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I just finished an egr delete/oil cooler on an 03. I noticed when I started truck after 10 min extension was at op temp just from idle. I drove ran great but under any load it starts to overheat. Under light throttle temps are kept at norm by cooling fan running. For giggles I changed thermostat doubting that was the issue. Drove again same deal. Upper rad hose hot. Lower Luke warm. Both hoses feel like no pressure in the system. I really think the water pump is going out. Is the any way other than squeezing the hose to see if the water pump is putting out pressure. As always the advice given is highly respected thank you all.:
First off what are the actual temps we are talking about in degrees F and how are you determining them. The dash gauges are next to useless for diagnostics.
As far as the hoses they are supposed to be hotter on the top hose than the bottom, and the feel well the system vents at 16 PSI and normally operates between 10 and 12 psi.
Yeah I know that the stock gauges are not reliable. I know the system pressurizes to 16 but that is a combination of water temp and water pump.
I started my truck brought temps to 188 ect no fan kicked on and hoses are firm. Usually when a pump is going out it leaks out the bottom hole. No leakage as of now.
How would checking the temps with different gauges help me determine if the water pump is good or bad?
Do you have striaght water in or 50/50 mix , if just water drain and get the proper mix,dont leave just water for too long as it will rust in a hurry.OH and was that a New OEM thermostate.
Yeah the coolant is 50/50 with distiller water. Thermostat is autozone however being the symptoms are the same before and after I'm sure it's ok.
I performed the work for a guy who blew his egr cooler. The build went extremely smooth. I Also installed a coolant filter kit. Truck started on second crank. I am beginning to believe this problem existed prior to me working it but it was masked by all the other issues.
Seems to me there are a couple of problems. Low pressure in the coolant system would allow coolant to boil at a lower temp but wouldn't increase the temps. Maybe cap spring is weak or cap not sealing on a warped degas bottle, or bottle has a crack on the backside top.
Increased temp could be the pump, restricted air or coolant flow, or what they were getting at with trying a different gauge, it's not really overheating at all. If you're reading from OBDII does the oil temp come up with ECT? In your first post you said "after 10 min extension was at OP temp" if that's trans temp and you were looking at the dash gauge that would be normal for my truck.
I did inspect the degas tank at least there were no fluid leaks. Definitely not trans temp I drove multiple times over two days. I started my truck next to his and after twenty minutes mine hit 168 at idle. This one at least on the gauge showed mid range at 12 min. My upper and lower hoses were hard to squeeze obviously accounting for pressure in the system. The other truck soft like squeezing a water balloon.
I have thought maybe head gasket as well however I had a gasket go bad and my truck over pressurized and puked coolant. Could it still be a HG if there is no evidence of blow by at the degas cap