Hard start/No start
Howdy All;
Just recently joined like many do, I have a problem and would like to tap into the knowledge base
Engine is in an early (manufactured July 25 2003), F-250
Problem; Hard start/No start
Clues;
Started this past Winter, Had org. batteries (changed out 2 weeks ago), and even when it was only mildly cold (20's - 30"s) was a hard start unless I had plugged in the block heater, then it would start as you would expect it to.
Now (I'm in Southern New Mexico), with daytime temps. into the upper
80's and nights down to the mid to upper 40's, it just wants to crank and
crank and so on ... Again, unless I plug in
outside air temp. is in the 60's or low 70's. Plug in wait 3 to 4 hours,
extension cord (heavy duty), feels warm. Unplug, turn key on wait till the dinging noise stops (another hint), I can hear the fuel pump whirling, I wait till it stops then engage the starter. Cranks but starts (yea!!!).
Then I have to wait for several (5-10), minutes while it smooths out.
Rough idle, slight raises and lowering of RPMs (very slight). Sounds like an old 50's Detroit ....
Power is weak for the first few miles then it performs as it should.
Both fuel filters have been changed and it still is the same. Need to change engine oil and filter, picking them up Monday (5/13/13).
Ok, that's what I can recall in the condensed version....
Any ideas? Thoughts? Conjectures???
Ask me questions I'll answer best that I can.
Thanks for your considerations.
hank
Thanks for a detailed write-up. That helps! Sounds quite a bit like a FICM issue or injector stiction (FICM issues are easier to permanently fix!). Make sure the batteries (charge them and then individually load test them) and alternator are healthy!
You need a way to monitor FICM (FuelInjectionControlModule) volts.
Also, the condition of your oil can play a big part in injector performance.
Use a 5W40 or 10W30 diesel rated oil. Use OEM oil (And fuel) filters. Change the oil every 5k miles or so.
I use an occasional oil additive (Archoil 9100). Some say it helps. Others have seen a benefit from Rev-X.
Consider getting a Scangauge II (or Dashboss, or TorqApp) for troubleshooting. For the 6.0L, you need to know actual PCM values ob critical parameters to do a proper job of it!
I have changed out the Wicks filters for Motorcraft, the caps are all org.
Last Summer I had some work done to it as I was noticing an oil leak thought it was Rear Main Bering, turned out to be the ICP. So it was replaced but not the plug mechanic said it was in good shape (clean).
Left the truck un plugged last night and NO start this Am.
Plugged it in and now waiting for the heater to 'do it's thing'. I'll edit this when the time passes and let you know if I can get it running.
Appreciate ya'll taking the time to help me solve this puzzle.
hank
Yep, the Wicks will fit under the Ford cap...
Mine now looks like the one on the right.
After being plugged in for 2.5 hours it wanted to start,
just wouldn't. Tried twice then left it alone for 2 more hours.
Almost caught, tried to run
, but didn't quit make it
.Left it un-plugged but will plug it in before I turn in for the night.
hank
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Decided to just pull the FICM and ship it off to SWAMP's for test and replacement / repair . This FICM was made on 06/08/03, and my truck's Birthday is 07/25/03.
If that doesn't fix it I'll use it for an anchor
.Ok, I'll just check some other things.
Thanks for the help.
I'll post when I get some information.
hank
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Check ALL Battery cables especialy the grounds clean where they mount to the Fram and Enginehere
BEST thing you can do is get some gauges to keep a Close eye on the Charging system and FICM
Charging system problems can REALLY TAX the FICM
The STOCK ALT is underpowered and the Dead FICM is usually the result of weak ALTERNATOR
Alot of us swap the Alternator to a High Output Alt
Here is DC Power there one of the Best MADE so popular that sometimes take a few to get it to you BUT WELL Worth the Wait
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/
There are others out there but I am unshure the Quality Alot of the AutoZone and Oreilys alts SUCK so
Good news!!! FICM sent to Swamp's Last Tues. (5/21),
It arrived there Thurs. (5/23 USPS Express), Was fixed
with the 58v upgrade and shipped out That Fri. (5/24).
Arrived here today!!
Installed it and the danged truck fired right up. Zero hesitation.
Even feels like it's got a smidgen more power.
I'd also ordered a ScanGauge II from Amazon on Monday, It
arrived here today as well. Now I gotta figure out how to program
the 'X-Gauge' part so I can keep a close eye on it till I drag it off to
get the Bullet Proof EGR cooler, Heavy duty oil cooler w/ external filter
installed.
Not showing any codes on initial install of SG II
.Thanks for putting up with me...
hank
Good news!!! FICM sent to Swamp's Last Tues. (5/21),
It arrived there Thurs. (5/23 USPS Express), Was fixed
with the 58v upgrade and shipped out That Fri. (5/24).
Arrived here today!!
Installed it and the danged truck fired right up. Zero hesitation.
Even feels like it's got a smidgen more power.
I'd also ordered a ScanGauge II from Amazon on Monday, It
arrived here today as well. Now I gotta figure out how to program
the 'X-Gauge' part so I can keep a close eye on it till I drag it off to
get the Bullet Proof EGR cooler, Heavy duty oil cooler w/ external filter
installed.
Not showing any codes on initial install of SG II
.Thanks for putting up with me...
hank
Glad it is fixed, but I am curious, why did it take 6 days to become convinced to test/suspect the FICM?
First go-'round in this swimmin' hole ... need to test the waters a
bit. Also I was working with a local mechanic. He's outstanding on
Farm and OTR diesels but just not well schooled in pick-up truck
and more computerized ones. His wife does the computer stuff.
I'd run off a bunch of copies of troubleshooting guides and he was
working towards the FICM.
Anyway, thing runs now ..... and like I said saving up for a Bullet-Proof
job.
Thanks for the answers I'll listen a little harder next time.
hank









