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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 04:44 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Yama4fitty
Couple wraps of gorilla duct tape and you're good to go
Decided on the bolt route.

Making progress. I'm thinking of a short hose that will allow the steel brake line to be pivoted on the (now hinging) tongue.

Also need to address the funky jack connection - was meant for a 4'' tube or bigger. Maybe move to the other side so I can lock down the folding part of the drawbar.

Chain stay tube will need to move too.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 04:51 PM
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Longer 7 wire harness will allow me to redo the tail/marker lights and backup lock out. Was using a 4 wire until now.

Still working on Blue/Gold award lanterns. They won't be Coleman green for much longer.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 11:07 PM
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Remember the photos in the appropriate thread when those awards get finished!

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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 11:54 AM
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Making good progress in-between rain storms.

I'm ready to bleed the brakes, but can get the bleeder screws loosened. I've had them soaking for a week in penetrating fluid. I'm guessing heat persuasion is a bad idea for the cylinder. Anyone have ideas?

If not, I suppose my next step is to remove the brake cylinder and attack them from the bench vice.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 02:51 PM
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If you can concentrate heat on just the nipple, not too much on the body, should not harm the cylinder seals. Not sure if that is possible with it mounted. Heat the nipple, let it cool. Repeat.


Otherwise, I would probably just buy a pair of loaded wheel cylinders. Should be pretty cheap. Of course, once you are in that deep, you end up completely rebuilding the brake drum assy, right? Thus it goes.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 03:06 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by bpounds
If you can concentrate heat on just the nipple, not too much on the body, should not harm the cylinder seals.



Thus it goes.

Thx Bill, will give a try. If it doesn't work, we'll do some rebuild training. My last drum brake rebuild job was on my wife's 1988 Mitsu Precis (in '92). Luckily, I bet there's a uTube or two out there on old Ford Truck drum brakes.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 10:04 PM
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Making progress! Bleed screw couldn't withstand the pipe wrench with the wheel cyl. in the vice. Heat/quench didn't work for me attached to the axle; just not a good angle for a wrench attack.

I took a file to that bleeder screw to recreate a wrench surface.

I'm getting quite comfortable with these drums and the 3 10K lb. springs.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 11:36 PM
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Some of those brake parts look like they could use some time in a homemade electrolysis tank. Let me know when you get it built so I can bring some parts by

The project is looking good Sean
 
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:51 PM
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After deep contemplation...

I got off my butt and bought Right and Left China for 10.88 each.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:18 PM
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Now you can pop those old ones apart and show us what they looked like inside.

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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Now you can pop those old ones apart and show us what they looked like inside.

Pop
No bueno. Not sure how, but I scraped out 1 tsp of sand from the back side of each one. Me thinks this F250 spent some time in the dunes.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 10:16 PM
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I'd venture that the "sand" was actually aluminum oxide.

But that's just me....

That pictured piston hadn't moved in a while!

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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 05:57 PM
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From the March thread:
Originally Posted by bpounds
I have the Mity-Vac too. Have not used it for bleeding brakes yet. I was at Harbor Freight last night and noticed they have that brand name kit for $40. And some knock-off for a bit less. The only thing is I wish it had a bigger reservoir.
I wasn't able to get enough vacuum on my Mity-vac so I picked up a cheap HF pump - 20% and put it to work with 100psi as the vacuum generator!

Got bubble-free, clean Dot3 out the bleed screws. Will give 'er a test drive tomorrow to see how those drums and old pads hook up. (with temp. spliced light wiring)

As always, my pics are sideways....
  • [*]
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 07:41 PM
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Test driving the long rig today. Happily nothing broke loose! The trailer is empty and I can't say I feel any braking power back there. I may need to adjust the pads; fluid level is OK.


I grow weary of the mis-match paint scheme. Would Wedgwood metallic blue (excursion color) look good over the beige and red stripes? (of course I'd use a Foam paint brush!)
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 09:24 PM
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I believe you're on to something with your thinking! Would definitely make a big difference.

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