Oops rim size
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An easy way to weather proof that damaged vent, would be to just add a vent cover. Like a Maxxair. https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-00-93...air+vent+cover
It would allow you to leave the vent open all the time, and still be water tight. Helps prevent mold.
Downsides - it costs more than a replacement lid. And it definitely would no longer fit in your garage. Kinda looks like it doesn't fit now.
It would allow you to leave the vent open all the time, and still be water tight. Helps prevent mold.
Downsides - it costs more than a replacement lid. And it definitely would no longer fit in your garage. Kinda looks like it doesn't fit now.
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#38
Thanks Pop, it's looking rusty around the seal, so I might as well de-rust when I remove the door. It always pops open when driving due to ?venturi? effect.
Anyway, with rain on the way, I needed a MacGyver solution. Partially dried out 'tube of goo' worked.
In other news, received the new hitch and finished up adding the blocks. Ordered a new rubber brake line and steel tubing. I have a flaring tool around here somewhere...
Anyway, with rain on the way, I needed a MacGyver solution. Partially dried out 'tube of goo' worked.
In other news, received the new hitch and finished up adding the blocks. Ordered a new rubber brake line and steel tubing. I have a flaring tool around here somewhere...
#41
Held up good Chris, dry as a bone inside this week.
On another, similar topic, I'm working on the hard brake lines and bought a new flex hose. The hose heads up nicely to the frame cross member and there's a hole that I can attach it to. From there hard line up to the tongue.
My dumb question is how to attach that line to the cross member? What kind of fastener is that in the 2nd pic? How to get on/off? Do I buy another clip to slide into the flange on the same fitting buy on the far side of the hole?
added pics 3/4 for clarity.
Thanks!
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#43
Those gold clips are used like this.
The clip already on your line would be on the opposite side of the panel. Which means whatever the panel you are penetrating needs to be within a certain thickness range. The gold clips should have a little bit of spring to them, to handle different panel thickness.
The clip already on your line would be on the opposite side of the panel. Which means whatever the panel you are penetrating needs to be within a certain thickness range. The gold clips should have a little bit of spring to them, to handle different panel thickness.
#44
If your panel is too thick to make up, you can remove that clip on the hose, and just let it seat on the face of the hex portion, or add whatever washer is necessary to get it all to work. Kind of looks like you're going to have that problem with the panel thickness. Not much groove is showing in your 4th pic.
#45
It won't let me post the image, but there is a pic of the style of hose you have here: http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/65518...ry-brake-lines
The C-clip you have is on the near side, the U-clip you need is on the far side.
The C-clip you have is on the near side, the U-clip you need is on the far side.