When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Couple wraps of gorilla duct tape and you're good to go
Decided on the bolt route.
Making progress. I'm thinking of a short hose that will allow the steel brake line to be pivoted on the (now hinging) tongue.
Also need to address the funky jack connection - was meant for a 4'' tube or bigger. Maybe move to the other side so I can lock down the folding part of the drawbar.
I'm ready to bleed the brakes, but can get the bleeder screws loosened. I've had them soaking for a week in penetrating fluid. I'm guessing heat persuasion is a bad idea for the cylinder. Anyone have ideas?
If not, I suppose my next step is to remove the brake cylinder and attack them from the bench vice.
If you can concentrate heat on just the nipple, not too much on the body, should not harm the cylinder seals. Not sure if that is possible with it mounted. Heat the nipple, let it cool. Repeat.
Otherwise, I would probably just buy a pair of loaded wheel cylinders. Should be pretty cheap. Of course, once you are in that deep, you end up completely rebuilding the brake drum assy, right? Thus it goes.
If you can concentrate heat on just the nipple, not too much on the body, should not harm the cylinder seals.
Thus it goes.
Thx Bill, will give a try. If it doesn't work, we'll do some rebuild training. My last drum brake rebuild job was on my wife's 1988 Mitsu Precis (in '92). Luckily, I bet there's a uTube or two out there on old Ford Truck drum brakes.
Making progress! Bleed screw couldn't withstand the pipe wrench with the wheel cyl. in the vice. Heat/quench didn't work for me attached to the axle; just not a good angle for a wrench attack.
I took a file to that bleeder screw to recreate a wrench surface.
I'm getting quite comfortable with these drums and the 3 10K lb. springs.
Some of those brake parts look like they could use some time in a homemade electrolysis tank. Let me know when you get it built so I can bring some parts by
I have the Mity-Vac too. Have not used it for bleeding brakes yet. I was at Harbor Freight last night and noticed they have that brand name kit for $40. And some knock-off for a bit less. The only thing is I wish it had a bigger reservoir.
I wasn't able to get enough vacuum on my Mity-vac so I picked up a cheap HF pump - 20% and put it to work with 100psi as the vacuum generator!
Got bubble-free, clean Dot3 out the bleed screws. Will give 'er a test drive tomorrow to see how those drums and old pads hook up. (with temp. spliced light wiring)
Test driving the long rig today. Happily nothing broke loose! The trailer is empty and I can't say I feel any braking power back there. I may need to adjust the pads; fluid level is OK.
I grow weary of the mis-match paint scheme. Would Wedgwood metallic blue (excursion color) look good over the beige and red stripes? (of course I'd use a Foam paint brush!)