'03 5.4L with P0303 code
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'03 5.4L with P0303 code
102k on the odo. Started running rough last Friday and I went straight back to the house and parked it. Had to use it yesterday and finally threw a code (P0303). Put plugs and the dreaded Chineese COP's in at about 80k. One of them foreign COP's went bad at about 90k and was replaced with a "name" brand.
Anyone want to guess (or just tell me) what this one will be?
Anyone want to guess (or just tell me) what this one will be?
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Hey Hamfist,
Yeah, the coil is my #1 suspect. If it's bad that will be the 2nd to fail. They've been in for most of 4 years best I can recall. I guess that's OK, but then I took the originals out at about 80k and replaced them because I was doing the plugs. Then I went and threw the old ones away (that were working fine).
For sure a case of fixing what wasn't broke - and we all know how that one turns out.
Will I learn from this experience? Probably not.
Yeah, the coil is my #1 suspect. If it's bad that will be the 2nd to fail. They've been in for most of 4 years best I can recall. I guess that's OK, but then I took the originals out at about 80k and replaced them because I was doing the plugs. Then I went and threw the old ones away (that were working fine).
For sure a case of fixing what wasn't broke - and we all know how that one turns out.Will I learn from this experience? Probably not.
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Leaking valve may be the problem after all
So, here's an update. What looks to me like a control valve for the heater is leaking. It sits right above #3 which is wet with coolant. 
Have I correctly identified this? What is a source for it? I've looked at the "Zone", O'rielly and Rock Auto without success. Hoping to avoid a visit to my friendly dealer parts house.
Thanks in advance!
Have I correctly identified this? What is a source for it? I've looked at the "Zone", O'rielly and Rock Auto without success. Hoping to avoid a visit to my friendly dealer parts house.
Thanks in advance!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: South Florida
The hot water valve is circled in my picture below.
You can pick one up at the dealer (it's just a generic Motorcraft YG-368 Heater Valve...) or buy one online from Rock Auto here:
Motorcraft YG368 from Rock Auto
If you pulled the #3 coil back out and look with a flashlight do you see anti-freeze down in the sparkplug well ? Also I would recommend applying some dielectric grease into the coil sparkplug boots to seal out moisture and help prevent moisture related ignition problems.
-Mike
You can pick one up at the dealer (it's just a generic Motorcraft YG-368 Heater Valve...) or buy one online from Rock Auto here:
Motorcraft YG368 from Rock Auto
If you pulled the #3 coil back out and look with a flashlight do you see anti-freeze down in the sparkplug well ? Also I would recommend applying some dielectric grease into the coil sparkplug boots to seal out moisture and help prevent moisture related ignition problems.
-Mike
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Thanks Ham! I haven't pulled the COP out but can see the general area is wet. Looking for the source led me to the valve. The one you posted is my culprit. When I replaced the plugs and COP's I used anti-seize on the plugs and dielectreic on the boots. Guess not enough. Took another look at the valve and it looks pretty easy to get out. Seems to be held in place only by the two heater hoses it's connected to.
Thanks for the part #! I looked at Rock and couldn't find a part (didn't know the #).
Thanks for the part #! I looked at Rock and couldn't find a part (didn't know the #).
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I picked up the part from the "Zone" and installed. Flushed out the coolant that had collected around #3 & #4 and blew it dry with compressed air. Out for a drive it was much smoother but still missing under a light load around 50mph and from a standing start. Back to the house, removed #3 COP and sure enough there was a bit of moisture down in the plug well. Cleaned that out, cleaned the boot, spring and COP and greased it up. Just took a ride around town and down the freeway and she's back to her old smooth self. The bad news is that it was #3 which is a PITA to access, the good news was that it wasn't #4 with the problem.
Ham, thanks for putting me on the right track with the part #. The Zone, and Reilly didn't think it was the right part but after a little InterWeb searching I convinced myself that it was correct.
About a $20 fix.
Ham, thanks for putting me on the right track with the part #. The Zone, and Reilly didn't think it was the right part but after a little InterWeb searching I convinced myself that it was correct.
About a $20 fix.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: South Florida
Glad you got it fixed. What anti-freeze are you using? I probably should've mentioned this before. You should only be using Motorcraft Premium Gold (WSS-M97B51–A1) or Zerex G-05 coolant. Not that Green or Orange Crap. The correct coolant is light gold in color. Other coolants will prematurely age the seals in the system (water pump, valves, heater core, hoses...).
The Motorcraft coolant is actually not too bad (price-wise...) at the dealer. You can find Zerex G-05 at any NAPA dealer.
-Mike
The Motorcraft coolant is actually not too bad (price-wise...) at the dealer. You can find Zerex G-05 at any NAPA dealer.
-Mike
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Ham,
As you can probably tell I've got the "green crap". I forget which brand it is but seem to recall the label saying it was suitable for all cars. Hmmmm, now you've given me something new to worry about.
Appreciate the heads-up!
As you can probably tell I've got the "green crap". I forget which brand it is but seem to recall the label saying it was suitable for all cars. Hmmmm, now you've given me something new to worry about.
Appreciate the heads-up!
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