Recommend Your Best Performance Upgrade/Mod
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
Torque comes with the HP, but everybody speaks HP because it's understood by more. The strongman thing almost applies: Turbodiesels with big torque numbers are wicked-quick all the way up through OD... we call it permagrin here. I've looked at AE data many times and there is no "curve" to the speed graph where it tapers off - it's just a straight line until foot-lift.
Bergman... 400 or 650? 400 is a cool freaking ride with 65 MPG.
Bergman... 400 or 650? 400 is a cool freaking ride with 65 MPG.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
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New User
Joined: Mar 2013
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Everyone is gonna tell you that before you do any mods, make sure the truck is running as it should stock. Make sure everything is mechanically sound before modding anything. Then the sky is the limit. The first mod most do is a chip/tuner but that should go hand in hand with gauges. With a tuner, I think the most important gauge is a pyrometer (exhaust temp) gauge. When you start putting more fuel to it, your exhaust temps go up. If you run your exhaust temps too high, you run the risk of melting some pistons down. Boost gauges are cool and most people have them but they are more of a nice to have rather than a have to have item. If you have an automatic transmission you'll want a trans temp gauge, especially if you do much towing. Trans temps getting up to 230 or above will make your transmission very unhappy. A good free flowing exhaust is also a necessity, especially with a tuner. Diesel engines love cool dense air so a good cold air intake setup should go hand in hand with these mods. Search 6637 mod for a good cheap intake setup. If your truck only has 44K miles on it, you shouldn't have to worry about fixing a bunch of stuff before its ready for your mods. Oil/oil filter change, fuel filter, and proper coolant should have you ready to roll.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
Just to clarify for you and why everyone keeps falling back on the 300 hp number is because that's about all your going to get out of your truck with stock injectors. Any more than 300ish hp then you need to upgrade and that leads to A LOT more $$$$.
To help put the 300 hp into perspective for you... If you were to put a set of 3:12 gears in your truck with the minor upgrades that have been listed, would you expect to be able to break your tires loose or chirp them going into second gear? This is the setup what I have... Different but same principal. I have 38x15.5" tires on my truck and am running factory gears (3:73) that all translated its a 3:12 final ration. No also add that my tires and rims weigh about 170 pounds each, in a dusting of snow I can break all 4 tires loose.
Hopefully this just helps putting that into perspective for you. I would recommend dual egt gauges (one per side) reguardless what you decide to do.
To help put the 300 hp into perspective for you... If you were to put a set of 3:12 gears in your truck with the minor upgrades that have been listed, would you expect to be able to break your tires loose or chirp them going into second gear? This is the setup what I have... Different but same principal. I have 38x15.5" tires on my truck and am running factory gears (3:73) that all translated its a 3:12 final ration. No also add that my tires and rims weigh about 170 pounds each, in a dusting of snow I can break all 4 tires loose.
Hopefully this just helps putting that into perspective for you. I would recommend dual egt gauges (one per side) reguardless what you decide to do.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
I'm going by memory here as I did a similar fix on my E350 RV. Are you referring to the rubber bushings the ends of the anti-sway bar rest in? ~ bugjr ~
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
Just to clarify for you and why everyone keeps falling back on the 300 hp number is because that's about all your going to get out of your truck with stock injectors. Any more than 300ish hp then you need to upgrade and that leads to A LOT more $$$$.
Makes clear sense now ... thanks for explaining this to me. In my case then, I do not intend to mod or push my truck beyond the 300 HP threshold.
I would recommend dual egt gauges (one per side) regardless what you decide to do.
I'll assume EGT is the same as EGRT (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Temperature Sensor - I just printed off the list of acronyms commonly used
). If it is, I do not have dual exhaust pipes so I assume this/these sensors are located between the engine and exhaust outlet pipes?
Makes clear sense now ... thanks for explaining this to me. In my case then, I do not intend to mod or push my truck beyond the 300 HP threshold.
I would recommend dual egt gauges (one per side) regardless what you decide to do.
I'll assume EGT is the same as EGRT (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Temperature Sensor - I just printed off the list of acronyms commonly used
). If it is, I do not have dual exhaust pipes so I assume this/these sensors are located between the engine and exhaust outlet pipes? My questions are: 1) Any suggestion on which manuals to get and 2) any ideas as to where to get them other than the two previously sources. ~ Bugjr ~
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,037
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From: Florida
This is a good manual to get: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-7-3L-Powerstroke-Diesel-Emissions-Diagnosis-Service-Manual-/261189216400?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item3cd0172890&vxp=mtr
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 373
Likes: 5
From: Evergreen Colorado
There are two arms(end links) with bushings at each end. I replaced both arms as I had some newer ones laying around the shop. Bye,Bye clunk.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
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From: North Georgia
This is a good manual to get: 2001 7 3L Powerstroke Diesel Emissions Diagnosis Service Manual | eBay
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 156
From: Sedalia, CO
Bugjr - Thanks for posting your location. I wheeled Pritchett Canyon in Moab with a bunch of Canadians today. A couple of them have huge Freightliners for tow rigs! I was impressed.
Anyway, IMHO, towing a 10K trailer all over North America is a little beyond "recreational towing". With that in mind, here's what I'd suggest:
1) Check your transmission to see if it falls into the range of those that came with the mechanical diode/one-way clutch. If so, start saving, or consider a proactive replacement. Mark K can tell you why, but those things will fail, with no warning.
