HardBlocd Block Filler
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From: Eureka, Ca.
HardBlocd Block Filler
Has anyone used HardBlock Block filler? From what I have read so far It is meant to fill the bottom of the water jacket. The short fill is for street/strip applications. What do you guys think?
Post Fiend
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From: Iowa
HardBlocd Block Filler
From what I understand it's only for very high horsepower drag race only engines that get cooled down between each run. It can also be used to compensate for overbored race engines. At any rate, it serves no practical purpose in a street engine, IMO.
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HardBlocd Block Filler
Read this:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=148598 to get an idea of how I got this idea and why.
Post Fiend
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From: Iowa
HardBlocd Block Filler
After reading that, I think you're on the right track, and the hard block might help, as long as it doesnt interfere with cooling of the cylinder walls.
I have a few suggestions, which you may or may not have thought of yet:
1. ARP bolts everywhere (mains, rods, heads, etc.)
2. 391 FT block. The FT block has high grade alloy iron with manganese, silicon, and other alloys to improve durability. It also has thicker main caps and webs than FE blocks. From what I understand, FT blocks were partially cast from 427 molds, and have the bosses for crossbolts. The FT engine you get should come with the forged crankshaft. Just get it rebalanced for internal balance.
The FT is a stronger block than the FE, and I think it could handle what you're going to do to it.
I have a few suggestions, which you may or may not have thought of yet:
1. ARP bolts everywhere (mains, rods, heads, etc.)
2. 391 FT block. The FT block has high grade alloy iron with manganese, silicon, and other alloys to improve durability. It also has thicker main caps and webs than FE blocks. From what I understand, FT blocks were partially cast from 427 molds, and have the bosses for crossbolts. The FT engine you get should come with the forged crankshaft. Just get it rebalanced for internal balance.
The FT is a stronger block than the FE, and I think it could handle what you're going to do to it.
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From: Maple Ridge BC Canada
HardBlocd Block Filler
The block filler really helps to stabilize thin wall blocks..eg small and big block chevys and 429/460 Fords..The FE blocks are thick wall (reads heavy) and very stable. Thats why Ford was able to bore 352 blocks to 428's...Its an expense that will give you very little in return.....D44HD
Laughing Gas
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From: yes
HardBlocd Block Filler
not true, chevy's had the thick walls, very few "heavy" FE blocks can take the 428 bore. One magazine had to test 11 FE blocks to find one that could go to standard 428 size. Ford had better casting ability and was able to cast blocks with thinner cylinder walls. the FE strength came from the skirt which held the block stable better
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Laughing Gas
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From: yes
HardBlocd Block Filler
Originally posted by Randyb12
To fill or not to fill?
To fill or not to fill?
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Senior User
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From: Maple Ridge BC Canada
HardBlocd Block Filler
FE427TP No dissrespect intended but I have to disagree with you on the chevy thing, not a chevy block out there that can be safley bored more than .060.(bowtie blocks asside) The 352 can (even if it takes 11 different blocks) can be bored .130...The most common reason for not being able to go that big is core shift...not that the walls arent cast thick enough.
That being said, a 428 (352 bored .130 over) is now a thinwall block. I believe randyb12 is talking about a 390....d44hd
That being said, a 428 (352 bored .130 over) is now a thinwall block. I believe randyb12 is talking about a 390....d44hd
Lead Driver
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From: Ohio
HardBlocd Block Filler
Okay, yes it is used to stabilize the cylinders. Be it a thick or thin wall, but more for thinwalls.
It is more needed at the TOP of the cylinder then the bottom. There is NO compression or heavy loading near the bottom and besides with the webbing down there....there is no need for it.
Now, for a street application, DON'T do it. You will heat soak and NEVER get it to cool. With water only passing around the top of the block once the bottom heats up you will NOT get it cool until you shut it off. Therefore it is only a drag race type application.
I have my race car 428 filled to the bottom of the water pump holes. That way I still get an inch or so of water flowing under the heads. This really helps when you have to drive it around alot and then go rounds with it during the heat of the day. I really keep an eye on temps though, so as to keep it from soaking and not be able to bring it back down.
Larry
It is more needed at the TOP of the cylinder then the bottom. There is NO compression or heavy loading near the bottom and besides with the webbing down there....there is no need for it.
Now, for a street application, DON'T do it. You will heat soak and NEVER get it to cool. With water only passing around the top of the block once the bottom heats up you will NOT get it cool until you shut it off. Therefore it is only a drag race type application.
I have my race car 428 filled to the bottom of the water pump holes. That way I still get an inch or so of water flowing under the heads. This really helps when you have to drive it around alot and then go rounds with it during the heat of the day. I really keep an eye on temps though, so as to keep it from soaking and not be able to bring it back down.
Larry