As I work my way through the cab on the F1 patching holes and rust spots I am left wondering if the spray on rust converter you can buy is any good. I've used it on a couple of places but I'm not sure whether it can be depended on or if it really works. The rear cab corner on the passenger side is rusted through on the bottom 1 1/2 or so, so I know I need to use patches and install them but what about the areas higher up on the inside ,from the rust out. I mean its rusty as well but its not rusted through at all. Will the rust converter work or am I wasting time and going to have to repair corners in a few years. The drivers corner seems in good shape but again the insides have rust on them. I can get my hands in the space with some 40 grit to knock down the flakes but theres no way I could get back to bare metal. I'm looking for the miracle rust converter so I don't have to install corners. Any Ideas. Thanks

 

I'm far from am expert but I think the more rust you can mechanically remove the better. I use a combination of a grinder with a flapper disc attached and a sanding disc on a drill. Then once I think I have all the rust of I go over it with ospho. Then I prime it as quickly as I can usually with a ppg rattle can primer(I'm never working Fast enough of on a large enough area to use a spray gun

 

Here's my experience with Extend rust converter. 25 years ago I used it on the rear fenders of my F-2. These fenders were in bad condition but I couldn't find a decent replacement set so I had to use the original set. After I stripped the fenders using a DA with 80 grit paper I replaced the rusted away parts with new metal along the mounting edge and in the bottom corners of the wheel openings. On the top, flat area I had major deep pitted rust and I knew if I blasted them I'd end up with Swiss Cheese so I took a chance and brushed on Extend rust converter. Epoxy primed the fenders and painted them. That was 25 years ago and the fenders haven't shown any sign of rust or bubbles. I try not to drive my truck when it's raining but still end up in the rain, I've even driven it in the snow a few times. I would think a fender would be exposed, inside and out, to the extreme elements than the inside of a cab.

Just my 2¢.

 

i'm a firm believer and user of Master Series coatings. but... for tough to reach stuff, Eastwood makes an internal chassis coating that comes with a spray tube that fans out the spray to coat the innards witha zinc rich paint to stop rust. distilled white vinegar can be used prior to coating - it removes the molecular bond that rust has to the parent metal.

 

The chemical rust converters work very well, as Bob attests. Make sure it is rust converter, not rust encapsulator or paint product tho. Rustoleum and Eastwood sell it in spray can, but it is also available as a wipe on liquid in the painting chemicals area of your local DIY store. It works by reacting with the iron oxide (rust) to form a hard blackish compound that is non reactive (similar to bluing on a gun). You want to first remove any loose rust, a green nylon abrasive pad, a hand wire brush, or a sanding with 80 grit paper will be sufficient. Since the converter will only react with iron oxide, not with clean metal, it is not necessary or even desirable to remove all traces of rust. Vacuum up any rust powder before applying the converter. If you are using the wipe on version (my preference, it goes a long way!) apply it heavy enough to completely wet out the area, but it is not a paint, so you do not need to try to form a film or any build up. Any place it contacts any remaining rust it will turn black, if you put it on clean metal nothing will happen. HINT: the converter will also react with the iron compounds in your skin, so be sure to wear rubber gloves when using it if you don't want permanently black hands, nothing will remove it except wearing it off! Allow the surface to cure 24 hrs (DO NOT sand!) then coat with your favorite primer.

 

Rust converters work well on areas that have lots of surface rust, but don't need replacement. Anything rusted through will of course have to be replaced. The converters are great on areas that would be thinned to excess by grinding the rust away. You can prevent further rusting while keeping as much metal intact.

 

I have and aerosol can: Rust Converter by Rust Check (Canadian). "Converts rust to a hard paintable primer". Well it did turn the rust to black. I scraped and sanded the loose stuff I could get to then sprayed the crap out of it. Seems to have done what it says it will on the can. I think I will hit it with some POR 15 when I get to painting the frame for insurance. In the mean time I will finish welding in the corner patches and go from there. Once again, thanks for the help. It is appreciated.

 

If you are welding in new metal patches, spray the back of them and any metal that will be covered up with Weld Through primer before welding in place. It is also expensive but worth it.
Don't overdo the rust converter, you only need enough to wet the surface, excess will actually interfere with it's protection and it's too expensive to waste.

 

It has performed well for me . Seems to do what is claimed . I remove as much rust as possible and apply epoxy primer the next day .I hope I don't live long enough to find that this does not work .

 

I use the same, so far so good.

 

Subscribing...

 

Well I feel better then. Today I checked and its nice and dry and black. Once I break out the POR15 I will give the inside corners some metal prep then a coat of the POR and all should be good. Thanks all. And in 5 years I will re open this post and we will see if it holds up......

 

Rust converters do just that. They convert rust (iron oxide) to iron sulfide. Leaves a toothy surface excellent for paint adhesion.
There is no magic to rust. It requires moisture to propagate. Remove or seal out the moisture and you end the propagation process.
You must remove loose and flakey rust in order for paint to adhere to the base metal.

 

You do have to ensure that the metal is sound . Rust can come from both directions . That is to say there is no point in repairing the outer surface if the panel is rusting (pinholes) from the backside/inside of the panel .

 

I took a sharp awl and poked around until I felt the good steel and then hit it with the sander and some 80 grit to make sure. When I put the patch in I made sure to go about an 1' higher than the last rust hole. It welded up nice with no blow throughs and it all seems good. Most of the rust was limited to the very bottom where the seam was. I've sure seen bigger projects than mine on here.