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when you put a turbo on the engine,you increase fuel in the ip so you can burn more fuel and get the air/fuel mix back.
this alters engine timing.i had to twist the ip in the direction of retard in order to maintain the same timing i had before.
personal experience using the correct tools,tells me that you may have heard wrong.
id suggest buying the tools so you can set it yourself and avoid any guessing.
What do I get to tell how I should set the timing? And your saying most likely it will be retarded? I need to reseal the oil fill this weekend so I figure id see about doing that while I had it off. And exactly do I go about timing the ip? This is my first diesel so I'm on a leaning curve but id like go figure out how I can do it for myself.
In this thread are the required tools or properly timing your engine (in the first picture) Any timing light will do, but you really want one with an advance feature and a tachometer function, preferably that can both be read at the same time like the one pictured. Lower in the post are links to where they can be purchased if they are still valid. My total set up was under 300 bucks.
So to get eveything straight, increasing fuel flow totally changes the injection pump timing. And what I'm doing is advancing or retarding from stock timing but I will actually be correcting the timing
What we are saying, is that without the proper tools, you are basically guessing where your timing is at. Timing should be checked every 30k miles. It is highly unlikely that your timing is still at the "stock" setting, and if it is it is long overdue for adjustment. When I got my meter, I checked both my trucks, and one was retarded, one was advanced. It is hard to get them right by ear.
Ok that's what I wanted to.make sure is that I'm correcting the timing not physically advancing or retarding it. Just wanba get my facts straight before I do anything
I'm correcting the timing not physically advancing or retarding it
Sparky,
you are correcting the timing BY physically advancing or retarding it, but the only way to do it is to know where it is now. Correct timing is somewhere round 8.5* BTDC with the ferret method. You need to know where your timing is set now, so you know whether to advance or retard it to get to 8.5*. From there you can fine tune it to your driving style and needs, a degree or so at a time. That is why the only accurate way to do it is with a meter.
Ok now I got you like I said I want to have my facts straightened out before I proceed any further anc yeah I'm going to find a meter I'm going to see about getting one thanks
Yes it does mean that, and out of curiosity my truck seemed to loos low end torque, not that I do it much, but it can't break em loos anymore though once you get the rlms up its def got more power than before the bigger turbo and turning up the fuel to compensate for the added air, what does that say about my timing, is it advanced or retarded, I'm going to get the meter I'm just curiouse since I've been wandering fir a while.
It is hard to say. The "by ear" method is usually this; Too quiet is too retarded, bottom end knock is too advanced. What you want is a good injector rattle, or top end knocking with no bottom end noise. You can play with adjusting it by turning your pump one way or the other. Top of the pump towards the passenger side fender is advancing it, towards the driver side fender is retarding it.
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