Sorry I only just saw the post in my other thread saying Type F is the one to use. I am glad I used what was in the truck rather than what I bought!

So I still would like to know if it's normal for me to need to push the pedal in all the way to start (not positive it will happen next time, but it might) and also what oil to use when I change it.

 

Also Gembone, these are my cab mounts I am assuming? Some rust but do they look okay?

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psdceb32ab.jpg

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psd48b4c64.jpg

Didn't get any more pics today, what do you mean by cab corners and drip rails?

 

The gas pedal would not have anything to do with the starter. Sounds like a loose or dirty connection on one of the battery cables. Check the engine side of the cables and also the engine to firewall ground cable. The C4 took Type F. On the engine oil I personally would put in 10W-40 Valvoline or something close. 300 6 cylinder engines were tank motors practically. Hard to kill 'em!

 

Hey Birdman,

I have an old '69 NP435 I will give you, but you'd have to wait for me to haul it north from the end of Baja. I do like the sounds of that swap to the '95 five speed though.. mmmm has me thinking.. Mine is a 4x4 highboy so probably not worth it.. Let me know, I come North of the border about twice a year.. and welcome..

Baja

 

be sure to poke around with a screwdriver. These trucks tend to rust from the inside out.

 

For real Baja?! That would be awesome, I usually don't stray far from grants pass, so if you're in the area at some point, let me know, that would be amazing!

Craig

 

Ok amigo,
I'm from Eureka, Ca. originally, so it may not be a problem for me to haul it back North, where it came from.... I might be able to get it that far. If not, we can check the ground freight cost from San Diego.. We shall see what happens this Summer..

Baja

 

Awesome, well let me know when you're planning your trip, I am in Grants Pass, OR, about 3 hours away from eureka. I'll look forward to meeting you!

Craig

 

The Novak Conversions Transmission Information Gateway



You don't need it to be synchronized in 1st -or- reverse, that's for delivery
vans etc. Like the old UPS trucks had T19's and 300i6's in 'em. Don't listen
to "68Crabby" about that part. ;)

That is one real nice old pickup you got there, Craig! :)

Take the front bumper to a chrome shop and get it straightened and IMO,
that'll fix it right up. Please don't paint that old pickup! Please? :)

Swapping it to manual would be cool as anything and easy as pie -if- you
had a parts truck right there. So the hard part will be sourcing the parts.
If you get lucky and the parts are easy to find the swap's a cinch. Really. :)

Do it! :)

I'll be worth it in the long run.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Special ordered a '75 F150 with a T18 in it when I was 21 years old
and it still runs great! :) Swapped a ZF speed into a '91 Bronco and it
was easy too. You can do this... -if- ...you got the parts.

pps- Here's my "new standard response" to "no start" threads...
Sorry about the bad attitude but they'd just keep swapping parts. :/
The "gambling method" of electrical troubleshooting, I call that. LOL :)

-----------------------------------------------------

I don't usually look at these "no start" threads because the OP won't use
a meter to find the trouble. At best he'll swap parts even-after I type out
a detailed "how to". :/

-----------------------------------------------------

Here's my way of doing it...

An analog voltmeter is all you need.

Trick is to first try it on a vehicle that's working to see it in action. :)

1) Don't mess with any wires etc, get the analog voltmeter out first-thing. :)
That's so you won't "clear-up the trouble on yourself" and then won't know
what needs fixing. BTDT :) Do yourself a big favor and let the voltmeter do
its job before you go monkeying with it. ;)

2) Read the battery voltage by digging the voltmeter's leads into the
battery's terminals (not the clamps;). Should read ~12 volts.

3) Have a helper try to start the vehicle. I've done this by myself, so don't
tell me you can't too. ;) But a helper's cool, you can teach the helper how
to troubleshoot a starting/charging system using only an analog voltmeter
while you're at it. ;)

4) Watch to see how far-below the original 12v reading the needle goes...
-> Drops to ~11 volts and starter sounds good and engine starts fine? --> 5
-> Less that 10 volts and sounds sluggish or won't even turn over? --> 4a
-> Don't move much, stays at ~12 volts and won't turn over? --> 4b

5) After it starts, does the voltage stay at ~12 volts or rise to ~13 volts?
If it just sits there at the original voltage then you've got charging circuit
trouble, could be the alternator or the voltage regulator or both.

4a) Typically you've got a good connection through the whole starter's
circuit and got a low or weak battery. How old is the battery?

4b) Typically you got an "open circuit" (as opposed to a "short circuit")
and the analog meter will find it for you if you-let-it-lead-you to it.

In big steps or little steps, move the leads closer to the "load" (the starter)
until you get virtually-zero-volts (while the helper is trying to start the
engine). Use little steps as you narrow in on exactly where the open-circuit
is. ;)

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Starter relay terminal designations...
S = -to- "Starter relay coil" -from- the ignition switch
I = -to- "Ignition coil" -from- positive battery inside the starter relay