Battery will not charge.

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Apr 28, 2013 | 12:00 AM

#16

Eric Quinn

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I will try that key thing

Apr 28, 2013 | 08:48 PM

#17

Eric Quinn

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Ok I have checked and rechecked everything....I do not understand. The VR is number 6 that I have tried.....but it still acts like it is the VR. I have pulled this other wire harness off and double checked that that wire harness is good. It is. I do not know what to do anymore.

Apr 28, 2013 | 09:18 PM

#18

FECruzer69

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Quinn

If you touch the (+) positive lead of your multi-tester to the Battery terminal of the alternator and ground the (-) negative test lead, does it read a higher voltage when the engine is running?

Apr 28, 2013 | 09:25 PM

#19

Eric Quinn

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I can not get to the battery terminal on the Alt while it is attached. The wire harness will not let me get to it. I will see if I can get to it via the wire.

Apr 28, 2013 | 09:33 PM

#20

Eric Quinn

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When the engine is off and I test just the positive to the neg on the battery terminals...I get a 12.92 volts...when I start the truck, and I touch the fusible link that connects to the starter solenoid, I get a reading of 12.73. I have two new alt I have been using on this truck. Both test good at both Autozone (where I bought them) and at Napa....they have tested good.

Apr 28, 2013 | 09:35 PM

#21

Eric Quinn

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There are two grounds from the alt. one goes to the VR and bolts under the VR...the other runs from the Alt. to the main bolt on the bottom of the Alt. attaching to the Alt. bracket.

Apr 28, 2013 | 11:48 PM

#22

orich

Lead Driver

Joined: Aug 2003

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From: **** hole San Jose ca.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FECruzer69

Wow!
It seems to me that I vaguely remember something about 65 amp alternators using a different VR than all of the other alternators. Maybe someone else can chime in here.

An alternator system is not like the old classic generators where as once started you didn't need a battery at all to drive all day long for the engine to run. But An alternator needs voltage from a battery to keep it cycling to built voltage if not engine dies . Ez to burn out the alternator if it's weak. It should be putting out 13.2-3.8 for about a 37-65 amp alternator. Better have get to a replacement or have it checked out like O/P says to do. And is your meter accurate.
orich

Apr 29, 2013 | 12:01 AM

#23

Eric Quinn

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I am using a hand held voltage meter...the meter in my truck is an Ammeter. Yes the hand held is accurate.

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Apr 29, 2013 | 06:42 AM

#24

Alex from GA

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Oct 2005

Posts: 1,369

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From: Gainesville, GA

This is a work around but it works. I installed a one wire GM alternator with regulator in the alternator, and did away with the stock regulator. I've been driving the truck for the last 30+ years like this. The stock gauge never goes up much above the middle in my truck but it charges great.