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Old May 15, 2013 | 02:12 PM
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RV water pumps

Ok so my water pump is acting up its still doing its job but it lets water back through the city fill into my fresh water tank and now it sounds like a dieing cow when it shuts off . So looking into a new pump not sure what I have yet but can I use any old RV pump or are there specs I need to follow?
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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Usually it's more $, quieter pump and maybe more flow. Just pick out what you want.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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Ok thanks I guess going to a higher GPM or pressure wont hurt anything?
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 04:43 PM
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rebuild kit or you may just have something interfering with the check valves.

shurflo pump rebuild kit | eBay
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 04:58 PM
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I would get it fixed asap...sooner rather than later. Running back into the fresh water tank and then overflowing can be disaster.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 05:06 PM
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Are you using your rv water pump when hooked up to "city water"? My TT manual advises not to use the pump when connected to external supply since it provides it's own pressure.
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 08:33 PM
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I guess I'm confused, how is it pumping or letting water into the filler on the fresh water tank? You have a hose from the bottom of tank to the pump. Then from the pump into the water supply line for the trailer. Are you talking about it is pumping or letting water out of where you hook up the hose for city water. I've owned RVs for years & lived in one for 15 years. I have replaced pumps because they leak but you have me on this one, or I missed something in my reading.
Craig
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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The outlet of the pump is always hooked to the water system, the pump stops the water flowing into the fresh water tank. If it does let water into the tank then it's time to replace it.

Denny
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 09:25 PM
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'Me see if I can esplain this a bit more clearly:
The pump itself has a pair of one-way valves in it.
One of them lets water into the pump - the other allows the pump to expell it..

Because the pump draws from a tank - the check valves also prevent reverse flow into the tank, got it? (I dealt with a failed pump issue a few months ago for a friend - it turned out the pump was fine, but his city water PRESSURE REGULATOR had failed. (totally different story!

When the check valves fail, water flows backwards when the pump is off - or the pump may not even be able to function.

Pressure regulators hold the PSI down to 40PSI, because it makes all of the water system components last longer, and because several if not all of them are NOT DESIGNED FOR 120 PSI city pressure...

You can tell when they fail - because stuff begins to leak everywhere


~anyway~

When these valves fail, the fresh tank will overfill, and the pump itself will be audibly struggling to do it's job (you can hear it, they sound different)
~For one thing, you should be able to turn on a tap, hear the pump run, shut off the tap, and after regaining system pressure THE PUMP SHOULD SHUT OFF AND STAY OFF!
If it doesn't - you have a leak or a problem somewhere.

Finally: If you are connected to city water; WHY IN ALL CREATION DO YOU THINK YOU NEED TO USE THE FRESH TANK TO BEGIN WITH?

WATER is HEAVY - and except for a few gallons of drinking or wash water, I can't think why you would keep a full tank unless you were in a wilderness area without any facilities. THAT is why they have fresh water tanks., my friend

I can see it if there is a history of broken water mains in your area, but only after the city water fails. In any case, you don't use them at the same time, because there is no need to...
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Greywolf
'Me see if I can esplain this a bit more clearly:
The pump itself has a pair of one-way valves in it.
One of them lets water into the pump - the other allows the pump to expell it..

Because the pump draws from a tank - the check valves also prevent reverse flow into the tank, got it? (I dealt with a failed pump issue a few months ago for a friend - it turned out the pump was fine, but his city water PRESSURE REGULATOR had failed. (totally different story!

When the check valves fail, water flows backwards when the pump is off - or the pump may not even be able to function.

Pressure regulators hold the PSI down to 40PSI, because it makes all of the water system components last longer, and because several if not all of them are NOT DESIGNED FOR 120 PSI city pressure...

You can tell when they fail - because stuff begins to leak everywhere


~anyway~

When these valves fail, the fresh tank will overfill, and the pump itself will be audibly struggling to do it's job (you can hear it, they sound different)
~For one thing, you should be able to turn on a tap, hear the pump run, shut off the tap, and after regaining system pressure THE PUMP SHOULD SHUT OFF AND STAY OFF!
If it doesn't - you have a leak or a problem somewhere.

Finally: If you are connected to city water; WHY IN ALL CREATION DO YOU THINK YOU NEED TO USE THE FRESH TANK TO BEGIN WITH?

WATER is HEAVY - and except for a few gallons of drinking or wash water, I can't think why you would keep a full tank unless you were in a wilderness area without any facilities. THAT is why they have fresh water tanks., my friend

I can see it if there is a history of broken water mains in your area, but only after the city water fails. In any case, you don't use them at the same time, because there is no need to...
Ok sorry I should have explained it better. Greywolf your spot on I usually leave my fresh water tank uncapped when on city hook up this year I noticed water dripping out pretty steady and I could here my pump making a really strange noise like its running backwards not a happy sound. So I filled my tank and unhooked city water the pump works but after it shuts off it makes a dieing cow noise so I think the damage is already done. But no I dont use my pump and city hook up at the same time. I really cant use full hook up right now due to the sound of the pump running backwards till I change out the pump I have heard that the valves are built into them. So was just wondering if the pumps are all compatible and I can pick witch ever my wallet can stand
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 02:50 AM
  #11  
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Yes you can - but the volume of water they can pump, or the reliability of the pump is what is behind the pricing.
(I'm pretty sure they all come from the same place, too)

All RV fresh pumps have the same size fittings and are interchangeable. ~They all run on 12 volts...

Unless you are in an ALFA, a class 'A', or a by God "Rolling Mansion" like a TROPICAL I bet a standard one will do just fine
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 07:21 AM
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Ok thanks no just a Keystone Cougar LOL. I would like a little stronger shower though that would be nice I was just worried that some might be to strong and blow apart my water lines or need one of those tank things. Thanks for all the answers.
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 09:12 AM
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I changed ours over to a variable speed Flo-Jet pump 9 years ago and would never go back to a standard pump again. You get even water pressure all the time and unless the water is turned on all the way the pump is a lot quieter than a standard one.

Denny
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #14  
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Yeah I saw those was thinking about one now I just need to talk wifey into it LOL
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 04:50 PM
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OK...LOL....so now , after all this, we can go right back to POST # 2.
 
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