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Old May 1, 2013 | 07:49 AM
  #16  
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Both the AC and DC systems are grounded to the frame.

Denny
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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I know. On this unit, They ground together in the breaker box. However, I can pull the chassis and converter grounds and still have dim lights showing the AC grounds are acting as a return for DC somehow. And if I pull both neutral and ground service, Leaving just the hot with the main shut off, I can still get AC in the DC system.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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Your DC system may be grounded somewhere else in the system. Remember your incoming cord is also grounded and tied to the 12volt system so it can charge your battery from the TV.

Denny
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 09:18 PM
  #19  
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Thought about a secondary ground but there is no short or continuity.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #20  
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When you unplug from shore power does everything DC work as it should? You may be getting power back-feeding through your cord. I am very suspicious of the host power based on your comment about the ground-neutral modification.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #21  
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DC works fine either plugged in or not. RFI is still present anytime the converter is on. Getting AC voltage in the DC system when only the Hot and neutral are connected. All of the issues were already posted. Currently, Most of the problems happen whether or not the shore power is connected.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 05:37 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cruiseomatic
DC works fine either plugged in or not. RFI is still present anytime the converter is on. Getting AC voltage in the DC system when only the Hot and neutral are connected. All of the issues were already posted. Currently, Most of the problems happen whether or not the shore power is connected.
Do you have a battery in the system at all times, the battery acts like a filter. Most of the low end converters rely on the battery to filter out any A/C voltage that the converter doesn't filter out. Also do you have a inverter in the system if so take it out and see your problem disappears.

Denny
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #23  
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2 Actually. Both are good. Maybe a PD4560 is a lowend converter? I thought anything was better than the WFCO that it came with from the assembly line. However, I don't even need the converter to power a radio. It only does it when the converter is connected to the system. I.e.: Both hot and negitive are connected: RFI from converter. Pull either side RFI stops with converter still on. Almost indicating the AC voltage in the DC system is the cause of it. I have no idea how this is happening.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 09:43 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Cruiseomatic
2 Actually. Both are good. Maybe a PD4560 is a lowend converter? I thought anything was better than the WFCO that it came with from the assembly line. However, I don't even need the converter to power a radio. It only does it when the converter is connected to the system. I.e.: Both hot and negitive are connected: RFI from converter. Pull either side RFI stops with converter still on. Almost indicating the AC voltage in the DC system is the cause of it. I have no idea how this is happening.
I think you just came up with a answer to your original problem, it's coming form the converter, I'll bet it's has a diode going bad.

Denny
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 10:00 PM
  #25  
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Not entirely. Both old and new converters do it. Also, It only does it when the converter is connected to the system and it actually TX's RFI. It may not necessarily be in the wiring. I took a hand held radio and held it next to the converter with it off and connected to the system. No RFI. Converter on, RFI. disconnect converter from system still on, No RFI. Also checked for AC voltage in DC system without converter, Still present. I tried a 2200 uF capacitor, Nothing. 2 batteries, Nothing.
 
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