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Awesome info dude!
That kind of helped lay it out in my mind. That was the biggest thing was figuring what i want to do when and in what order.
I wanted to remove bed to have this old gooseneck ball plate removed.. and clean up frame. Bunch of little stuff, but the biggest thing was figuring out the rear tank and the new fuel lines for one tank without a selector valve.
I just didnt know what was best and what it would require.
1) I will probably remove front tank and Install e-fuel where I want it.
2) Install 38 gallon rear tank with stock pickup lines (sump doesnt sound necessary)
3) Remove selector valve and potentially wire switch to be anti-theft (not sure how i like that switch able to kill the truck while driving..dont want someone to kill fuel to injectors while hauling A$$ down highway).
I do want other goodies under there and eventually planned on doing the front tank removal...just didnt know it would be this soon on the mod list.
Will be updating soon.
On thing you will need to remember is the wiring for the fuel tank sending units goes through that selector valve too.. So if you go to a single tank, either leave the selector valve sitting there or you can modify the wiring to just work with the rear tank (easy way to do this may be to get the sending unit wiring from a single tank truck and fit it to your truck). I will look at that on my single tank F-150 when I do that fuel system.
Get yourself a notebook and start listing everything you want to do to your truck. Don't worry about the order, just write down what you want to change. After your to do list is finished, try to put it in order (several lists) by wants, afford, related to each other, what has to happen first, etc. Then start working them out on paper, in you mind & in your wallet, collect your parts & make it happen. I know it's simple advice that you already know but sometimes you have to hear it from someone else. I know I do. IDK @ what HP you NEED to up the fuel line size you may want to check that out, especially since your already opened up w/ bed off. Make sure you trace the wires to selector valve then back to rear tanks sender. IDK what's involved w/ removing the selector switch wiring, but my thought is to rewire the switch to turn on/off the pump manually but not to run it when vehicle is not on. I'd still put an inertia switch & an oil PSI switch into the fuel pump harness. I don't think gassers use a selector valve, the switch just switches which in-tank fuel pump turns on.
Get yourself a notebook and start listing everything you want to do to your truck. Don't worry about the order, just write down what you want to change. After your to do list is finished, try to put it in order (several lists) by wants, afford, related to each other, what has to happen first, etc. Then start working them out on paper, in you mind & in your wallet, collect your parts & make it happen. I know it's simple advice that you already know but sometimes you have to hear it from someone else. I know I do. IDK @ what HP you NEED to up the fuel line size you may want to check that out, especially since your already opened up w/ bed off. Make sure you trace the wires to selector valve then back to rear tanks sender. IDK what's involved w/ removing the selector switch wiring, but my thought is to rewire the switch to turn on/off the pump manually but not to run it when vehicle is not on. I'd still put an inertia switch & an oil PSI switch into the fuel pump harness. I don't think gassers use a selector valve, the switch just switches which in-tank fuel pump turns on.
Right, no selector valve, but they still use the switch. I need to look at the harnesses, but if a single tank gasser sending unit harness would work on our trucks (we don't have an in tank pump), it would be the cleanest way to rework the wiring for the single sending unit.. Along with using the blank plate where the switch goes in the cab.
I get it, use the single rear tank gasser fuel tank sender wires for the gage and the rear tank gasser pump wires to run the pump. Did not think of it that way.
I get it, use the single rear tank gasser fuel tank sender wires for the gage and the rear tank gasser pump wires to run the pump. Did not think of it that way.
You don't even have to run the fuel pump wires to anything if you don't want. Just eliminate them at the plug at the tank. I'm not sure that our fuse boxes are even set up to accommodate the fuel pump wiring.. you could just hook the end of those fuel pump wires to a relay, then run your oil psi switch and inertia switch.