so figured that's where the code came from but, I don't know, next time I start it up I will try with the map unplugged or I could swap my map out of my good running 97..? What do you think about that bit of info?
Thanks Jim!

 

When I did my SD HPOP, I drove home with the MAP unhooked. Drive like crap and wouldn't fuel right. I you've been driving with it undone, I think you've found your starting point.

 

ok, so new info!! ran the truck with the valve covers off the whole passenger side is died, no injectors spitting oil on that side, well running i unplugged the icp no change. i shut her down and did ran the buzz test, heard all 8 buzz clearly all sounded the same, i did it twice, got codes p0261 which i believe injector circuit low cylinder 1, code p1271 which i believe is also related to cylinder 1 and p1277 which i believe to be cylinder 7 also received a code p1280 which is icp circuit out of range low.

so with these codes and info can you guys help me move in the right direction, i'm not sure if i got icp code because i unplugged it well it was running but i do have a good running 97 i can swap the icp and or idm one at a time to see if that helps, but i hope now that we have good info somebody can help me get the ol' CC back in action
Thanks guys!!

 

ok, i swapped the idm from my cc which is the one running poorly and put it into my standard cab which runs fine and bingo.. the reg. cab ran exactly the same as the cc with the idm.. so i believe i am safe to swap the now known to be good idm into my cc and wait for a replacement idm for the reg. cab right. do i run any risk of frying this idm or at 172k did the idm just die of natural cause, thanks guys.. i am going to start putting everything back together and hopefully before i turn and burn with the new idm you guys will have cleared me for take off!!

 

Good job diagnosing! I have no idea about the IDM though.

 

After a nice long hard test drive all seems to be running well!! Now I gotta decide where to get an idm also reman or new...?..!