electric vs mechanical is totally different.

 

yes, different mechanisms of creating the pressure gradient - diaphragm vs. impeller, I'm guessing your referring to? the diaphragm pump (assuming the mechanical pump on our trucks is a diaphragm pump - i'm not really sure, though) would have higher pressure spikes, leading to more cavitation issues if there were to be any, though.

plus, gasoline has a very high vapor pressure, so I could see the cavitation argument there, but #2 diesel - and even #1 kero in the winter has very little vapor pressure, so that'd have to be a ton of vacuum in the pick-up tube to cause cavitation.

aaaaaaanyway - I may just be crazy-enough to try to bed-mounted e-pump if I ever get around to it!

 

Yea that was my original plan but the parking brake cable is there and that would push it farther out off the frame rail I wanted to try to keep it tucked up under the truck

 

Updated thoughts. Bump*

 

I really like the idea of removing the midship for a 38 gallon rear. It's something that's on my list as I would like to make room for an air tank and whatever else I feel like stuffing in there. My only concern is with the spare tire. I don't like the look of it hanging down so low on the 38.

 

Just now seeing this thread.

Your options are either remove the front tank OR mount your filters/pump on the outside of the frame rail.

I don't know what your future plans are for the truck, but take all your future plans into account now. Really think about what your goals are in the future and how you will use the truck before deciding on a pump and whether you keep the front tank or not.

For example, if your goal is just a nice 450hp street truck, keep the front tank and mount the pump and filters outside the frame. A stock SD pump should keep up with that demand and if it won't, a Walbro GSL392 or a Bosch 044 will keep up no problem. The stock selector valve won't hurt you at that level. If you want more fuel capacity, you can put the 38 gallon tank in and still have your stock front tank.

If you want to go a little over 500hp one day, go ahead and delete the front tank and rid yourself of the restrictive selector valve. IMO, if it's still a street truck at this level, I'd sump the rear tank and run dual SD pumps. I know some guys running dual pumps with the stock selector valve at over 500hp, but I simply don't like how restrictive it appears to me so I would get rid of it at much over 500hp.

 

Yeah that was my other thoughts. I wanted to do it eventually, but it seems wise to do it now and create room for an easy e-fuel installation.
I like how Jim Rosewood had the air tank, compressor, with the guage/quicklink adaptor put up in his front filler door.

Well thanks for finding it cuz that was exactly the type of info I was lookin for (other than the questions i have regarding removing fuel selector and electrical involved etc).

I plan on making well over 500hp someday. The goal currently is 500hp.. I figured one day dual pumps would be necessary, but im going in steps.

So you wouldnt even bother getting a larger rear tank? Just keep the 18.2?

Do you have a link for making the rear sump?

Also, just to make sure im understanding it..putting a sump in the rear tank is modifying the stock pickup to let it reach deeper?
Or to install a pump of some sort on the bottom of the tank to get the most fuel possible kinda like the sump pumps in basements?

Sorry lots of shotgun questions.

 

Or you can just make/buy a pump to install on the bottom of your tanks?
Quickly googled and found a PSN link...

ima have to do more reading.

Homemade Sump Pump - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

A sump is just a bowl on the fuel tank that you can draw fuel straight out of rather than using the pickup tube. Basically completely eliminate the pickup tube. Our rear tanks already have a lowered spot in the middle of the tank that you could weld a fitting into and try it like that. I've heard of people doing that with success, but I planned on adding a sump on mine. I have a bolt in sump on the shelf, but I decided to use that on my F-150 and on my PSD I am going to delete the front tank and weld in a large rear facing sump so all the fuel going into the sump under power. Everyone doing the bolt in sump deal is putting their sumps directly under the stock pickup tube.

You could add a larger tank to it if you want extra capacity. That's your choice and won't make much difference as far as the rest of the fuel system goes.

On bolt in sumps, I need to look and see if they will actually fit our tanks. I can grab the one I have in the shop and check it out this weekend. Not many OBS guys are doing sumps, obviously b/c of the dual tank issue, so I'm not sure if the sump is actually going to fit the rear tank. I've done a few of them on SDs and they work great, but never done one on an OBS yet. If nothing else, you can either weld in a sump like I am, weld a fitting into the already lowered portion on the tank, or stick to the pickup tube.

