Timing Meter Question
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Western SD
Timing Meter Question
I recently changed my IP. When I timed it, I had a hard time setting the timing.
How far off would the timing be if I have the trigger point in the low (30%) position rather than the high (70%) position? Would it be a signifiant difference?
How far off would the timing be if I have the trigger point in the low (30%) position rather than the high (70%) position? Would it be a signifiant difference?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Western SD
When I timed the pump, I could not get it to go below 7 degrees advanced.
The instructions say:"
2. Determine whether the “HIGH” or “LOW” trigger point will be used. If this setting is not specified by the engine manufacturer, use the following as a guide. To correlate dynamic timing data with so called “static” timing specifications, the trigger point switch should be place in the LOW position and the transducer placed on the number
one fuel line as close to the injection pump as possible. To correlate dynamic timing with that obtained from instrumented nozzles, place the trigger point switch in the HIGH position and place the transducer as close to the number one injection nozzle as possible. The HIGH position will also most closely follow timing curves obtained with the use of luminosity probes. In most applications, unless otherwise specified by the engine manufacturer, the LOW trigger point is used to correlate timing data with previously published specificatons on “static” timing. "
The low point is 30% on the fuel line pressure curve and high is 70% of the fuel line pressure curve. I could not find any engine spec that said where to set the trigger point, but I had another mechanic that said thier meter has them set it at 70% so i know tht was my mistake.
Since my truck is in a garage 300 miles away, i was wondering if anyone knew if t=such a setting would make the timing that far off because I know that the pump is at the fully retarded position, so it can't be 7 degrees advanced.
The instructions say:"
2. Determine whether the “HIGH” or “LOW” trigger point will be used. If this setting is not specified by the engine manufacturer, use the following as a guide. To correlate dynamic timing data with so called “static” timing specifications, the trigger point switch should be place in the LOW position and the transducer placed on the number
one fuel line as close to the injection pump as possible. To correlate dynamic timing with that obtained from instrumented nozzles, place the trigger point switch in the HIGH position and place the transducer as close to the number one injection nozzle as possible. The HIGH position will also most closely follow timing curves obtained with the use of luminosity probes. In most applications, unless otherwise specified by the engine manufacturer, the LOW trigger point is used to correlate timing data with previously published specificatons on “static” timing. "
The low point is 30% on the fuel line pressure curve and high is 70% of the fuel line pressure curve. I could not find any engine spec that said where to set the trigger point, but I had another mechanic that said thier meter has them set it at 70% so i know tht was my mistake.
Since my truck is in a garage 300 miles away, i was wondering if anyone knew if t=such a setting would make the timing that far off because I know that the pump is at the fully retarded position, so it can't be 7 degrees advanced.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
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you obviously aren't using the ferret meter that most of us are, but if you can tell us what meter you have, someone may know something about it.
if you removed the gear cover while replacing the IP, you may have gotten the gear misaligned by one tooth, causing your timing readings to be accurate while timing is wrong.
if you removed the gear cover while replacing the IP, you may have gotten the gear misaligned by one tooth, causing your timing readings to be accurate while timing is wrong.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 170
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From: Western SD
you obviously aren't using the ferret meter that most of us are, but if you can tell us what meter you have, someone may know something about it.
if you removed the gear cover while replacing the IP, you may have gotten the gear misaligned by one tooth, causing your timing readings to be accurate while timing is wrong.
if you removed the gear cover while replacing the IP, you may have gotten the gear misaligned by one tooth, causing your timing readings to be accurate while timing is wrong.
I didn't remove the gear cover.
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Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
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From: Denver, CO
Never heard of your timing meter, but one thing I have learned, is that sometimes the cranked tight injector lines make the pump hard to turn. Lightly loosen the nuts that you can reach at the pump end and see if she will turn farther. Post pics and more info on you're meter for us and we can try better to help.
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