Ok guys I bought an entire pays truck to do the swap only issue is the donor teuck is a rclb and my truck is a eclb....
What parts am I gonna need from the donor?
What parts will I need to source from a junkyard?

I think my biggest concern is the zf5 and e4od being diffrent lengths or flanges at the rear driveshaft

 

you should get everything you need from the donor except driveshafts - like you said - the zf5 trans is shorter than the e40d.

I've been gathering parts for my swap for about 6 months now and sorry to say, but they were the hardest to fine. and you'll be in the same boat since your truck is a 97 - 96/97's used the 4407 t-case, so the driveshafts (at least the rear one) were different than all previous years. ours have the 4-bolt flange that mates to the t-case rather than a splined fit.

you should be able to use shafts from any size engine F250/350 96/97 truck, though so that opens your options up a little more, though. if you've got a decently large junkyard nearby, you may get lucky. I did most of my purchasing through craigslist, but a drive up to Harry's U-Pull It in Hazleton, PA was going to be my last resort. you're probably not too far from there either.

you could also just downgrade to a 1356 t-case and have more options with years you can get driveshafts from. maybe your donor truck has a 1356 in it?

 

The donor ia a 95 f250 so it should have the 1356

Is the 4407 that much stronger than the 1356? I only care because im running 37s

I love harrys I got 2 mint doors, 2 spotless fenders and a 4.10 rear axle for $300

 

I've heard that there's not much difference between the two in terms of durability. I think the 4407 is an aluminum case, while the 1356 is magnesium and the shop manual refers to the 4407 as the 'heavy duty' t-case, but a lot of guys run the 1356 on here and I haven't heard of any complaints/failures.

and yes, harry's is the best. gets crowded and picked over on the hard-to-find things sometimes, but you can't beat their prices. my truck had a bunch of damaged or missing of interior trim pieces (bezel, ash tray, 4wd shifter boot) that would have cost several hundred bucks from ford when I bought it. walked out of harry's with everything needed plus a rear bumper and spare tire for under $50. but I've never seen a good condition tailgate for my truck there! I wouldn't be surprised if the yard takes them off before putting the trucks out.

 

And I would only need the front section of the driveshaft right?
Alot of local yards just have one section or the other

 

yep - front section. I believe the difference in tranny lengths is 5.375" (Bill 'reBilld') can verify that. the carrier bearing (my truck is an ECLB, too) is in the same spot on auto vs manual trucks, so the front half of the rear drive shaft gets longer by that amount. and I believe the carrier slides on past the male portion of the spline joint, which resides on the front half of the shaft, so you just need the section of shaft from the t-case to the splines (if you follow me).

i'm not sure which part of the front drive-shaft shrinks, though. I'd have to compare my two sets - but you'd probably get that as one-piece anyway.

I almost wound up going this route myself as I found that the front shaft section from an F-superduty dumptruck to be the right length, u-joint to u-joint. I started taking it off the truck though, and it started flaking off rust really bad, so I left it.

one more thing to consider, though is balance of the shaft. once you start mixing and matching driveshaft sections, your whole assembly is not balanced anymore, so its best to try to find a whole assembly if possible. I priced out balancing of a 2-piece shaft and it came to ~$200, which was just adding cost to the whole project. so I kept looking and found a setup on craigslist finally.

 

The parts truck will have everything you need. You want to run the 4407. The auto driveshaft needs lengthened by 5-3/8". The front needs 5-3/8" taken out. With my CC, I took both pieces of the rear driveshaft to have modified as they installed new carrier, u joints and balanced it all. Painted a purdy gloss black to boot.

 

So I think I found one ...seems they are listing sections seperatly and the total is $300

 

Either T-Case will work if you ask me.

with 37's I'd run the 10.5 carrier in the rear though.

 

what's the 10.5 carrier? i'm in the process of spec'ing and buying all my small parts right now and was looking for - but unsuccessful in finding - a heavier duty carrier than the stock-style one with the swiss-cheese rubber donut around it.

greaseable u-joints are a no-brainer, but i'd rather go heavy duty where I can now than replace parts sooner rather than later...

 

Just my two cents, but for that money, I think I would just have the shafts you already have shortened/lengthened. At least then you would be sure that the shafts were balanced correctly. If you piece together parts from different trucks you should likely have the shafts balanced when you're done.

 

I agree. for $300 you can have your lengths adjusted and have it properly balanced.

junk yard prices for $75 each for front and rear near me. $300 for just the rear seems high unless its reconditioned (new u-joints) and balanced...