When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think I have used every bushing Moog makes in replacing the worn out bushings on my Aerostar. Some are a pain to change and a press is definitely needed unless you get really creative.
Stop trying to buy the who control arm. You can replace just the bushings.
A salvage yard unit is probably worn out too, and it a lot of work to find out if you are pulling a good one or not. Only way to go is new.
All you need to buy is Moog upper control arm bushings. 99f350sd gave you a direct link above, but I will share it again anyway. Ford Aerostar 4WD 1996, Moog Suspension Parts. $60.12 part#MOOG-K8615
The bolts on the control arm are totally rusted and all the mechanics are afraid to try and remove it. One person was talking about making a special tool and replacing the bushing without removing the control arm.
E99Z-3082-A (replaced E69Z-3082-A) .. Right Upper Control Arm / Obsolete
1986/97 Aerostar / Last MSRP: $553.79 / Dealer net cost: $369.19.
B & B AUTO PARTS in Bronx NY has 1 = 718-892-1186.
USD INC. in Phoenix AZ has 2 = 602-253-7111.
------------------------------------------------------ E99Z-3083-A (replaced E69Z-3083-A) .. Left Upper Control Arm / Obsolete
1986/97 Aerostar / Last MSRP: $400.47 / Dealer net cost: $266.98.
JIM DOBSON FORD in Winamac IN has 1 = 574-946-3117.
B & B AUTO PARTS in Bronx NY has 2.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 3 = 800-543-4959.
VINTAGE PARTS in Beaver Dam WI has 77 = 877-846-8243.
Are you talking about the long bolts that hold the UCA assembly to the frame rail? They're pretty hefty, and will take a lot of torque to loosen up. I would soak the bolt heads and nuts in some kind of penetrating oil for a day or two and use a long breaker bar. I think the bolt heads are 19mm, and the nuts are 24mm. Apply direct steady pressure on the nuts through the breaker bar and an extension if necessary, and they should release.
The bushings are pressed into the control arm mounting frames, and while it may be possible to remove the nuts on the ends of the pivot rod, I don't think they will be able to remove the bushings with the arm assembly still bolted to the frame.
It seems that the nuts that hold the control arm are welded into the chassis and trying to remove the control arm might damage the chassis. That's why no one wants to try to remove it.
If the nuts (N800237-S in the diagram) are welded to the chassis, then you have to turn the bolts by their heads from above. You may have to use a box end wrench, as that area may be too tight for a socket. Slip a big pipe over the other end to get leverage; you only need to loosen it with the pipe. Note that two of those long bolts also hold the cross member in place, so work on one side at a time.
If you support the nut with the 24mm socket and a big lever arm, you should be able to torque on the bolt without putting too much stress on the frame rail.
If the frame rail is really that rusted, maybe you should consider repairing it, after removing the nuts.
It seems that the nuts that hold the control arm are welded into the chassis and trying to remove the control arm might damage the chassis. That's why no one wants to try to remove it.
I've done this before. It seems your mechanics are incompetent. Spray it with PB Blaster, leave it overnight, then spray it again and then break them free with a breaker bar or impact gun. If they are so rusted that they won't come, then your frame would have to be rusted through and you would be looking at scrapping the vehicle, not fixing it.
All you need to do is put on your big boy pants, and take those nuts off (they are NOT welded to the frame, you just unscrew them from underneath).
I've done this before. It seems your mechanics are incompetent. Spray it with PB Blaster, leave it overnight, then spray it again and then break them free with a breaker bar or impact gun.
I realize that a lot of people do not have access to one, but now is also the time to put just a little heat to it from an acetylene torch. The heat, along with some good penetrating oil can work wonders.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.