Water pump

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Mar 30, 2007 | 01:18 AM

Benaghetto

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From: Liberty, MO

Water pump

What are some sure signs its probly time to change the a waterpump? I believe mine is starting to give a bit of a squeek, tho its not full time. My trucks got the 3.0 V6 with 152K. I've been watching my temp pretty close since its been warming up here in KC and I've definately noticed that the temp dont really stay a constant temp all the time. My temp sensor is only a year old. I flushed/back flushed the cooling system back in august as well. I dont see any reason for why its not staying as constant as it usually has. I've already called around and I can get a standard replacement for $15 and a lifetime warrantied reman for $29.99. I dont think either sound like bad prices.

Also, I replaced the thermostat a while back as well. But I'm wondering what's the gain if I went from the stock 195 (I think thats stock) to say a 180????????

Thanks in advance. I might be taking a road trip to richmond VA and at 1000 each way I'd like to run as cool as possible.

Mar 30, 2007 | 05:49 AM

oldgoat49

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From: wichita kansas

With those miles then a water pump could be a worthwhile investment although I wouldn't be looking at the cheapest one. Too much trouble to change to go cheap on. Is the noise from the pump for sure? If the temp isn't stanying steady I would think more about low coolant level or a thermostat. Also I would stay with the 195 thermostat. The computers are designed for that temp and if it only goes to 180 it will be trying to adjust other settings for that temp.

Mar 30, 2007 | 08:15 AM

frankenbroncoII

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From: north carolina

before i bought a water pump i would start simple. change hoses, new rad cap, have the rad flushed and clean. and start with new clean coolent. usualy the water pump goes bad if the seal blows out and water runs out the weep hole. or if you have searious bad water that eats away at the impeller.

also keep in mine that the radiator is a cooling tower. once the thermostat opens water flows from the top of engine to the rad down thru it and back to the water pump. if water doesnt flow thru it, it cant cool. i have seen times on ppls cars that have run hot and rad be full but you open the drain ****, and not a thing comes out bc of all the trash in it. unfortunatly dirt falls down do to gravity and collects at the bottom of the rad and can slow or stop the flow of cooled water to the engine. thats why the bottom radiator hose has a spring looking thing in it. its to keep the water pump for colasping the hose under vacume. (the water pump actully pulls water, not push it)

Mar 30, 2007 | 03:56 PM

Benaghetto

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From: Liberty, MO

Last august (7 months ago) I completely flushed the system, w/o thermostat in to clear engine as well, w/o a hitch. My drain on the bottom of the rad opens/closes fine and clean water comes out. The water in there is green, not a brown or orange that'd show signs of rust in the system. I have noticed that where the shaft enters the pump case that its moist on the case and has dirt on that spot. No water coming from the weep hole. I'm thinking my squeaking is the bearing having had water on it and pushed the grease off. When standing and listening to the engine run it sounds like its coming from dead center on the front of the engine.

Mar 30, 2007 | 04:01 PM

frankenbroncoII

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From: north carolina

then i would change the pump. also stick to the 190 tstat. some ecm are picky about what temp they kick off the open loop cycle. (open loop is how the engine runs when first started cold, it by passes the o2 sensors and runs a lil rich like old carb engines with chokes. if it doesnt cycle off open loop it will continue to run rich with poor performance and possible to stop up the cats.) so if you lower the temp the engine runs cooler but if the ecm doesnt like it, it could cause problems.