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Check all your relays for good connection under the hood. Specifically, the idm relay. I assume u checked all the fuses. Maybe swap them around. Have u checked to see if GPR is working/has voltage? i guess it gets wts light since its building fuel psi.
Then you're not getting fuel into the cylinder. Do you have a way to do an injector buz test? Like AE or the like? Could do a continuiry test using the 42 pin connector.
On my phone now, maybe someone can post a link on the procedure.
I've heard of a scan tool that is software for laptops and an obd2 patch cord. Anyone heard of this. I have 3 7.3l trucks. Maybe the correct scan tool isn't a bad idea.
Just for fun I pulled a plug out of the oil rail on the drivers side and had a friend crank the engine over while I watched the hole. It sort of puked oil, not exactly hundreds of psi like the book says, is that normal?
You won't see hundreds of psi or oil from the hole with a plug removed, but you should see, holy poop that's a lot of oil. Stop cranking. Stop cranking.
If you're just seeing a little oil dribble or spit out, then you need to check your HPOP for any stickers indicating it's a reman. We've seen issues here where a reman HPOP was bad. It would build pressure if the heads were isolated and a gauge was put on them, but the volume wasn't sufficient to run the injectors.
That code is caused by lack of oil psi to injector rail. I think it has to be greater than 500 psi to crank. If hpop reservoir is full, then could be bad sensor or bad hpop or ipr. If the tin nut is tight on ipr and it will not crank with icp unplugged, i would check voltage to ipr . Then i would plumb in manual gauge to check.
Does it have good battery voltage and spin over strong? It must maintain at least 10.5 volts to crank.
If u think it has bad fuel, did u ever drain any in a clear container and let it sit? The one I had settled three different levels with mostly water on the bottom and a little diesel in the middle, and some brown crap on the top