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Old May 13, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #1  
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Another cooling question?

So summer is upon us here in San Diego. I decide im going to head to a friends house in Poway and as im half way there I look at the temp outside. 103 degrees So stinkin hot and no AC is not fun but I deal with it. So I then look at my temp gauge. Its around 190-200. Not to bad I guess. But of course it goes to 200-210 at stops. That's when I begin to worry about being stuck in traffic or something and it wanting to possibly over heat. I have a big flex fan on it right now but am wondering what else I can do (I already have the massive radiator)?

I do NOT have the money to go to a all electric fan set up. But I do have a free 16" electric fan. I can get the model # later. Was thinking I should put it in front of the radiator as a puller so when im in city streets with all the stops it still is pulling a lot of air through. Will this work ok on a temp probe set up?

And will my alternator handle this? I think it draws like 24amps (I also have dual batteries if that makes a difference)

Thanks
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 10:43 PM
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210 in traffic isn't terrible as long as it cools off on a roll. 220+ I'd be a bit worried. With a 14-16 PSI cap and anti-freeze it probably won't boil until 240+.

For the fan, a 16" aftermarket electric unit won't do it. A really high end aftermarket will ($$) or an OE electric fan (Taurus, Continental ect.) or repop. If you want to go electric, the JY is your friend.

The OE mechanical fan and shroud actually works quite well. The shroud is important for low speed cooling. That's what I run.

On electrical requirements... with electric fans the factory installed 100+ amp alternators for a reason. The stock alternator on a dent is max 65A? With a good sized electric fan I think you need 100+ amps and good idle output. G3 upgrade or one of the aftermarket solutions (Powermaster, Tuff Stuff, Summit).
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 10:45 PM
  #3  
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HIO Silver
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Originally Posted by SuperDuty93
So summer is upon us here in San Diego. I decide im going to head to a friends house in Poway and as im half way there I look at the temp outside. 103 degrees So stinkin hot and no AC is not fun but I deal with it. So I then look at my temp gauge. Its around 190-200. Not to bad I guess. But of course it goes to 200-210 at stops. That's when I begin to worry about being stuck in traffic or something and it wanting to possibly over heat. I have a big flex fan on it right now but am wondering what else I can do (I already have the massive radiator)?

I do NOT have the money to go to a all electric fan set up. But I do have a free 16" electric fan. I can get the model # later. Was thinking I should put it in front of the radiator as a puller so when im in city streets with all the stops it still is pulling a lot of air through. Will this work ok on a temp probe set up?

And will my alternator handle this? I think it draws like 24amps (I also have dual batteries if that makes a difference)

Thanks
1. Add a bottle of Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple's Purple Ice. It reduces surface tension and allows better heat transfer (from the block to the coolant and coolant to the cooling fins). $8 buys 10° to 20° of cooling... or so they claim.

2. Add an oil cooler.

3. A fan in front of the radiator would be a pusher.. a fan behind the radiator is a puller... I'd hook the electric pusher to a manual switch and engage it only when needed... like when it's 90°+ ambient.

... if it draws 24 amps, then ya need to calc the overall electrical load with everything on... of course, calc it per battery since ya got a dual set-up. Personally, I'd hook up the electric fan to the aux battery.

... consider venting the engine compartment. Heat rises and gets trapped under the hood. Aero wasn't much of a consideration on these rigs so the better it can evacuate heat under the hood is a better thing. A cowl induction hood or hood louvers... here's an example for your perusal: TJ Hood Vents - 1

Good luck.
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Thanks blue and white and HIO! I do have a oil cooler on it now as of a year ago. And a friend just said get that water wetter. Any of you try it? And when I get a rebuild or do a 428 swap ill probably do the whole electric fan set up. So for now ill try the water wetter then see if that does it.

Also, how does a radiator overflow bottle work? Is there a special cap id need so it can suck it out or release fluid?
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Back in the day, the overflow hose just dumped to the ground. A recovery bottle is the earth-friendly solution. It's there to allow excess coolant escape and draw it back if needed. Many now fill the radiator to the brim when actually it should be fill just to cover the cooling tubes so it doesn't overflow in the first place.

