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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Battery will not charge.

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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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Battery will not charge.

Hey folks I have a very unique problem. My battery is not charging, I have changed the Voltage Regulator, I have changed the Alternator, I have changed the battery cables, I have replaced the fusible link, between the alternator and the battery. I am still not getting a charge to the Battery. I checked the cable to the starter motor...all is good. I put a new plug onto the VR. I tested the continuity of the wires....all test good. I am now at a loss...why am I not getting a charge to the battery? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:53 PM
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Oh and it is a new battery as well.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 03:49 PM
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did you check to make sure you are getting ignition power to regulator?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Gembone
did you check to make sure you are getting ignition power to regulator?
Yeah that.
Does your truck have an "idiot light" or an "amp" guage?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 04:24 PM
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Amp Gauge no idiot lights.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 04:25 PM
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The truck starts just fine....it runs...but it is drawing off of the Battery not the Alt.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Can you charge the battery, drive it to you favorite parts house and let them hook up & diagnose?



John
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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You said you checked the continuity of all wires so we can rule that out.
One thing to consider though, is just because the voltage regulator is new doesn't mean that it's good. Assuming that the VR is good, is it grounded?
If you have a volt meter/multi-tester, check the voltage of the battery with the engine not running, then start the engine and check the battery votage at idle. Make sure that all lights and accesories are "off" for this. Voltage should increase slightly to around 14 volts with the engine running.
If there's no increase, unplug the VR connector and connect a jumper wire between terminals "A" and "F" of the connector. Start engine and check the battery voltage again. If the battery voltage is now 14 volts or more suspect the regulator.
I hope this helps.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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Thank you I will do that when I get back from my Class....thanks guys.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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I hooked a jumper wire from the A to the F on the connector, I hooked the battery back up and the Wire fried....smoked like a sumbitch....melted the coating right off of it....So I could not test the battery like that.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 09:30 PM
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Ok I went to pick a part, and got a brand new wire harness...for the entire Alternator system....just to be on the safe side, I got a new VR....now I rehooked the whole thing up. I tested the voltage coming from the alternator...it is reading at about 13 volts. It is a 65 amp Alternator. It is still not charging the battery. The battery shows 12 volts and it is not charging. I took the Neg. bat cable off and the truck dies.....I am at a loss.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 09:40 PM
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Wow!
It seems to me that I vaguely remember something about 65 amp alternators using a different VR than all of the other alternators. Maybe someone else can chime in here.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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is the big charge wire hooked to the starter solenoid on the same post as the battery +?

also do you have an amp gauge or volt gauge?
I had an amp gauge that was causing a short in my regulator and made it so the regulator didn't send charge to the solenoid.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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Ammeter...the wires are hooked up right. After all that happened I got another wire harness. I folliwed the wireing diagram for my truck.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 11:54 PM
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it may seem silly but start your truck up and barely tap on the key back towards off but still have the truck running. the most common cause for wherring out the switch is a 9 pound key chain
 
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