LED Light Conversion
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
LED Light Conversion
Anyone here on the forum ever do the LED light bulb conversion for the exterior lights on their vehicle?
I'm wondering because it's something I've added to my to-do list and am looking for some hints/tips if anyone has them.
The things I'd be purchasing are as follows:
1X - LED Turn Signal Timing Corrector (TSTC)
2X - Red Side Marker Bulbs
2X - Amber Side marker bulbs
2X - Red tail-light bulbs (however I may go with white because of the backup lights)
The LED TSTC is the correct the blink rate of the turning signal lamps when they come on. With LED's in regular-bulb sockets, the lamps should theoretically blink faster than before due to a massive drop in the resistance of the connection... thus requiring a resistor (TSTC) to restore the blink rate.
If you've seen motorcycles with really fast-blinking turn signals, it's because they've done an LED light conversion somewhere on the bike and have thusly dropped the resistance of the bike's turn-signal wiring... It also means that they're too lazy to install an LED TSTC...
I've done this exact same conversion on my motorcycle (LED lights conversion, with TSTC), and I like the look/brightness of LEDs much better than standard bulbs.
If anyone has done this conversion already, or knows of the wiring/location/wire-colours for the OEM flasher unit for the turn signal timing, please chime in.
I'm wondering because it's something I've added to my to-do list and am looking for some hints/tips if anyone has them.
The things I'd be purchasing are as follows:
1X - LED Turn Signal Timing Corrector (TSTC)
2X - Red Side Marker Bulbs
2X - Amber Side marker bulbs
2X - Red tail-light bulbs (however I may go with white because of the backup lights)
The LED TSTC is the correct the blink rate of the turning signal lamps when they come on. With LED's in regular-bulb sockets, the lamps should theoretically blink faster than before due to a massive drop in the resistance of the connection... thus requiring a resistor (TSTC) to restore the blink rate.
If you've seen motorcycles with really fast-blinking turn signals, it's because they've done an LED light conversion somewhere on the bike and have thusly dropped the resistance of the bike's turn-signal wiring... It also means that they're too lazy to install an LED TSTC...
I've done this exact same conversion on my motorcycle (LED lights conversion, with TSTC), and I like the look/brightness of LEDs much better than standard bulbs.
If anyone has done this conversion already, or knows of the wiring/location/wire-colours for the OEM flasher unit for the turn signal timing, please chime in.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The LED TSTC is the correct the blink rate of the turning signal lamps when they come on. With LED's in regular-bulb sockets, the lamps should theoretically blink faster than before due to a massive drop in the resistance of the connection... thus requiring a resistor (TSTC) to restore the blink rate.
You can solve this problem with an electronic flasher, for which the blink rate is independent of load. This is what brian1080 is talking about. There's no such thing as any kind of turn signal timing resistor on these trucks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,238
Likes: 21
From: Northern Illinois
I just bought some of these: 50pcs T10 5050 SMD 5 LED Wedge Tail Car White Light Bulb 194 168 W5W 12V Hot New | eBay
I converted the side markers as well and also did 15 gauges in the dash of my Peterbilt and what a difference in the amount of light they give off. Can't beat the price for 50.
I converted the side markers as well and also did 15 gauges in the dash of my Peterbilt and what a difference in the amount of light they give off. Can't beat the price for 50.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I just bought some of these: 50pcs T10 5050 SMD 5 LED Wedge Tail Car White Light Bulb 194 168 W5W 12V Hot New | eBay
I converted the side markers as well and also did 15 gauges in the dash of my Peterbilt and what a difference in the amount of light they give off. Can't beat the price for 50.
I converted the side markers as well and also did 15 gauges in the dash of my Peterbilt and what a difference in the amount of light they give off. Can't beat the price for 50.
But like you said, 50 for $50, hard to beat.
Do you happen to have a picture of before/after of your sidemarkers? I'm interested to see how much brighter the LED's are compared to the incandescent bulbs. Cause like already mentioned, some LED's just aren't bright at all...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,267
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These are the older heat actuated ones:
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Precisely why I was wondering if anyone knew the wires for the turn signal (colour) and what bundle they were in under the dash. My guess is that I'll need to install an external resistor, the same way I did the conversion on my bike.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
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There are also aftermarket drop in flasher units made for LED's, but I'm not sure for what vehicles exactly.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
You guys must be talking about a shunt resistor in parallel with the LED bulbs. I understand the idea, I just think it's a waste to dump current through a resistor when you could just install an electronic flasher that solves the problem the right way, rather than compensating for the needs of an ancient-style flasher.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
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I didn't say anything about retrofit kits. The original post asked for the wire location of said resistor on these trucks, which does not exist.
