2012 E350 12 passenger, 5.4L

I've had the van since mid February. I bought it used from Car-Max and we really like it. I did my first oil change on Wednesday. The filter felt spongy as I tightened it, but didn't think much of it.

I get home yesterday and my wife was in town in the van...I see a puddle of oil on the garage floor and call her immediatley. It was maybe a 1/4 cup (a lot, but not a dump). I'm not one to overreact, so I tell her that as long as no lights or bells come on to bring it home.

When she came home I take a look and the gasket from the filter is popped out in an area. Oil was still in the crosshatches, but not by more than 1/8". I checked the filter I took off, and sure enough, it had no gasket on it. So, that's my diagnosis.

Now my questions...

Think I can pull that filter off without draining the pan? Maybe even just loosen it enough to take the old gasket out. The filter seems higher than the pan so I think it should work. It would be messy and a pain to drain it to a pan, pour from pan back to big jug, and then back to the engine.

Although, if I go the jug route, I could measure better. But I could just use the dipstick too.

PS: I was happy to find the filter had the great mounting location and wasn't a PIA to get to, like mounted on the block.

Thanks for insight and advice!
Nathan

 

Am I missing something here? Why do you need or want to drop the pan--assuming you mean the oil pan

 

Just take that one back off, and screw on another one. Make sure the new one has a gasket this time, and make sure there isn't one gasket stuck on the oil filter flange of the engine block.

 

Sorry, for the "pan" confusion. Do I need to drain the oil from the engine (to an oil change pan) before removing the oil filter...or can I take the filter off without draining the oil?

 

No problem changing the filter; you will have to add enough oil to fill the new filter and make up your losses. The remaining oil will just sit in the pan.

I have done this in the past when the dealer put a non-Motorcraft filter on my van and I got a knocking at startup because of a bad anti drainback valve.

And I *once* put on a new filter with the old gasket stuck on the surface without checking and proceeded to pump about 3 quarts of oil onto my driveway on initial startup. Good thing we have a cat and had a couple big bags of kitty litter in the house.... I will NEVER again change an oil filter without confirming that the old filter gasket has been accounted for. (I will also note that when I was 19 years old, in 1971, I changed the oil the first time in my old Austin Healey 3000, which had a cartridge filter in a can with O-ring gasket, did not get it seated properly, and pumped out about 3 quarts of oil into my girlfriend's parents' driveway...deja vu)

No worries in the slightest. By the way, use Motorcraft filters whenever possible (do a search on this website). Good luck with your van,
George

 

Thanks YoGeorge!

I'm not too brand loyal, I will look up the Motorcraft info. However, the motorcraft filter I took off was the one that left the gasket.

My local autozone runs specials of filters and 5 qts of oil for $20. So I usually just get whatever's on special. Now with the 5.4 though I am sure to get the extra qt.

Thanks again!

 

In terms of brands, if you put on an oil filter and notice a clattering at startup, this means your valvetrain is running dry because of a bad anti-drainback valve in the filter. Cheap filters and brands like Fram often have bad anti-drainback valves. Motorcrafts have a silicone ADB valve.

And *if* your engine ever needs warranty work and it turns out that a filter imploded, your dealer could deny a warranty claim if it was anything other than a Motorcraft filter, so for that reason alone, I'd recommend them. But do some reading, search for websites that show filter internals, and good luck with your van.

George

 

If your motor is damaged by a failed oil filter, no matter who made it, its not handled by OEM warranty. Even if it was a motorcraft filter.

That said, they cannot deny a warranty claim because of non-oem components, unless that component caused the failure.

 

I would call BS instinctively on the Motorcraft filter failure not falling under factory warranty. Even though I can and have changed my own oil since 1970, it is usually my approach with a new vehicle under warranty to take it to the dealer (if the price is right) for oil changes. My selling Ford dealer does changes in a half hour, no appointment basis, for $30, and when my van was under warranty, it simply was not worth my doing it myself. Plus this got me some face time with the service manager.

At 42k miles, my 4.6 developed a light ticking noise. The factory had issues a TSB that the early 4.6 Romeo PI heads (like mine) had bad cooling on the rear exhaust valves, and the Ford fix was replacement heads. At the time, the powertrain warranty was 36k miles, but I had bought an extended 60k warranty. The service manager, who knew me by name, got me a loaner car for a week and $4200 worth of new cylinder heads for my $100 deductible. I don't think my using Motorcraft filters really mattered, nor was the problem caused by oil or filters, but during warranty periods, I do my best to use the dealer for oil changes.

And I still believe that if you brought a vehicle in with the OEM model Motorcraft filter that disintegrated and killed your engine (as would be evidenced by cutting the filter apart), that it would be covered by warranty, whereas if it was a Fram (and I HAVE heard stories of them blowing apart--not often--but they are cheap junk with pretty orange paint) I think you'd be SOL. Fram might provide *some* coverage under their warranty, but good luck on that....

It is my belief that if you have an engine failure under warranty using Motorcraft oil and Motorcraft filters on a documented basis, that you would be covered under warranty. I have not tested this directly, but got a huge warranty repair without any pushback while doing so.

George

 

Filter-wise I am brand-loyal and use only NAPA Gold Series or the recommended MotorCraft version FL-820S. Both have the silicone anti-drain back valve which as George suggests is the best way to go. I've never paid more than $6 each for either of those brands,

I NEVER use the "on special, free" filters offered regardless where or what brand oil I'm buying. They're "free" for a reason and it ain't good!

 

I actually do use free filters when they are the right filters. Now that my van is long out of warranty, I have been known to use Pure One filters (top end Purolator) and Bosch high end filters (either Wix or Champion--I forget). NAPA Gold are high end Wix from what I recall. I will NEVER use Frams or store-brand filters which are most often the freebies. I actually have a couple Pure Ones in my stash that I need to use.

Can't tell the players without a program. Always make sure you get a silicone ADB valve.

George

 

This is absolutely the most important feature, by far!

Agree that a free filter if its of the better or best variety is never a bad thing. Most times that's not the case though, pays to know its details and specs though.

On several occasions my preferred Ford dealer will run an unadvertised special on those I use---always get at least 6 or so for my own stash. $5 each seems a good price.

 

I will keep that in mind about the ADB valve.

I was able to change the filter w/o drianing the oil. Then we went on a family vacation of 700 miles and just got back last night. So all is well!

Thanks!!

 

Good news then---thanks for the update!

The ADB will be present on most any good, better or best filter spec'd for your motor. Always a good idea to go with good stuff since you know its made to fit your vehicle.