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My training as a mechanic has been with aircraft, but now I'm going to be working in an automotive shop. I'm going to need an impact wrench, but nobody uses those on airplanes and I don't know much about them. All I really want to do with it is zip lug nuts off, and snug them back on then tighten with a torque wrench. I'll be working on up to 1-ton trucks. How much torque do I need in the impact? Are the Kobalt impacts from Lowes any good? (I know everyone says Ingersoll Rand is so great, but I notice they're made in China just like all the others and I'm not convinced they're worth the higher price.)
i bought both of my IR 1/2 impacts from craigs list for under $50 each. and they are the good old made in usa kind.
i also just picked up a snap on 18 volt cordless 1/2 drive impacts from craigs list for $150
and one at a swap meet for $100
for cars i torque lug nuts to 100 ftlbs.
trucks i just make tight as the gun will go.
Buy an IR 231 classic . Best for tire use and general shop use . Extended anvil is a good choice for tire work . Tough as nails , easy to rebuild , inexpensive for what they are . Stay away from the composit bling , they are more powerful , but not as forgiving in rough use . Just my exp. I have 6 IR impacts 3/8 to 1" . (A few others brands also ). The IR are the most reliable .
I own an older Snap On (late 80's model) along with Milwaukee V28 too--both 1/2" drive with the hog ring, not the pin. Both do what I need, are used very rarely though but still top quality stuff.
Ingersoll-Rand still has a few USA made guns but even a well maintained or gently used older model is still pretty awesome. I'd haunt eBay, Craig's List or even our own for sale threads here---put a WTB ad up yourself?
I'd also familiarize myself with the I/R brand, contact them for what's USA made still. They're pricey by comparison but the quality is there, no doubt.
Kobalt and the other cheaper brands are good for a time but once they're done its all over---toss 'em in the recycling bin. A good tool for the beginner, maybe something to have while looking for the better one?
Composite wise you could always go for the NASCAR model---at $4800 its a real deal!
I've seen a classified for a John Deere impact, but it's 700 ft-lbs which seems like total overkill. Would I risk breaking stuff using that on cars and pickups? I want to zip the nuts on just snug, and then use a torque wrench.
Don't know about a deere branded wrench . But the torque listed is usually max break away torque in reverse . Most are rated for no more than a 3'4 bolt , unless otherwise listed . That said , the farward torque " working torque " is almost always much less . A 700 ftlb wrench may only apply 250- 300 ftlb torque in farward gear on the highest setting , at the highest cfm , pressure rating .
as long as it has a torque screw you can adjust the gun. i have all my guns set at rite around 100 ftlbs torque. this way i do not need to use a torque wrench when doing tires. i just zip them on and am good.
it only takes 10-15 minutes to set the gun.
i pick a setting, and zip a nut on. then check it with the torque wrench. back and forth until i find the 100 ftlbs sweet spot. them mark the setting so i know where it is. on t
on the old chicago pneumatic and ingersoll rand guns it is at setting #3
I have one of the cheap Husky ones. It gets the job done and seems to work fine. I oil it every once in a while to keep it lubed.
I've also used Matco and Snap-On impacts. On some things you can tell the difference between the high dollar ones and mine, but for the most part it doesn't matter. For lugs, I've never had an issue with my cheap one. It'll put them on really tight, but I usually just zip them up then torque to spec with a torque wrench. Some people might think it's a waste of time to use the torque wrench, but if I didn't and someone had an issue then it would come back to me.
Also, you say you'll mostly be using it for lugs. If I were you I wouldn't buy the "torque sticks" that some people use. They supposedly torque to a specific spec when you use them with an impact (they twist a little which allows them to not drive the nut/bolt tighter after a certain point). The issue with this is that there are too many variables for it them work accurately. Different brand impacts and varying PSI shop air systems don't allow them to be as accurate as they're supposed to be.
I own an IR2135timax the new cp 1/2 inch and the new snap-on 1/2 inch I use my IR constantly but when something is really difficult I use my new snap-on. I do fleet mechanic for a construction company and now basically only work on one ton up to 550s .i hate the cp it is unbalanced and nowhere near as torqey
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