Try a bottle.. it's a cheap potential solution.

2X on 210° being okay. Fan shroud... sure, that's good too. For maximum efficiency, the mechanical fan should only protrude up to halfway into the shroud with about an inch clearance along the circumference.

Not all fans are created equal and a fan's diameter is not the determining factor of its effectiveness. It's the blades' aerodynamic design that determines most of its efficiency. One fan might "chop" the air and move very little air volume whereas another can with a better blade design will move more air at the same RPM. Think about the same principle with boat propellers. Dig??

Btw, the Lincoln Mark VIII fan is 18 inches in diameter.. have you seen the Mark VIII fan's blades? They're like shovels.
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Back in the day, the overflow hose just dumped to the ground. A recovery bottle is the earth-friendly solution. It's there to allow excess coolant escape and draw it back if needed. Many now fill the radiator to the brim when actually it should be fill just to cover the cooling tubes so it doesn't overflow in the first place.

Try a bottle.. it's a cheap potential solution.

2X on 210° being okay. Fan shroud... sure, that's good too. For maximum efficiency, the mechanical fan should only protrude up to halfway into the shroud with about an inch clearance along the circumference.

Not all fans are created equal and a fan's diameter is not the determining factor of its effectiveness. It's the blades' aerodynamic design that determines most of its efficiency. One fan might "chop" the air and move very little air volume whereas another can with a better blade design will move more air at the same RPM. Think about the same principle with boat propellers. Dig??

Btw, the Lincoln Mark VIII fan is 18 inches in diameter.. have you seen the Mark VIII fan's blades? They're like shovels.
You are the man as usual! Yea I actually have a flex fan on it because that's what the PO had to I went from the cheap 15" to a NIB 18" and it splits the shroud line kinda. And I was going to make a overflow bottle out of some black pipe I have that's like 4" in diameter. Make a little jug. Can those caps with the red handle on top suck in or only let fluid out? And yes I get what you mean. Got a new prop on my outboard a few months ago haha. And I like those Mark VIII fans!
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 11:47 PM
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Stant caps? It'll go both ways since liquid will expand and contract with temperature. A cooling liquid will contract and create a vacuum. Assuming the cap its doing its job, there is only one source of vacuum and that's from the overflow bottle so it'll suck coolant back in if it is needed.
 
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Old May 13, 2013 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Stant caps? It'll go both ways since liquid will expand and contract with temperature. A cooling liquid will contract and create a vacuum. Assuming the cap its doing its job, there is only one source of vacuum and that's from the overflow bottle so it'll suck coolant back in if it is needed.
Ill go look I don't think it says stant on it but it looks like the google image of a stant cap with the red handle to release the pressure.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 07:17 AM
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If you're going to make your own overflow tank make sure it is 1) large enough 2) properly vented 3) the connection to the radiator is at the bottom of the overflow tank and 4) your radiator cap will allow the fluid to flow back into the radiator as the system cools down.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Canus
If you're going to make your own overflow tank make sure it is 1) large enough 2) properly vented 3) the connection to the radiator is at the bottom of the overflow tank and 4) your radiator cap will allow the fluid to flow back into the radiator as the system cools down.
FYI...Aftermarket recovery tanks hold about a quart of liquid. Jeg's has a nice bottle for about $20. It's even available in blue to exude your Fordness.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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This may not help at idle but you could put some type of thin wood or metal in front of the radiator between the grill and radiator to direct the air towards the radiator. Almost like a reverse shroud to direct the air towards the radiator and extend your shroud on the opposite side. Just make sure it clears the fan blades.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 04:18 PM
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I bought one of these universal overflow kits at Autozone.

 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Those operating temps dont sound bad in 103° weather. Do you have a thermostat installed? I believe a 185-190° t-stat is what you should be running. My 360 equipped with one stays at 190-195° in the hot south and will inch up to 200° but no higher in traffic during the summer.

On a side note; I have a generic thermo fan clutch and am amazed at how much air it moves. There is a 1/4'' gap between the hood and the cowl and with the truck idling it feels like a leaf blower blowing air out of the gap.
 
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