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master cylinder problem

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Old May 6, 2013 | 01:11 AM
  #31  
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snorindad
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Laughing Gas
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From: Mesa,AZ
Originally Posted by fmtrvt
Mark tickled me with an email as I have not been on the forums for a few weeks.

This was the upgraded RABS valve that had a faster action and if memory serves did away with a rear-proportioning valve as well. The earlier design was very problematic for generating a long pedal, this one not as much.

1999 was a crossover year for the Ranger ABS system options, getting away from this system. I think you may have better luck looking for a 1998 version as many catalogs may have been written that this design did not exist. Just quickly looking many aftermarket sources show the ’98 valve available, which may include stores like Autozone, O-Riley’s and Advance. These types of stores may carry the Cardone version, part number 12-2029. I’d try to see if any store has one in stock and bring your old one to see if the connector is the exact same. The next variable would be the line nut threads.

12-2029 | eBay

If they are not the same, you have a problem. Your only solution may be going a decade backwards in technology and using a adjustable proportioning valve in place of the RABS unit to reduce the rear brake pressure so high deceleration stops can be made without rear wheel skidding.

Secondarily, there have been a lot of poorly made master cylinders making it into the retail auto parts stores lately. I've seen some people go through more then one new M/C to get one that works.
Thank you for your reply. I will look into it. Also thanks to bismic for sending you an email. I have given reps where I can and would give more if it would let me but I will just have to say thank you all for your help.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #32  
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fmtrvt
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From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Mark,

I wish my busy was work, but I'm in the same boat. My online time has been reduced from hours to minutes. If you come across anything that you think I should get involved with please feel free to email me.

Brian,

Things get really tough when the manufacturers stop keeping inventory on replacement parts. Once a part is no longer used in production all the manufacturers usually only have them built by suppliers (in this case I believe Kelsey-Hayes) until the warranty period is over, exception being emissions requirements for 10 years. It always burned me that safety items were not included into the extended time periods as you are finding out. Actually your longer then 10 at this point.

You did not state the drive configuration or rear brake size, but the RABS allowed Ford to use a more aggressive rear brake capability on the Ranger so it would have a higher weight carrying capacity. The problem is under light load conditions the Ranger has poor rear tire traction, and under high deceleration stops the weight transfer unloads those tires more so and the vehicle becomes more rear skid prone. Really bad under wet road conditions.

If you can't get a replacement RABS valve that works (and keep in mind that if you keep putting in RABS and the pedal is still long I'd be looking into the M/C even though it's new) a proportioning valve become necessary to get high deceleration braking under control. What you would loose with a prop valve is some of the rear brake contribution during all braking events, so front pad wear will increase to the point where if was with decade earlier Rangers.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #33  
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Laughing Gas
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Jack, I do appreciate your (everybodies) replies, as soon as the stores open up I am going to start calling on the part number in the link you sent. I do not know why when you call and say your part is no longer available they don't go to another model and suggest that. In the picture the only difference I see is the mounting bracket which I do not care about. I just want a valve that work. I do not know what size the rear brakes are. I would rather have the rabs than a proportioning valve but that's what I will do if I have to.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #34  
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they do that for 2 reasons. first is there are selling you parts thery mostly know nothing about what they are saleing.
second if they do "think " they know and are wrong and someone dies then you get a free laywer up card... most people I know arent willing to hand those out.
next to add to what jack said about the line and thread size of the stainless, adapters can be made if not bought somewere like a hydrolic store
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 10:03 AM
  #35  
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fmtrvt
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From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Brian,

A bracket change would be enough to keep it out of consideration from a retailer.

If you can't find a store with the part so you can compare the connector, Summit Racing or RockAuto has them and as long as it's not installed you should be able to return it if again the connector is not right. The line fittings can be adapted with Weatherhead fittings from NAPA if necessary.
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 12:57 PM
  #36  
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Laughing Gas
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From: Mesa,AZ
Originally Posted by fmtrvt
Brian,

A bracket change would be enough to keep it out of consideration from a retiailer.

If you can't find a store with the part so you can compare the connector, Summit Racing or RockAuto has them and as long as it's not installed you should be able to return it if again the connector is not right. The line fittings can be adapted with Weatherhead fittings from NAPA if necessary.
I just picked one up from Napa everything looks identical except the bracket so I will installed it tonight and a the problem should be solved and I do appreciate all the input this is why I think fte is the best forum
 
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Old May 6, 2013 | 03:52 PM
  #37  
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fmtrvt
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From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Those brackets are usually attached by a small tab that is swaged over after the bracket is place on the body. If this one is like that and you are skilled with a hammer and punch you can un-swage the tab, pull off the new bracket, install yours and hammer the tab back to it's swage condition.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 11:00 PM
  #38  
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have you tried a mazda dealer most of the b series truck parts are the same.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 03:33 AM
  #39  
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yes I have checked with a Mazda dealer, I installed the new rabs valve, did not solve the problem I bypasses the valve with some fitting and piece of pipe still same problem, so installed another new master cylinder, better but still not right yet, have bleed the brakes a couple of times removes a little air not much each time. Thinking about purchasing a new master cylinder from ford that has a new proportioning valve on it. It is the only way to get a new one. Wheel cylinders are good, calipers are good, no leaks at any fittings, new rabs valve, new master cylinder, the only thing left is the proportioning valve. The truck stop good but it is not right so I am at a loss as what to do but replace the master with a new proportioning valve.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 10:44 PM
  #40  
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Ref: snorindad thread 04-26-2013. That picture is exactly what I have in my '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. Not shown however is the proportioning valve that is screwed into the rear of the Master Cylinder and from that valve it goes to the RABS vlave. The proportioning valve only allows about 70% of the total Master Cylinder pressure to go to the rear wheels. Controlled by the RABS modulator, there is/are electronically controlled valves in the RABS that directs brake pressure between the Master Cylinder and the Accumulator in response to the relationship between the "foot on the brake" and the "brake pressure". Check out the diagram shown in the Free photo, video, forum, and club hosting for enthusiasts | SuperMotors.net website.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2014 | 01:40 AM
  #41  
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You didn't change the calipers by chance did you? If so, they may be installed on the opposite sides with bleeder screws on the bottom instead of up top. L and R calipers are identical and will install either side except for the bleeder screw locations.

Just a thought...
 
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Old Jun 21, 2014 | 10:11 AM
  #42  
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Haven't touched the calipers.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2014 | 01:18 PM
  #43  
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I did not change the calipers. The only way to get one of the proportioning valves that is screwed into the master cylinder is to buy the master cylinder from ford. They do not sell it separately. I tried buying a used one from a wrecking yard but did not work. So I bought the MC from ford and problem solved. It was that valve which is kind of what I thought was the problem. I do appreciate all the replies.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2014 | 04:25 PM
  #44  
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I beg to differ from you. The proportioning valve, although screwed into the Master Cylinder, is not part of it. It is even not in the system diagram. My '99 Ford Ranger OEM Repair Manual does not even mention it although it was shown in some of the drawings. I was able to purchase a new proportioning valve from Gaudin Ford (Las Vegas) on-line sales. The Part No. is: F8UZ2C161AA costing about $51.00.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 12:04 PM
  #45  
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I called toulsey ford also tried berge and San tan ford here in az all three said It only came with the master cylinder. I am glad you did not have to go that route. But apparently all ford dealers are not the same
 
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