You guys must be talking about a shunt resistor in parallel with the LED bulbs. I understand the idea, I just think it's a waste to dump current through a resistor when you could just install an electronic flasher that solves the problem the right way, rather than compensating for the needs of an ancient-style flasher.
You guys must be talking about a shunt resistor in parallel with the LED bulbs. I understand the idea, I just think it's a waste to dump current through a resistor when you could just install an electronic flasher that solves the problem the right way, rather than compensating for the needs of an ancient-style flasher.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,238
Likes: 21
From: Northern Illinois
Copied from another post:
Ok here are the actual bulbs that I used after trial and error...
LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
Exterior LEDs:
Side marker lights: WLED-xHP5 (2 Red & 2 Amber)
Front Turn Signal: 1157-x26-CBT (2 Amber)
Rear Brake Lights: 1157-x26-CBT (2 Red)
Reverse Lights: 1156-x26-CBT (2 Cool White)
Load Resistors: RL-650 (4 Total)
For the turn signals, reverse lights, and brake lights I had to shave down the flat part of the factory bulb housing to get the bulbs to slide all the way in and be able to twist. It was easy to do with a dremel tool. If you have aftermarket bulb housings then they should fit fine.
Interior Gauge Cluster LEDs:
High Beam Indicator: WLED-xHP13-T (1 Blue)
Turn Signal Indicators: WLED-xHP13-T (2 Green)
Brake/Seatbelt Warning Lights: WLED-xHP13-T (2 Red)
Actual Cluster Lights: WLED-xHP9-T (2 your color choice) The WLED-xHP13-T, that are brighter, may fit with the removal of the two blue dome tips inside the cluster but I have not verified it. When I originally tried them with the blue dome tips in place they were too long so I ordered the HP9's. I did not know the blue tips could come off...
Wiper/Headlight Bezel: BA9s-xHP9 (1 your color choice) Very tight fit!!! May want to go with something smaller.
Climate Control Bezel: WLED-xHP9-T (1 your color choice)
Courtesy Underdash Lights: 67-x15 (2 your color choice)
Dome Light: RL4410-xHP9 (1 your color choice). Make sure you have this type of bulb in your dome light!
I have not found a good replacement for the ashtray light or glovebox yet. Hope this helps!
LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
Exterior LEDs:
Side marker lights: WLED-xHP5 (2 Red & 2 Amber)
Front Turn Signal: 1157-x26-CBT (2 Amber)
Rear Brake Lights: 1157-x26-CBT (2 Red)
Reverse Lights: 1156-x26-CBT (2 Cool White)
Load Resistors: RL-650 (4 Total)
For the turn signals, reverse lights, and brake lights I had to shave down the flat part of the factory bulb housing to get the bulbs to slide all the way in and be able to twist. It was easy to do with a dremel tool. If you have aftermarket bulb housings then they should fit fine.
Interior Gauge Cluster LEDs:
High Beam Indicator: WLED-xHP13-T (1 Blue)
Turn Signal Indicators: WLED-xHP13-T (2 Green)
Brake/Seatbelt Warning Lights: WLED-xHP13-T (2 Red)
Actual Cluster Lights: WLED-xHP9-T (2 your color choice) The WLED-xHP13-T, that are brighter, may fit with the removal of the two blue dome tips inside the cluster but I have not verified it. When I originally tried them with the blue dome tips in place they were too long so I ordered the HP9's. I did not know the blue tips could come off...
Wiper/Headlight Bezel: BA9s-xHP9 (1 your color choice) Very tight fit!!! May want to go with something smaller.
Climate Control Bezel: WLED-xHP9-T (1 your color choice)
Courtesy Underdash Lights: 67-x15 (2 your color choice)
Dome Light: RL4410-xHP9 (1 your color choice). Make sure you have this type of bulb in your dome light!
I have not found a good replacement for the ashtray light or glovebox yet. Hope this helps!
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,238
Likes: 21
From: Northern Illinois
Jesus... 50 of them? That's crazy lol.
But like you said, 50 for $50, hard to beat.
Do you happen to have a picture of before/after of your sidemarkers? I'm interested to see how much brighter the LED's are compared to the incandescent bulbs. Cause like already mentioned, some LED's just aren't bright at all...
But like you said, 50 for $50, hard to beat.
Do you happen to have a picture of before/after of your sidemarkers? I'm interested to see how much brighter the LED's are compared to the incandescent bulbs. Cause like already mentioned, some LED's just aren't bright at all...
I didn't take any prior pictures, or after for that matter, but I know they are LED and they will last a lot longer than a regular 194 bulb. And they are perfectly bright! It made my Peterbilts dash go from blah to holy chit I can see!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,267
Likes: 5
So if you buy cheap LED's, fine, but I'd probably favor expensive brand name ones for hard to get at places.
Cheap LED modules are usually over-driving the LED's beyond the original spec, and will start to get dim pretty quick.