Cleaning Injectors By Hand?
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
Cleaning Injectors By Hand?
Okay, maybe not internally, but I realized I should have capped the top end of the injectors when I pulled the head off the '86. Got junk all over the top ends wrestling the heads out of the engine bay. Pulled one out and the thread area and the stem below it that goes through the head are grimy looking too. It is safe/recommenced to soak injectors in a solvent and is it safe/recommend to use compressed air on them? Or is there a better way? Since my engine problem is with the head gasket I plan to clean and reuse the old injectors with new washers and o-rings.
TIA!
TIA!
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
Thanks HBN, it sounds like these injectors aren't hyper-sensitive to manhandling. I'll probably pull at least one apart then to see what makes it tick, and if it looks dirty inside it'd probably be wise to check them all.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 30
From: Maple Valley, WA
Niles, as long as you keep the parts specific to the injector they came from, its fine to take them apart and clean everything. You wont be able to pop them and inspect the pattern, but its better than nothing. These things arent as sensitive as you have heard, I have seen fairly clean injectors spray like ***, and I have seen the nastiest injectors spray like brand new... Just get a good cleaning on them, and they wont work any worse than they do right now.
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
I've had 3 of them apart so far, kind of interesting there's not much to these injectors. The first one had a couple of small shims in it above the spring, the other two didn't. I presume that's how tension is added to the spring to equalize the pressure they pop at.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 13
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 30
From: Maple Valley, WA
Be careful with the shims.... They ALL have shims.... If you only pulled a couple out, you probably have BB codes correct? The shims get stuck to the body really easy, and a small blast of air or brake cleaner will free them up, just dont lose them, or your screwed.
When you put them all togther again, use a light oil to lube the parts, and make SURE there is no specs of anything when you put them back together, keep things as clean as you possibly can... I Torque all my caps to 40ft/lbs (spec is 35, but I have had even fresh lapped surfaces leak just a bit with 35lbs, I have never had one leak at 40lbs.)
When you put them all togther again, use a light oil to lube the parts, and make SURE there is no specs of anything when you put them back together, keep things as clean as you possibly can... I Torque all my caps to 40ft/lbs (spec is 35, but I have had even fresh lapped surfaces leak just a bit with 35lbs, I have never had one leak at 40lbs.)
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
|
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
Ah, okay, I'll check those other two again. I thought the shims might be stuck in there so I tapped the injector body on the workbench and nothing came out. I'll be more thorough this time.
Yes, they are BB codes & thanks for the torque spec, I was wondering how tight they needed to be.
Yes, they are BB codes & thanks for the torque spec, I was wondering how tight they needed to be.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
I pulled all of my injectors apart and I cleaned them all with break parts cleaner, but I didn't oil anything up upon reassembly, nor did I torque the injector sleeves to 40 ft-lbs. I plan on buying all new injectors in the coming weeks, but I just got the injectors cleaned for sake of getting my truck running on its own without Liquid Engine Destroyer. Will I be okay if I let it run with non-lubed injectors/non torqued injector sleeves?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
The first time the injector fires it will get lubed by the diesel passing through it. Thats not ideal to run them dry, even for only one shot, but might be ok.
However, by not torquing the injector back together, you've dropped the pop pressure by an unknown amount. I would at the very least, torque them before dropping them into the engine.
Generally you're supposed to replace the copper crush washer at the tip of the injector each time they're removed as well. And use new o-rings for the caps.
Liquid engine destroyer sounds like a starting problem, have you checked out the glow plug threads at the top of the forum?
However, by not torquing the injector back together, you've dropped the pop pressure by an unknown amount. I would at the very least, torque them before dropping them into the engine.
Generally you're supposed to replace the copper crush washer at the tip of the injector each time they're removed as well. And use new o-rings for the caps.
Liquid engine destroyer sounds like a starting problem, have you checked out the glow plug threads at the top of the forum?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 30
From: Maple Valley, WA
The first time the injector fires it will get lubed by the diesel passing through it. Thats not ideal to run them dry, even for only one shot, but might be ok.
However, by not torquing the injector back together, you've dropped the pop pressure by an unknown amount. I would at the very least, torque them before dropping them into the engine.
Generally you're supposed to replace the copper crush washer at the tip of the injector each time they're removed as well. And use new o-rings for the caps.
Liquid engine destroyer sounds like a starting problem, have you checked out the glow plug threads at the top of the forum?
However, by not torquing the injector back together, you've dropped the pop pressure by an unknown amount. I would at the very least, torque them before dropping them into the engine.
Generally you're supposed to replace the copper crush washer at the tip of the injector each time they're removed as well. And use new o-rings for the caps.
Liquid engine destroyer sounds like a starting problem, have you checked out the glow plug threads at the top of the forum?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 7
From: Over There
If I understand corectly, our injectors don't "fire" dry ever. It's impossible the fuel pressure opens them and they are lubed by the fuel. So nothing moves until there is fuel and thus they are lubed. If you want to nit pick there might be a small pocket that isn't lubed, and small movements before hand if your pushing some air out, but outside that I don't see how it could matter. If worried get a little diesel in via the return.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 589
Likes: 2
From: Nutter Fort,West Virginia
no, they will still fire. just not near as much. (the air compresses and takes up stroke in the pump. and this is why you can still get the truck to run after it has been run dry without cracking the lines)
the pental won't need that much lube, it's only moving about .020" top i would say.
the real wear and tear comes from the pump.
the pental won't need that much lube, it's only moving about .020" top i would say.
the real wear and tear comes from the pump.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
Likes: 30
From: Maple Valley, WA
If I understand corectly, our injectors don't "fire" dry ever. It's impossible the fuel pressure opens them and they are lubed by the fuel. So nothing moves until there is fuel and thus they are lubed. If you want to nit pick there might be a small pocket that isn't lubed, and small movements before hand if your pushing some air out, but outside that I don't see how it could matter. If worried get a little diesel in via the return.