 

That is exactly what was done on the tank I have that came out of the pulling truck I parted out. It's more or less 1/2" black iron pipe welded (or brazed I think) into the bottom of that lowered section of the tank. Even has a couple handy but cheesy shut off valves in there. I can put up some pics if anybody wants them. I have kept the tank because it looks to be next to new. I figure it would be a good spare if nothing else.

Alex, Is there room on the outside of the frame rail between the rail and the bed skin? I think that would be my first choice of location. If you built the bracket right I'm thinking you could just about tuck everything up inside there and it would never be seen. Just bring it over to my place and we will do it all in a weekend! I've got the shop and the tools, you have the truck and the parts.

 

Very good information! Basically a fitting in the bottom of the tank that the fuel hose goes on and it draws from there?
So you would have to leave the standard pickup sender thing in there for a gauge reading tho?

Very good info Travis Thanks!

Haha next weekend im gunna be in Florida! Going to a cousins place on siesta beach! Never been! Should be great.

I would appreciate those pics tho.

 

Oh and yeah there is room between the rail and bedskin, but its out there and right in line with the tires. I dont have mudflaps on anymore...and im worried about stuff flying up and hitting it. I could build a protective box...
I guess it all comes down to me being **** n wanting it all up under the truck.

 

If your that worried, mount the filters and pump up above the plastic fender liner (driver side bedside fender liner), on the outside of the frame. Tons and tons of room up in there. It would basically almost be up in the bedside.

If you decide to do what I just said, don't run a sump, there would be no point. Use a pickup tube as you'll be pulling the fuel up above the tank anyways. The theory behind the sump is to eliminate the pump having to pull the fuel up the pickup tube. It will pretty much gravity feed out of the sump, now how ever high you mount the pump, it's that much harder for the pump to pull fuel.. Remember, pumps like to push, not pull.

 

If I'm reading you right Alex, you want the e-fuel (preferably inside the frame rails), the stock fuel capacity (32-38 gal), air tank & stuff, and your willing to take some time to get it done/do it right.
I've done the 38 gal rear tank w/ spare mounted under the tank w/ no clearance issues, BUT I don't go off roading w/ my truck. My advice:
1) Go to an auto body shop supplier and pick up a painters stand (a double horse) that will hold 300-500# (s/b <$100.00) to put your bed on when you pull it off of the truck. You'll use it over & over after this job is done, trust me.
2) Pull bed & put on the stand.
3) Pull front tank to see how much you'll really gain w/o it.
4) Mock up all your mounts & skid plates out of scrap wood, or pick up a sheet of 1/4" @ home center
5) IF you like the look, make your brackets & skid plates & install your e-fuel where deleted tank was, and your air tank & whatever else (air horns?)
6a) Remove or bypass the selector valve, it's wiring, and the front tank's sender wiring (make sure you trace the rear tank wiring first so you don't cut or remove it)
6b) If you want larger fuel lines now is the time, & mod the draw/return straws
7) Install a 38 gal rear tank, do a vent mod up to the fill neck, mod the fill neck, & extend the spare tire mount.
8) Install the bed
9) Another thought, if you delete the front tank & keep the selector switch, wire it up as a kill switch for the fuel pump like an anti theft device, Rear position is on, front position is off
I hope this helps some, just another point of view.

 

Awesome info dude!
That kind of helped lay it out in my mind. That was the biggest thing was figuring what i want to do when and in what order.

I wanted to remove bed to have this old gooseneck ball plate removed.. and clean up frame. Bunch of little stuff, but the biggest thing was figuring out the rear tank and the new fuel lines for one tank without a selector valve.
I just didnt know what was best and what it would require.
1) I will probably remove front tank and Install e-fuel where I want it.
2) Install 38 gallon rear tank with stock pickup lines (sump doesnt sound necessary)
3) Remove selector valve and potentially wire switch to be anti-theft (not sure how i like that switch able to kill the truck while driving..dont want someone to kill fuel to injectors while hauling A$$ down highway).

I do want other goodies under there and eventually planned on doing the front tank removal...just didnt know it would be this soon on the mod list.

Will be updating soon.