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what exactly is it for? i have a buddy at work who races fords and he has a stud dirdle he payed 300 for he says. he said it will make my bottom end stronger. hes willing to trade for a extra edlebrock intake i have. i was gonna sell my intake on craiglist for 150 or should i trade for this stud girdle thing
They (stud girdles) certainly have their place, which is mostly in racing applications, read high rpm's....they do tighten up the bottom end and prevent "cap walk".
But in a low rpm truck application they're kind of overkill, you'll get points for the "cool factor", but still overkill, in my opinion.
Besides, on a FE block (which i believe you're referring to) the skirts go well below the cranks centerline to begin with, so a stud girdle is somewhat redundant on a FE (unless you're seeing rpm's north of 6,000) but otherwise there's already plenty of built in strength due to the nature of the FE's deep skirt design.
If you're seriously considering a stud girdle i'd take that money and hand it over to a machinist instead, have the block/caps drilled and tapped for cross bolts, a la the 406 and 427 FE's.
A stud girdle ties the main caps together for added strength need at high RPMs when the piston/con rod assembly's dynamic weight is slinging round and round. A mild imbalance is generally not revealed at 4500 RPM whereas at 8,000 RPM or higher it is multiplied many times over. A casting flaw could be revealed with the main cap or mains cracking and a ventilated engine block ensues.
For comparison, take a look at an FE block and a 302/351W block. On the FE, the crank's centerline is above the oil pan rail and the main caps are inserted INTO the block. Now look at the 302/351W.. the crank's centerline is even with the oil pan rail and the main caps are bolted TO the block and have very little side-to-side support.
FE.. note the deeply set crank:
302/351W with a stud girdle:
A 302/351W is where a stud girdle makes more sense. On the FE, Ford's solution were cross-bolted main caps on... the reknown 427FE side oiler. The pic above uses aftermarket caps and is cross-bolted. A mod that can be done for a race engine... no stud girdle needed. In fact, I know of only one company offering a stud girdle for the FE series.
I know of only one company offering a stud girdle for the FE series.
There's a bloke from down under selling these on ebay (only sold one in 7yrs) i would guess you could have these CNC'd state side for a comparable price.
Here's the link, his ebay pic kinda freaks me out...looks like a terrorist.
Yea, your "buddy" was tryin to pull a fast one, at least a little bit....you don't need the stud girdle, but he obviously needs/wants the intake.
Good deal for him, not so good for you...it does have monetary value equal to your intake, but if you don't need it, it might as well be scrap, just sell the intake on CL, more ppl are looking for a FE intake than a stud girdle, trust me.
Yea, your "buddy" was tryin to pull a fast one, at least a little bit....you don't need the stud girdle, but he obviously needs/wants the intake.
Good deal for him, not so good for you...it does have monetary value equal to your intake, but if you don't need it, it might as well be scrap, just sell the intake on CL, more ppl are looking for a FE intake than a stud girdle, trust me.
2x... big time. Might oughtta rethink his "buddyness".
Btw, the swap meet guy I got my Edelbrock FE intake from said he can sell three or four aluminum FE intakes at every Good Guys show he attends.
can someone tell me the difference between the edelbrock performer 390 and the edelbrock performer rpm? i have a guy comin over after work to look at my intake and he wanted to know the difference but i didnt know what to say