2) Get a weight distributing hitch. It's the best money you can spend to improve your towing experience, and may be required to "legally" tow over 5K lbs. (That's the case on my Excursion.)
3) AE rocks, but you can get a lot of its functionality from the Torque app for your phone, and have less than $50 US in the whole setup. If you get a code from a bad sensor, Torque can help you find it. Also, you can use it as a gauge for anything the PCM can see. I have the three common real gauges, but monitor voltage, ICP, pulse width, EBP, tranny temp, and engine oil temp on my phone.
4) Like others have said, check the common sensors that go bad (e.g. ICP) and carry a spare CPS and 10mm wrench.
5) Fix all leaks. Boost, exhaust, oil, whatever. Some rob performance, some are just a nuisance, but all can be fixed.
6) Consider a move to ELC coolant, just to eliminate the coolant being a maintenance item. I wouldn't mess with a coolant filter.
7) Run synthetic oil, just for better cold starts, but I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know. Spend $20 a year and get an oil analysis once in awhile, including now, when the truck is new to you.
I'm forgetting lots of stuff, but a lot has been mentioned already, and you'll have to decide how far into the deep end of the pool you want to wade.
Mark
Anyway, IMHO, towing a 10K trailer all over North America is a little beyond "recreational towing". With that in mind, here's what I'd suggest:
1) Check your transmission to see if it falls into the range of those that came with the mechanical diode/one-way clutch. If so, start saving, or consider a proactive replacement. Mark K can tell you why, but those things will fail, with no warning.
2) Get a weight distributing hitch. It's the best money you can spend to improve your towing experience, and may be required to "legally" tow over 5K lbs. (That's the case on my Excursion.)
3) AE rocks, but you can get a lot of its functionality from the Torque app for your phone, and have less than $50 US in the whole setup. If you get a code from a bad sensor, Torque can help you find it. Also, you can use it as a gauge for anything the PCM can see. I have the three common real gauges, but monitor voltage, ICP, pulse width, EBP, tranny temp, and engine oil temp on my phone.
4) Like others have said, check the common sensors that go bad (e.g. ICP) and carry a spare CPS and 10mm wrench.
5) Fix all leaks. Boost, exhaust, oil, whatever. Some rob performance, some are just a nuisance, but all can be fixed.
6) Consider a move to ELC coolant, just to eliminate the coolant being a maintenance item. I wouldn't mess with a coolant filter.
7) Run synthetic oil, just for better cold starts, but I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know. Spend $20 a year and get an oil analysis once in awhile, including now, when the truck is new to you.
I'm forgetting lots of stuff, but a lot has been mentioned already, and you'll have to decide how far into the deep end of the pool you want to wade.
Mark
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,002
Likes: 2
From: SW ON, Canada
I went through all of your great suggestions (thank you all for posting up) and developed a list, in priority order, of potential modifications. I am taking care of the regular maintenance items i.e. oil change, filters etc. as I go. From the top:
Does it look like I have things right? Anything I've miss or got wrong?
~ Bugjr ~
- Gauges a) EGT/pyrometer - how many are required? b) Transmission Temp c) Fuel Pressure d) Boost - to what PSI should it read as I see everything from 0-20 to 0-60 which I assume is for heavily modded mills?
- Chip/tuner - I like the idea of the AutoE unit as a diagnostic tool and I want to know what's what. Also, I only want to get the best out of the stock motor (up to 300 hp as I understand things) without triggering lots of other mods to accomodate huge amounts of hp/torque as I don't need either (I don't think).
- Open Element Air Intake System - appears the AIS is highly regarded in these circles
- Replace Sensors - ICP, IPR, EBP ... any others? My plan is to get a reading off of the currently installed ones first, then clean/replace as I go when needed.
- Hutch/Harpoon mod with Fuel Rail Crossover (RiffRaff)
- Bypass Oil Filter
- Transmission Cooler - Appears the BTS 6.0 unit comes highly recommended
- ELC Coolant replacing the OEM green fluid
- Future - upgrade to a 4" exhaust as required (not looking for more noise ... just flow). FYI - our bi-annual provincial emissions test for this truck consists of the technician watching the exhaust tailpipe for 5 straight minutes to ensure there is no instance of 5 continuous seconds of smoke during the 5 minute period.
Does it look like I have things right? Anything I've miss or got wrong?
~ Bugjr ~
Last edited by sunuvabug; May 10, 2013 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Missed the fuel rail crossover
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: st.petersburg, fl
I would do the list like this after all maintenance
1- hutch
2- intake AIS ,just bought one switching from 6637
3- exhaust
4- gauges
5- tuner
The sensors and elc are maintenance, the 6.0 cooler if your towing
1- hutch
2- intake AIS ,just bought one switching from 6637
3- exhaust
4- gauges
5- tuner
The sensors and elc are maintenance, the 6.0 cooler if your towing
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: the nutmeg state "CT"
I post this as sort of a question. I'm surprised not to see the dp infinity mentioned at all. It's less then a set of gauges and AE combined and from what I've read on here performs better and more tests then the AE. I'm a little annoyed that right when I save the $ up to purchase the infinity the price got jacked up 30 percent. Are you all giving me a reason not to buy it, or has it just been overlooked?
By the way. Lots of great advice in here. I will be starting a maintenance list for my truck asap.
By the way. Lots of great advice in here. I will be starting a maintenance list for my truck asap.